Am I the first person to go from a T56 to a 4L80E?
10-07-2009, 09:00 PM
#21
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I did this swap about 2 years ago and I was no where near the first to do it with the stock computer, there is a thread in the stickeys telling just about everything you need to do.
10-08-2009, 05:21 AM
#23
Thanks for all the help John via PM
I'm going T56 to 4L80e this winter. I am swapping trans harnesses with an A4 car, and using the stock PCM with the "new found" 4L60e tune to control the 80e. It should be a blast when done.
I will agree, however, that the stickies all point towards 4L60e to T56 for the most part. Few tend to go the other way although I know I will thoroughly enjoy it once done.
Andy
I'm going T56 to 4L80e this winter. I am swapping trans harnesses with an A4 car, and using the stock PCM with the "new found" 4L60e tune to control the 80e. It should be a blast when done.
I will agree, however, that the stickies all point towards 4L60e to T56 for the most part. Few tend to go the other way although I know I will thoroughly enjoy it once done.
Andy
10-22-2009, 05:02 PM
#24
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No, you were not the first....Look up 02402RAMAIR........He did it to a turbo camaro back in 07'......has the play by play with pics..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/southern-...4l80-swap.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/southern-...4l80-swap.html
Last edited by getusum; 10-22-2009 at 05:09 PM. Reason: added link
10-30-2009, 08:14 PM
#27
More swap progress today. 4l80 is pretty much full bolted in . Some tips are switched out the 4l80 supplied by rpm 6 an straight plugs to 6 an 90 degree ones.The back one had been tweaked with longer little tube on it pressed in so will be duplicated that on the 90 degree fitting. It is tight by those fitting so rather than do more messing for clearance the 90s do the job. I did just take a minisledge to clearance for the big plug on the 4l80 drivers side. I will paint it up so it don't rust.
I had to tweak bellhousing by dust cover area for the aps downpipe drivers side and tweak for gate clearance on the passenger side. Minor stuff.
Not sure if using prothane poly mount or stock one. Stock one for some reason was not fitting that great with my 4l80 bmr crossmember. Have to maybe elongate the trans thru bolt slot a bit more. wondering if got the wrong mount but pretty sure didn't.
Got crossover ujoint for now since had shortened strange driveshaft. 4l80 don't need shorter shaft but dana 60 does. Used 1330 to 1350 crossover joint. Getting custom driveshaft over winter.
Dropped starter to get converter bolts on. Pretty sure thats only way.
Tommorrow bolt on converter ,bolt on torque arm,finish running some temp trans cooler lines.Thinking have room for 12 inch double pass cylindrical cooler underneath car by my subframe connectors. Not much room up front of the car.
Have to make plate not sure how thick of material to use to cover tranny tunnel..
did you guys use aluminum or steel.. Assume you have to bolt shifter to it so it shoudl be pretty sturdy.But still needs to be workable. Going to use old rubber piece from the m6 to pattern the new shifter base plate. And is it hard to figure where to put shifter bolt holes? I am using stock shifter. Didn't get **** yet,are camaro and firebird ***** interchangeable ? I like the firebird **** style better than camaro style.
Wiring looks simple except not sure where to get power for that 12 volt red wire that has to be switched?? Looks like they figured you wouild get it near ecu??? but no ecu pin so obviously tap in somwhere else. Its at ecu end should maybe have been at tranny end ?? Where did you guys tie it into???
Hoping the lokar dipstick goes in there without too much trouble have a lot of stuff over in that corner where it goes.
Also can I use 4l60 throttle cable bracket..didn't get a 4l80 bracket with the trans.
And appreciate if anyone has the wiring diagram for the shifter switch for neutral safety and backup lights.
So thought read some guys had problem with speed density and auto trans? Can't see why they would..unless maf affects shifting somehow?? Hopefully not going to have problems and also wondering about speedo as posted above. Will it work with just normal settings on hptuners or do I need to put in wierd values. Figure calibration would still be easy enough since use my gps to check speed.Think it would be very accurate?
Those top bolts on bellhousing were serious bitches! Used long extensions and universals and not sure what else my buddy/mechanic did that stuff for me. We are doing this entire swap in garage on safety jacks with floor jacks. We bolted on a plate to one low profile floor jack and that has worked out good. Tranny jack attachement wouldn't fit unless really put the car up. We did all this swap with it about 23 inches think it was just enough to get trans under. Then used a couple of floor jacks to get it into place.
We also shortened bolts from t56 bellhousing they were too long unless mixed up bolts from when gave buddy my t56. Thought gave him front bellhousing bolts not the ones that went into block but not sure since we did cut those bellhousing ones down a bit.
Well think swap should be done in a couple days.
I had to tweak bellhousing by dust cover area for the aps downpipe drivers side and tweak for gate clearance on the passenger side. Minor stuff.
Not sure if using prothane poly mount or stock one. Stock one for some reason was not fitting that great with my 4l80 bmr crossmember. Have to maybe elongate the trans thru bolt slot a bit more. wondering if got the wrong mount but pretty sure didn't.
Got crossover ujoint for now since had shortened strange driveshaft. 4l80 don't need shorter shaft but dana 60 does. Used 1330 to 1350 crossover joint. Getting custom driveshaft over winter.
Dropped starter to get converter bolts on. Pretty sure thats only way.
Tommorrow bolt on converter ,bolt on torque arm,finish running some temp trans cooler lines.Thinking have room for 12 inch double pass cylindrical cooler underneath car by my subframe connectors. Not much room up front of the car.
Have to make plate not sure how thick of material to use to cover tranny tunnel..
did you guys use aluminum or steel.. Assume you have to bolt shifter to it so it shoudl be pretty sturdy.But still needs to be workable. Going to use old rubber piece from the m6 to pattern the new shifter base plate. And is it hard to figure where to put shifter bolt holes? I am using stock shifter. Didn't get **** yet,are camaro and firebird ***** interchangeable ? I like the firebird **** style better than camaro style.
Wiring looks simple except not sure where to get power for that 12 volt red wire that has to be switched?? Looks like they figured you wouild get it near ecu??? but no ecu pin so obviously tap in somwhere else. Its at ecu end should maybe have been at tranny end ?? Where did you guys tie it into???
Hoping the lokar dipstick goes in there without too much trouble have a lot of stuff over in that corner where it goes.
Also can I use 4l60 throttle cable bracket..didn't get a 4l80 bracket with the trans.
And appreciate if anyone has the wiring diagram for the shifter switch for neutral safety and backup lights.
So thought read some guys had problem with speed density and auto trans? Can't see why they would..unless maf affects shifting somehow?? Hopefully not going to have problems and also wondering about speedo as posted above. Will it work with just normal settings on hptuners or do I need to put in wierd values. Figure calibration would still be easy enough since use my gps to check speed.Think it would be very accurate?
Those top bolts on bellhousing were serious bitches! Used long extensions and universals and not sure what else my buddy/mechanic did that stuff for me. We are doing this entire swap in garage on safety jacks with floor jacks. We bolted on a plate to one low profile floor jack and that has worked out good. Tranny jack attachement wouldn't fit unless really put the car up. We did all this swap with it about 23 inches think it was just enough to get trans under. Then used a couple of floor jacks to get it into place.
We also shortened bolts from t56 bellhousing they were too long unless mixed up bolts from when gave buddy my t56. Thought gave him front bellhousing bolts not the ones that went into block but not sure since we did cut those bellhousing ones down a bit.
Well think swap should be done in a couple days.
11-01-2009, 08:47 AM
#28
Guys looking for 12 volt switched source on the ecu to tap into or switched 12 volt source near the ecu.?? Where did all you guys run your 12 volt switched source for your lsxtune conversion harness. Not sure if the speartech harness requires a switched source like the lsxtune one does.
11-01-2009, 11:18 AM
#29
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Guys looking for 12 volt switched source on the ecu to tap into or switched 12 volt source near the ecu.?? Where did all you guys run your 12 volt switched source for your lsxtune conversion harness. Not sure if the speartech harness requires a switched source like the lsxtune one does.
11-01-2009, 10:47 PM
#31
Ok just about finished now. Still a few things to figure out and reading all this still is confusing me a bit. Is anyone running a dust shield and did you run a 4l80 shield??
Anyone try one of those tci plastic universal tranny dust covers..they don't mention working on the 4l80 though.
How did you wire up the neutral safety and the back up lights to the stock 4l60 shifter neutral safety /back up switch. That switch has six wires. I understand you get two from think shifter pedal and two from old t56 wiring harness but do you have to use those other two terminals .I got pin codes for that switch but still not that clear.
If have 4 wires and six terminals either some don't get used or have to find some way to run whatever is required to them. Or need to get truck type switch that one looks to only have four wires why the heck does the 4l60 stocker have six pins???
Also anyone use shiftlock solenoid and if so how do you wire that up . I would like shiftlock of possible to work .Anyone run the park lock cable? ,are the manual cars still set up to run them by just adding the cable or would I have to get another steering column or something to make that work. I just want it all to work like stock auto..
Have to have neutral safety for track runs but it would be nice to have backup lights,
shiftlock and park lock for safety and antitheft reasons. The first two of course are doable.The last two not sure. Not much mention of it in the threads.
Also do you just bolt down the stock shifter to plate you make and guess where you want to put it?. What existing holes work for stock shifter..the back holes look same but the height is all wrong it looks like. Think read one guy bolted it to some existing holes maybe just two and used the rubber stock six speed trans tunnel cover but that don't look like it would be very solid and think shifter should be mounted solidly.
And what shift lever did you guys use.. a 4l80 one? Anyone know if you can get that separate and what is part number for it? My 4l80 didn't come with shifter lever or dust cover..I am so close to end of this swap can taste it.
Anyone try one of those tci plastic universal tranny dust covers..they don't mention working on the 4l80 though.
How did you wire up the neutral safety and the back up lights to the stock 4l60 shifter neutral safety /back up switch. That switch has six wires. I understand you get two from think shifter pedal and two from old t56 wiring harness but do you have to use those other two terminals .I got pin codes for that switch but still not that clear.
If have 4 wires and six terminals either some don't get used or have to find some way to run whatever is required to them. Or need to get truck type switch that one looks to only have four wires why the heck does the 4l60 stocker have six pins???
Also anyone use shiftlock solenoid and if so how do you wire that up . I would like shiftlock of possible to work .Anyone run the park lock cable? ,are the manual cars still set up to run them by just adding the cable or would I have to get another steering column or something to make that work. I just want it all to work like stock auto..
Have to have neutral safety for track runs but it would be nice to have backup lights,
shiftlock and park lock for safety and antitheft reasons. The first two of course are doable.The last two not sure. Not much mention of it in the threads.
Also do you just bolt down the stock shifter to plate you make and guess where you want to put it?. What existing holes work for stock shifter..the back holes look same but the height is all wrong it looks like. Think read one guy bolted it to some existing holes maybe just two and used the rubber stock six speed trans tunnel cover but that don't look like it would be very solid and think shifter should be mounted solidly.
And what shift lever did you guys use.. a 4l80 one? Anyone know if you can get that separate and what is part number for it? My 4l80 didn't come with shifter lever or dust cover..I am so close to end of this swap can taste it.
11-23-2009, 12:54 PM
#32
Update. I have neutral safety and reverse lights working. They were just taking the existing connectors on the t56 for these and cutting wires and splicing them into wires from the shifter pnp. the E and F are neutral safety and C and D are reverse lights.
A and B are only think necessary to tell computer what gear its in. But the car shifts fine without these connected.I ran a wire to pin 34 pnp on blue connector at ecu and going to see if can get that to work think you would just ground A connector .
Also I can get the shiftlock solenoid to work by grounding one wire from it and there is green white wire that ran to brake switch and put in there like the auto cars have. But had to put power into another empty space on the brake switch then the shiftlock works properly but a bit worried if it needed to have a relay or something on it. Think this stuff runs thru a relay on the auto cars but not sure what exactlyt his relay does.
When tested the shiftlock was working fine the way I had it hooked up to just brake and ground with switched power going thru it. Seems it don't have to go thru the pnp switch at all like think this other write up had on these swap. But that other guy used 4l60 harness wherease I just used the lsx tune one.
A and B are only think necessary to tell computer what gear its in. But the car shifts fine without these connected.I ran a wire to pin 34 pnp on blue connector at ecu and going to see if can get that to work think you would just ground A connector .
Also I can get the shiftlock solenoid to work by grounding one wire from it and there is green white wire that ran to brake switch and put in there like the auto cars have. But had to put power into another empty space on the brake switch then the shiftlock works properly but a bit worried if it needed to have a relay or something on it. Think this stuff runs thru a relay on the auto cars but not sure what exactlyt his relay does.
When tested the shiftlock was working fine the way I had it hooked up to just brake and ground with switched power going thru it. Seems it don't have to go thru the pnp switch at all like think this other write up had on these swap. But that other guy used 4l60 harness wherease I just used the lsx tune one.
11-23-2009, 09:38 PM
#33
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Also do you just bolt down the stock shifter to plate you make and guess where you want to put it?. What existing holes work for stock shifter..the back holes look same but the height is all wrong it looks like. Think read one guy bolted it to some existing holes maybe just two and used the rubber stock six speed trans tunnel cover but that don't look like it would be very solid and think shifter should be mounted solidly.
And what shift lever did you guys use.. a 4l80 one? Anyone know if you can get that separate and what is part number for it? My 4l80 didn't come with shifter lever or dust cover..I am so close to end of this swap can taste it.
11-25-2009, 09:01 AM
#34
Ok working on shiftlock and parkcable still.
Anyone know if can simply put in that parkcable into manual car. I bought park cable do I have to buy any additional piece to go into steering column...?
On the shiftlock think have wiring figured out. Looks like have to run some power to brake pedal switch. there are two empty holes on the m6 switch. So one can be power and the other is green white wire which goes into shiftlock solenoid.
Then other wire from solenoid looks to tie into wire that goes into pnp switch connector b.orange black wire on auto car. That wire I had to run from pin 34 on ecu blue connector.
Looks like have to ground connector a on pnp connector,its black white wire on auto cars and looks like need to use a diode in line from shift solenoid to the wire that goes into connector b. looks like 1 amp diode? I found some wiring diagrams and will post them if figure out how.
So with luck will get the shiftlock working like stock auto car.
I still am not sure why the shiftlock wiring has to go into the pnp switch . I got it to work by simply running power to the brake pedal, hooking up the green white to the brake pedal and grounding the other wire on the shift solenoid. Not sure why can't just do this..used switched power. Not sure why it goes thru the pnp switch at all?
As said any electrical geniuses want to give some opinions please do so.
Anyone know if can simply put in that parkcable into manual car. I bought park cable do I have to buy any additional piece to go into steering column...?
On the shiftlock think have wiring figured out. Looks like have to run some power to brake pedal switch. there are two empty holes on the m6 switch. So one can be power and the other is green white wire which goes into shiftlock solenoid.
Then other wire from solenoid looks to tie into wire that goes into pnp switch connector b.orange black wire on auto car. That wire I had to run from pin 34 on ecu blue connector.
Looks like have to ground connector a on pnp connector,its black white wire on auto cars and looks like need to use a diode in line from shift solenoid to the wire that goes into connector b. looks like 1 amp diode? I found some wiring diagrams and will post them if figure out how.
So with luck will get the shiftlock working like stock auto car.
I still am not sure why the shiftlock wiring has to go into the pnp switch . I got it to work by simply running power to the brake pedal, hooking up the green white to the brake pedal and grounding the other wire on the shift solenoid. Not sure why can't just do this..used switched power. Not sure why it goes thru the pnp switch at all?
As said any electrical geniuses want to give some opinions please do so.
04-30-2011, 04:54 AM
#35
Guys what is "neutral safety"?
Also, slow67 wrote "the PNP (Park/Neutral Position switch located on the shifter) switch isn't really required either." - what does this do, and IS IT required?
How do you ensure that car won't go into reverse? My tracks require that something blocks accidental reverse engagement
Also, slow67 wrote "the PNP (Park/Neutral Position switch located on the shifter) switch isn't really required either." - what does this do, and IS IT required?
How do you ensure that car won't go into reverse? My tracks require that something blocks accidental reverse engagement
05-02-2011, 10:55 AM
#36
Guys what is "neutral safety"?
Also, slow67 wrote "the PNP (Park/Neutral Position switch located on the shifter) switch isn't really required either." - what does this do, and IS IT required?
How do you ensure that car won't go into reverse? My tracks require that something blocks accidental reverse engagement
Also, slow67 wrote "the PNP (Park/Neutral Position switch located on the shifter) switch isn't really required either." - what does this do, and IS IT required?
How do you ensure that car won't go into reverse? My tracks require that something blocks accidental reverse engagement
PNP tells the PCM if its in gear or neutral, as it uses different Idle airflow tables.
Reverse lockout keeps you from accidentally hitting reverse.
05-04-2011, 01:51 PM
#38
3rd switch is the reverse lights (12V).
Reverse is locked out with the button on the ****.
