Converter seat problem. NEED HELP FAST PLEASE
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From: Thomasboro, ILL
Converter seat problem. NEED HELP FAST PLEASE I put the converter in just as told on here, listened to all the steps, and everything. Installed the trany, and when i went to turn the motor to allign the converter bolts the motor wouldnt spin the converter. It felt like it was hitting something. I after messing with it for a few minutes it started turning fine, and i got all the bolts in. Didnt feel anything hitting so i fired the car up. ran great, and everything. Went to put it into gear and nothing. Cant get it into any gear. All feels like neutral. I checked the gears to see if it would roll. Park works like park, but every other gear R N, 3, 2, 1 all feel like nuetral. Not sure if this helps to diagnose the problem or not. What should i do????? I havent checked to make sure the trany has pressure or not. That the first thing i was going to try.
One more thing: The converter was about 1/2" back from the flywheel when I installed it. That gave me reason to believe that it was seated. I had to suck in the converter to bolt it up. If it wasnt seated wouldnt it not be that far back? Any info is appreciated guys. Thanks
One more thing: The converter was about 1/2" back from the flywheel when I installed it. That gave me reason to believe that it was seated. I had to suck in the converter to bolt it up. If it wasnt seated wouldnt it not be that far back? Any info is appreciated guys. Thanks
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right on. How can it not be seated yet need to get sucked in to seat against the flywheel? I hate to even say this, but is it possible to install the flywheel backwards. I did flywheel trany install like december, and cant remember????
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o hells. Well I guess i can hope that it didnt hurt anything. I never heard a bad sound, or anything bad. Converter spun free, and easy the whole time. So is it possible that nothing is messed up? I guess I know what im doing on saturday......
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Does the car look like i would be rolling with a stock stall? It wouldnt make any sense that i hurt sopmething if it didnt make any noise. Those stall stafts are strong, and im hoping that i just pulled it would of the pump when it seated to the flywheel.
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Well I fidured out the problem. The converter didnt seat the first time i tryed to put it in, and as i started to put all the bolts in noticed it was not seated. So i removed it. When i was snugging up bolts apparently the pump teeth got pushed back enough to be screwed up. So once the converter WAS seated all the way it striped the teeth on the pump. It also scared up the converter end a little.
So I took a buddys transmission he had laying around and installed the same converter and flywheel. Making sure it was seated i installed it. Started fine, ran great. I drove it about a 1/2 mile and lost pressure in the tranny. Im positive that the fluid level is correct, and everything. I am assuming that the flywheels is bent. Thats just about all it could be.
My plan is to send the trany to get repaired, fix the scared up end of the yank converter, and purchase a new flywheel. I am thinking this should solve my problem. Sound like a good plan?????
So I took a buddys transmission he had laying around and installed the same converter and flywheel. Making sure it was seated i installed it. Started fine, ran great. I drove it about a 1/2 mile and lost pressure in the tranny. Im positive that the fluid level is correct, and everything. I am assuming that the flywheels is bent. Thats just about all it could be.
My plan is to send the trany to get repaired, fix the scared up end of the yank converter, and purchase a new flywheel. I am thinking this should solve my problem. Sound like a good plan?????
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when the converter is all the way back into the transmission and the bell bolts are in you should measure the gap between the pad on the flywheel and the mounting pad on the converter.If this distance is over .125 then you need to place a shim inbtween the conveter and flexplate.(flat washer).You only want to pull your converter out of the pump between .090 and .150.If you pull it out to far trhen the end of the converter that drives the pump will barely engage the pump rotor and therefore causing the rotor to break.Once this happens she won't move a inch.
Greg
Greg
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
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FTI Converter build sheet
FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet
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From: Thomasboro, ILL
when the converter is all the way back into the transmission and the bell bolts are in you should measure the gap between the pad on the flywheel and the mounting pad on the converter.If this distance is over .125 then you need to place a shim inbtween the conveter and flexplate.(flat washer).You only want to pull your converter out of the pump between .090 and .150.If you pull it out to far trhen the end of the converter that drives the pump will barely engage the pump rotor and therefore causing the rotor to break.Once this happens she won't move a inch.
Greg
Greg