stall+long drive
i'd like to get some opinions here...
i am currently considering purchasing a member's car, but it is 8 hours away. how good do stalled cars do on the interstate? this particular is running a vig 3200 with 2 B&M tranny coolers...
anyone ever done it? experiences? things to be worried besides overheating? what kind of gas mileage should i expect (basic boltons+stall)?
thanks!
i am currently considering purchasing a member's car, but it is 8 hours away. how good do stalled cars do on the interstate? this particular is running a vig 3200 with 2 B&M tranny coolers...
anyone ever done it? experiences? things to be worried besides overheating? what kind of gas mileage should i expect (basic boltons+stall)?
thanks!
my car is very tame on the highway. gas mileage is less than desirable, but i'm used to 6 speed cars. the first time you launch with that stall though, you'll remember why you bought it.
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if the car is running great, then there shouldnt be any problems. i drove my cammed and vig 3200 stalled car 1100 with no problems at all. this is also after getting the tranny built.
I just took a 8hr trip to Florida in the TA without a good tune and had no problems So you should be good to go. My temp ran between 160 to 175 most of the time. I think I was getting about 21 to 22 mpg but I get a lead foot and going 10 to 15 over the limit
The converter makes more heat when it is unlocked and under substantial throttle, a trans temp gauge is not really required for street use at all, especially if it has 2 coolers.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
i drove from deep south carolina to northern ky about 8hours little more(trip home), car had a wild camshaft and a 4000 vig stall, and had absolutely no problems. got 24 mpg too ( car still has 2.73s)
being that he is buying a car he knows nothing about other than what the owner told him it would still be a good idea to have one...but thats just me i have been lied to before and i tend to over do things lol
when switching to a diff converter, the right way is to have it built for the cars specs-having said that, does he know if it has a lockup, if it does, no problem-the only reason i went to a 4 sp auto was to get a lockup clutch, but if the converter is on the tight side, the 4 sp wouldnt be to bad w/o a lockup
i did a lot of testing with an old switch/pitch 400, cams, rears, etc and the effects on the same converter-higher neum. rear, less stall, wilder cam, more stall needed, etc-so the importance of having the correct converter was important
when i switch out my 400 for a borrowed trans/converter(the converter was a close match to my cars specs, it went from 11.1 to 10.6, all gaines in the 1/8 mile, but it RPM'ed higher driving around, and with the flowmasters, that gets old, lol
with the 4l80e and lockup, i have my high stall FTI converter and a lockup to boot, so i have it all now, lol
65 MPH and 2K RPM, and tons of power down low
i did a lot of testing with an old switch/pitch 400, cams, rears, etc and the effects on the same converter-higher neum. rear, less stall, wilder cam, more stall needed, etc-so the importance of having the correct converter was important
when i switch out my 400 for a borrowed trans/converter(the converter was a close match to my cars specs, it went from 11.1 to 10.6, all gaines in the 1/8 mile, but it RPM'ed higher driving around, and with the flowmasters, that gets old, lol
with the 4l80e and lockup, i have my high stall FTI converter and a lockup to boot, so i have it all now, lol
65 MPH and 2K RPM, and tons of power down low
i had the VIG 3200. It pretty much drives like a stock car until you floor it. I took it on the highway manytimes and drove the same as a stock trans did. Unless of course i was playing around with the ricers. lol
you have nothing to worry about. On the highway the converter should be locked meaning it will not be any different than a locked stock A4
you have nothing to worry about. On the highway the converter should be locked meaning it will not be any different than a locked stock A4


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