I posted this a while back but I didn't post it here and the only response I had was "Your tranny is slipping and on it's way out, get a new one." I'm more of an engine mechanic myself, and not a very good one at that.

Ok, so when I'm going down the highway and floor it, no matter what gear I'm in, it goes up to the redline and bounces off repeatedly making a "TIC TIC TIC TIC TIC" sound. I have to let off for a few and put back on to actually make it shift to the next gear. It shifts fine when just driving it around town, and usually shifts fine as long as you're shifting under 5k RPMS. It just refuses to shift on WOT. The fluids are fine, not burnt or anything. I've heard that if I service it, it will just prolong the problem. Do any of you tranny people out there have any advice other than shelling out 800 I can use on new headers and stuff on a new tranny?

Thanks,
Stephen

 

Do you have a stall in your ride? If so, it could cause the imfamous P0751 code and/ or P0502 code that an Autozone scanner won't pick up. These codes can cause your tranny not to shift at wot.

If you're still on a stock converter, then I don't know what your issue is. The responses you were getting might be correct.

 

Well, my parents work at an automotive shop and we have a scan tool, but I'm definitely not the first person to own this car. It's a z28 and I bought it with a ram air hood on it :/

I don't know if someone could have deleted the code or what. I might have to go back and ask. I'm pretty sure I don't have a stall. It usually idles around 900 in park and 1500 or so in drive.

 

Is there any easy way of checking to see if I have a stall without dropping the tranny?

 

Should be easy to tell if you have a stall by how the gas pedal feels, or by what rpms it spins the tires at when doing a brake stand. stock stall will spin street tires around 1300-1500rpm's if you can footbrake it to anything over 2000rpm's without the tires spinning you have a aftermarket stall for sure...

 

Like 01ws666 said. Also, your rpms will be higher from a bigger stall when driving around until it locks up.

Check to see if you have any codes first. I had a similar problem (not shifting at wot) and had my tuner turn off P0751 and/or P0757. I was also getting a P0502 code (VSS low input), so I replaced my vehicle speed sensor on the tranny. An aftermarket stall can trigger the P0751/757 codes, but I'm uncertain on the p0502. Both codes will cause your car not to shift.

 

The car isn't showing any codes. No SES light anyways, a security light, but that's commong.

 

Well if you have no codes and the stalls stock that would point to a failing trans. 800 for a trans is awfully cheap particularly if its going to be a performance car. And remember the trans needs at least the detail as the engine since no matter what you do all the power you make with your engine the trans has got to handle .

 

The SES light doesn't have to be on to trigger codes.

 

I appreciate all the help guys. I'll probably run the codes tomorrow to see what's coming up. 800 is my price. I get sweet deals from parts stores around here because my parents do a lot of business with them. When my ls1 blew, it was only 1k for a brand new one to drop in there. Honestly though, if I get a new tranny I'm just gonna get a shift kit for it and stick with that until I do my H/C and maybe a higher stall.

By the way, almost positive it's the stock converter.

 

Well, it looks like I'll be saving up for a new transmission. Any ideas on what path to take?

 

Or in other words, should I stick with a 4l60e or go to 4l80e? To get the most out of my transmission and getting my power to the ground, what all should I do to a new one once I get it? I know of putting in a shift kit, but what else? Transmission Cooler, etc.

 

Talk to Performabuilt or FLT. Both are sponsors with reasonable prices and they'll tell you what you need.

 

Any aftermarket tuning on this car? If so, check your part throttle and full throttle shift points and mph in the transmission section. I've learned if these don't line up it causes the car to be confused and not know when to shift. This just happened to me.

Otherwise, something is wrong within the unit itself. I'd go with a 4L (either one) if you can find someone really good to build one with the best quality parts for your application. (Street or strip does matter.)

Good luck with it all!

 

I wish I knew if there was an aftermarket tuning. Like I said, I got it used with an SS hood, the transmission had a green tag hanging on it by a lead wire with numbers on it(long gone tag, wish I kept it)and the guy said he had some money in it. The engine went due to an oil leak that we couldn't find until it was too late, so we got a 2000(same year) LS1 longblock to put in. Since, I've added the bellows and lid, headlights with halos wired to the parking lights, tail lights that I even don't like but were all I could afford that semester because my stock ones were cracked and letting water in. I've replaced to o2 sensors and deleted the o2 codes a few times before I finally got them all replaced. The old engine had several scratches on it where it looked like the flex plate had broken loose and did a number. The transmission pan has a slight dent in it, but it's not major. Almost like a dimple.

By the way, I love your car. I looked all over your page. Your last journal entry hit a soft spot. My parents own an automotive shop(several soon to be all over the state)and I'm probably gonna get a couple later in life(20 and in college now). I plan on at least making one specifically a performance shop and this is basically how I feel about it too. My parents run a decent shop, so plenty of love there. How much have you invested into your car?

If my transmission is on its way out, I'm going to order a built 4l60e and hopefully get my parents to go halfway on it for Christmas. It probably needs a new one anyways, or at least a built one.

 

Another place in the tune may not be matching up: gear and tire size calculation. Example: If you run a 28" tire and it somehow pulled a 31" tire based on your gear size, this will cause it to not shift correctly as the computer is sensing that the wheel is smaller than what the ECM is saying. It's a little tough since you're not sure what's all done to your car.

Cool deal on the auto shop your family has going! That's a great business if you can build some good clientele. We have a mobile auto business that has gained success through the years! That's only my second job. I have too much invested in my car to stomach! I've learned a great deal from not following the pack and taking my own recommendations with my set-up. Everyone's combo is not going to work "the best".

Get that trans checked out soon and get that beloved car back running again!

 

Honestly I'd check the tune before you write it off as a slipping tranny. Too bad you don't have a copy of HPTuners or anything like that.

 

Heh, the car still runs. It's my daily driver. It just doesn't do so great on WOT...in fact, it just doesn't WOT for the reasons mentioned. The car itself is a beast and after everything I've run it against(Mustang GTs of all year models, Chevelle 454, A few T/As, GTOs)the only thing I've lost against, sadly yet proudly at the same time, was a supercharged small Silverado. At 500hp though, I was happy he won. I've never taken my car to the track. Can't say I know if anyone else has.

 

One last thing about the car that I just remembered is that the MAF was descreened. I don't know if this would have affected it. Also of note is that the tranny didn't start doing this until about...10 months ago. Had the car almost two years. Replaced the engine after 6 months.

How do I check my tuning to see if I have stock? We have a scan tool that does OBII and all that jazz. Thanks again.

 

Oh ****...The car also had a flowmaster on it when I bought it. I cut it completely off right where the I pipe is welded to the axle. Could this contribute?