I have a VIG 3200 right now.

Whats better and whats the deal with the str thing?

Thanks

 

Yank TP-4400 is the best "from a roll" converter I've ever seen for a N/A LS1 car.

 

Are you still planning to spray a 300 shot on top of your monster?

For NA, A YTP 4000 would be perfect for you. Stall to around 4200 - 4400 behind your big motor and give high efficency and long shift extension, but it is not going to absorb a 300 shot. On the spray a PYE 3600 would do the trick or possibly a SS3600e or SS3800e with a lock-up switch.

STR = Stall Torque Ratio. Ratio of torque multiplication at the instant you leave the line assuming you have brought your engine rpm up to the converter's stall speed. A high STR is very helpful in drag racing but is less of an issue for you since your main focus is racing from a roll.

 

Yes, the 300 shot is a definite. But it won't go in for a couple months after I get the car back. Would restalling my Vig 3200 to a 3600 be the same as the PYE 3600 "from a roll".

Whats with the lock-up switch? How do I controll it and when?
Is there any way to set this thing up so its as good as an M6 from a roll?

 

Hey Quickin, if u want this car to be a "from a roll" car so bad, why don't you just swap over to an M6? If it's not a drag car, and u don't care about getting the best possible time at the track and consistency at the track, just swap it to a built 6-speed, you've done so much already, what's one more thing, if that's what will make you happy? Or do you not know how to drive stick? See, my car is a drag car, so I swapped out my 6-speed for a Turbo 400, but one day down the line, I would love to get another f-body or 'vette w/ a 6-speed and make it a cruising and handling car, so I have one of each, drag car and cruiser! I just hope that when I do that one day, I have better luck with clutches than I did with this one! Stupid *** rev-lok kept breaking on me, but it's probably my stupidity for believing George at McLeod that it was a fluke (even though it had happened to friends of mine too) and wouldn't happen again and installing the new one's he sent me each time, should've just gone with another clutch, but didn't really wanna waste the money when I had already bought an aftermarket clutch that is supposed to be good and not break after 3 weeks! Ehh, you live, you learn, next time, i'll know better! But anyways, just do the swap man!

 

Even with a locked converter, a 4L60e eats about 3% more power than a M6 so you you will never be even from that standpoint.

Locking the converter, will eliminate the converter loss. You do it by wiring a simple switch or by setting it up in your tranny control tables so that any time you go above X mph at WOT, it locks up.

A standard Vig 3600 will not survive under the conditions you are looking at. The multidisk Vig 3600 might have a chance when equipped with an upgraded clutch. Call Terry at PI and discuss your situation if you want to stay with a vig.

 

I can drive an M6 quite well, I just like the ease and convienience of the auto. Traffic with a M6 just burns me up.
I think I'll have the power to overcome the difference between the auto & the M6 from a roll, so I'm just trying to figure out which converter is the best.

 

Is the PYE 3600 that much stronger than the VIG 3200?

 

Yes. It is built for FI.

If you decide to buy one, order direct from Yank and be sure Mike understands your power and whether you plan to lock it up under the spray.

 

Thanks for the info man, I'll look into that converter since my motor is coming out. Also, since my tranny is leaking now and not shifting properly, it has to get sent back to FLP. Good thing Chuck is DAMN GOOD guy.

Whats next, my rear-end gonna fall out.

 

TP4400

 

I thought loose converters weren't good for HWY rolls

Is it true or what?

 

This converter is probally one of the best if not the best converter from a roll. Looseness does not really effect preformance just driveability. A good set of gears could fix the looseness in a heartbeat.Good Luck

Wes

 

I'd hate to really be loose around town though. I had a VIG 3600 that was just awesome for around town, how do the two compare?

And why is the TP4400 so good for roll races? Whats the difference between that and the PYE3600?

I just want to get as close to an M6 as possible with my auto.

Thanks.

 

Please read the guys sig and understand his set-up before making recommendations. .................................................. ................................................

A YTP 4400 is a great converter on a 346" NA motor. He has a 436" motor with a big shot of spray being added. THe YTP 4400 would be a disaster on his set-up.

 

sounds like you shouldnt be daily driving your race car.

 

Its far from a race car, the thing is set up for the street not the strip. Suspension is tight, its full weight and lowered. I just want a monster car for the street so I got what I thought were pretty damn good parts that should last forever in a street car. (rear-end, tranny, suspension, nice brakes and a kick-*** motor to run the show).

I never once raced this thing at a track, only 3 races from a 50 roll (a hell-of-allot less stressful than all out launches from a dig). And one from a dig where I walked it out very slowly on regular radials with a 250 lb passenger (and was dead even with a consistant 11.20 ET Camaro on spray) I would think my huge friend and a cheezy launch cost me a 1/2 second.

I just have some horrible luck, the car has been driven like a Ford Taurus for 99% of the time I've had it: my converter came apart at a steady 40 mph
My tranny isn't shifting right and now it just started leaking.
The rings, well, probably my fault ultimately, but I didn't know anything was wrong, lack of experience and knowledge maybe.

What gives? Besides my parts?