Calling all AUTOS! *LS1 A4 Newbie insite*
05-09-2010, 12:47 AM
#21
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Baby 224 cam, Texas speed LS6 heads, full boltons.
423+rwhp 363rwtq unlocked (mustang dyno #s, limited to 6300rpm cause of belt throwing issues)
Vig 3200, Locally Built 4L60E. (to handle 600hp)
Needs to be in second gear for sure if ur thinking about getting on it. First gear is just like poping it into neutal,,, rev,,,, limiter,,, no traction what so ever on 285 nitto street tires. Thinking about going 295 bfg dr's next.
423+rwhp 363rwtq unlocked (mustang dyno #s, limited to 6300rpm cause of belt throwing issues)
Vig 3200, Locally Built 4L60E. (to handle 600hp)
Needs to be in second gear for sure if ur thinking about getting on it. First gear is just like poping it into neutal,,, rev,,,, limiter,,, no traction what so ever on 285 nitto street tires. Thinking about going 295 bfg dr's next.
Last edited by blakern; 05-09-2010 at 01:11 AM.
05-11-2010, 03:38 PM
#23
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definatly lose some mpg in city, depending on how many times you have to come to a complete stop. But on the highway it shouldnt be effected at all. I pull 25mpg @ 80mph on interstate with my 3200 stall.
05-12-2010, 11:08 PM
#24
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City driving will suffer somewhat depending on your driving but highway driving will be the same or slight increase. once a converter locks up it will be just like stock. Most aftermarket converters are smaller dia so it is less driveline weight which negates some of the mileage loss.
05-13-2010, 07:31 AM
#25
I have mine setup with a dual tranny tune, very aggersive performance mode and very conservative normal tune with my converter set to lock up at 35mph. With my 3,800 stall I lost about 2-3 mpg city and no change on the highway
05-30-2010, 01:39 PM
#26
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05-30-2010, 01:41 PM
#27
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City driving will suffer somewhat depending on your driving but highway driving will be the same or slight increase. once a converter locks up it will be just like stock. Most aftermarket converters are smaller dia so it is less driveline weight which negates some of the mileage loss.
06-03-2010, 08:06 AM
#28
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Not many mods done so far. Planning on more as money allows.
SLP lid & bellows
Pacesetter LTs'
Pacesetter OR-Y
SLP LMII
Tuned by RPM Motorsports
SLP lid & bellows
Pacesetter LTs'
Pacesetter OR-Y
SLP LMII
Tuned by RPM Motorsports
06-29-2010, 10:02 AM
#29
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What convertor (manufacturer and stall) do you recommend for an 01 ss with all the bolt ons and a cam (don't know specs, it's dads car and I am trying to help him make it quicker). The car is an A4 with 3:23 gears. He is running NTo5r drag radials and it is bogging badly off the line and cannot get below a 2.00 60 ft. time in the heat.
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
06-30-2010, 02:31 PM
#31
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Mark21742, thanks for your reply and pointing out that the car would need to be retuned. What will happen if it is not immediately retuned for the convertor and what manufacturer seems to have the best product?
07-01-2010, 04:35 AM
#32
I'd recomend a Yank convertor...they run about $800, but are built great and last where some of the cheaper ones don't. At the same time or before I'd recomend a set of comp 918 valve springs if he is still running stockers since it will rev so much quicker (do not need a tune for the spring swap).
Also anytime you add a convertor you NEED to get a tranny cooler...honestly our cars needed a larger tranny cooler when they came from the factory (goto the RV/towing section in your local autoparts and get a 15,000+ GVW cooler.
Without a tune with a higher stall the car will bounce off the rev limiter and not want to shift when its supposed to during wide open throttle but can be driven.
When he gets the tune have the tuner lower or remove the torque management for even more of a power gain.
Hope I helped!
Also anytime you add a convertor you NEED to get a tranny cooler...honestly our cars needed a larger tranny cooler when they came from the factory (goto the RV/towing section in your local autoparts and get a 15,000+ GVW cooler.
Without a tune with a higher stall the car will bounce off the rev limiter and not want to shift when its supposed to during wide open throttle but can be driven.
When he gets the tune have the tuner lower or remove the torque management for even more of a power gain.
Hope I helped!
07-01-2010, 03:41 PM
#33
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Great information Mark21742, I really appreciate all the help.
He replaced the valve springs with ls6 spring when he did the cam. He also sent the PCM to Frost for a tune. It runs really well, but now that he has put the Nitto NT05R tires on it dead hooks and bogs, hence the research on a stall convertor. Are we overlooking any simple tricks to get a good 60 ft??
Thanks
He replaced the valve springs with ls6 spring when he did the cam. He also sent the PCM to Frost for a tune. It runs really well, but now that he has put the Nitto NT05R tires on it dead hooks and bogs, hence the research on a stall convertor. Are we overlooking any simple tricks to get a good 60 ft??
Thanks
07-02-2010, 11:26 AM
#34
Lower control arm relocation brackets will really help him and with the stall and good tires he should start looking for a 12 bolt or 9" rear to replace the 10 bolt when it blows apart
07-15-2010, 12:10 PM
#35
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Hey guys, I'm just getting started. I have an '01 T/A with SLP cold air and lid and K&N filter. I have have an electric cutout on the way. So I have done very little to my car. I have a factory A4 and a factory 2.73 rear end. Needless to say... My launch is pitiful at best! This is my daily driver. Where should I start?
07-15-2010, 02:38 PM
#36
Hey Supermac,
1st thing you want to do is a large tranny cooler.
Then stall and tune, if your not planing on heads and cam, I'd look at arout a 3,000-3,500 stall...but if your looking to drop a cam in in the future I'd look for closer to a 4,000 rpm stall.
I also preach that valve spring upgrade is manditory for even just a higher stall because of how much quicker it will rev.
You should save up some money for when the rear blows apart...but I'd keep the stock rear in it till it does go
1st thing you want to do is a large tranny cooler.
Then stall and tune, if your not planing on heads and cam, I'd look at arout a 3,000-3,500 stall...but if your looking to drop a cam in in the future I'd look for closer to a 4,000 rpm stall.
I also preach that valve spring upgrade is manditory for even just a higher stall because of how much quicker it will rev.
You should save up some money for when the rear blows apart...but I'd keep the stock rear in it till it does go
07-15-2010, 03:22 PM
#37
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Tranny cooler, then stall. Got it! Thanks Mark! So you really think I need the valve springs? I'm kinda running on a tight budget, but if that's going to cause major problems I'd rather do the springs.
09-12-2010, 05:52 PM
#40
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Pacesetter Coated headers,Off Road Y-Pipe,SLP pully,P&P TB,Yank SS3600,Hypertech Hand Tuner,Katech solid tensioner,3:23's,Stock CME,Blackwing Lid,UMI LCA,PHB,STB,Spohn Adj.Torque Arm.11.88 @113.50 W/ 1.63 60Ft on Nitto 555R's.No weight reduction.