Car dies when put into D and R.
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Car dies when put into D and R. Buddy of mine has my old camaro (in sig) that has a built 4l60e with a 3200 stall. Well from what he is telling me that he can start the car, but when he tried to put tranny into D it will die. Same thing with R. I am thinking it's the stall thats could be locked up. Any other ideas? Possibly the lock up solenoid in the tranny?
Did he originally have a stock stall ? Also can he put on foot on the gas and other on the brake and keep it running ?
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It was my old car and i bought the stall a few years back and its a 3200. Yes he can keep his foot on gas to keep it running, but once he lets off it dies.
If he can keep it running with keeping the foot on the gas its not the converter being locked. Likley a running issue. I think a tuner needed to look at it.
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It idles perfectly fine when in neutral or park. The car is at my house now, but he comes over every couple of days to start the car and lets it run for a few minutes. He even revs it up as well with no problems. Just when it goes into D or R without gas it dies. If he revs it up and pops it into D it won't die, but as soon as it he lets off the gas it will die.
When I say have a tuner look at it i mean thats its tuning or sensor or as mentioned IAC related its not a trans issue. If the lockup clutch was on the car would die when placed in gear reved up or not and shut down like a manual trans you poped the clutch on at idle.
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When I say have a tuner look at it i mean thats its tuning or sensor or as mentioned IAC related its not a trans issue. If the lockup clutch was on the car would die when placed in gear reved up or not and shut down like a manual trans you poped the clutch on at idle.
I had this similiar problem with my original transmission. It will idel great in P and N but as soon as a placed it in R or D the car would sputter a bit and shut up.
The shop i took to said the stall was locked. So i ended up getting a new tranny.
The shop i took to said the stall was locked. So i ended up getting a new tranny.
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When I say have a tuner look at it i mean thats its tuning or sensor or as mentioned IAC related its not a trans issue. If the lockup clutch was on the car would die when placed in gear reved up or not and shut down like a manual trans you poped the clutch on at idle.
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not really. but yess in some ways. i had an iac valve stick when moving. it wouldnt go to a certain iac step. what i did is take it out. clean it with electrical parts cleaner. and closed it manually all the way down by hand. PITA. this solved my issues with iac valves. but remember your desired idle airflow for in gear in ur tune could be off. or the spark correction isnt enough.
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Stalls in gear. Why not jack up the rear of the car off the ground 1" . Then start up the car , put it in drive and let it run for a minute , then lightly put your foot on the brake to see if it stalls. then repete this with the parking brake. if it is an engine tune issue it should stall either way. if the TCC will not unlock without electrical disconnect (Foot brake switch) then it is stuck on , either solenoid or valve.
First I would scan for codes (even if there is no light on the dash)
To first eliminate it as a lockup issue I would hold the rpms gently and get the car in drive and take it for a spin. Once the tranny is warmed up do you feel the lockup engage / disengage? Can you feel the looseness of the converter when you first took off? Telling if the converter is locked or not should be an easy diagnosis.
Do check/clean the IAC.
Is your heat/AC turned on? The tune could be a little off with those accessories running. I've seen lots of cammed auto's chug a bit or die at idle on a cold start when thrown in gear and say the heat is on.
I've seen this same issue before with a bad MAF, try cleaning it or replacing it.
You could try an idle relearn for ***** n' giggles.
If you tried all the above take it back to the tuner to see whats up, it should be an easy diagnoses/fix if its in the tune.
To first eliminate it as a lockup issue I would hold the rpms gently and get the car in drive and take it for a spin. Once the tranny is warmed up do you feel the lockup engage / disengage? Can you feel the looseness of the converter when you first took off? Telling if the converter is locked or not should be an easy diagnosis.
Do check/clean the IAC.
Is your heat/AC turned on? The tune could be a little off with those accessories running. I've seen lots of cammed auto's chug a bit or die at idle on a cold start when thrown in gear and say the heat is on.
I've seen this same issue before with a bad MAF, try cleaning it or replacing it.
You could try an idle relearn for ***** n' giggles.
If you tried all the above take it back to the tuner to see whats up, it should be an easy diagnoses/fix if its in the tune.
If the engine comes to an abrubt stop when put into drive or reverse, the converter clutch is stuck on. The IAC on the TB would have nothing to do with this. It would stumble and stall and could possibly be feathered to stay running. You can get a scanner to confirm the LU Solenoid failure, or the converter clutch is stuck on. You need a scanner with the manual solenoid control, (breakout box), where you can engage the solenoids manually without the computer involved. If you listen carefully, you can hear the solenoids clicking in the pan when you turn on and off the solenoids. My money is on the lock-up solenoid or bad converter clutch.