ok so i had virginia speed swap my m6 to a flt level 7 4l60 with a py3600 converter. After installation Ed started to tune the transmission and calls me and tells me that it dosent shift automatically and when put in drive it starts in third gear, also when you put it in 1st it just acts like its in nuetral. he assured me it was not in limp mode but i dont think he checked for any codes(i could be wrong thou). Ed also said that the converter was locking up. Does this sound like a solenoid or something else.

 

anyone?!?!

 

This is just from the top of my head so someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the clutches apply as follows:

When in drive:
1st: forward
2nd: forward, 2-4 band
3rd: forward, 3-4 clutch
4th: forward, 2-4 band, 3-4 clutch

If you select 1-3 and don't have it in main drive the overrun clutch just reinforces the forward clutch.

So all that being said, I don't see how it would start in third unless the 3-4 clutch was stuck, or something electronic is messed up, or maybe the fluid is low. Maybe the pump is bad and everything is slipping, or there is a leak in the spacer plate. Could be a lot of things, but I'm confused why the person who sold the tranny or the one doing your tuning can't troubleshoot it.

 

they were trouble shooting it until i couldnt afford it anymore, they replaced the shift solenoid and the other sensor that tells the tranny which gear you have it in. what else could be causing this issue?

 

First you need to make a determination if your looking at a trans or a pcm or wiring issue the latter wiring being most likley with a m6 to a4 conversion.
I would set this test up to see whats being comanded if your having to do this on your own ,
1- In the trans harness find the yellow wire with a black stripe and the lt green wire.
2-Get 2 12 volt leds from radio shack one gree and one red,
3Get about 15 feet of wire and some splice connectors the ones you dont have to cut the wire to use.
4-spice the negative side of the green one to the light green wire and the other side to the fuse box 12vusing a length of wire to get in the car with te leds
5-Do the same with the red one but on the yellow wire with the black stripe.
Drive car if the PCM is working right and the wiring is correct you should see.

1-both on
2-green off - red one
3-both off
4-green on and red off

If this happens then you have a issue with the trans if they dont happen like this when you drive then you have and issue with the PCM or harness and will be able to tell where you need to look.

Frank at PerformaBuilt

 

perhaps you should start by testing for +12v @ the harness. Pin E, ignition in the on position.

 

when i was driving the car home 1st gear was working for about 3 miles and then returned to feeling like a trans brake. I reset the computer and what do you know 1st gear was again working. I checked for codes but their wasnt any. Once it stops raining i will check pin e for 12v.

 

If you getting the gears after a reset of the pcm and lockup then you do have power on pin E since both the shift solenoids and the lockup solenoid are supplied from there, You could intermitantley be setting a code due to the stall though it should show as PO757 I suspect you have a tuning issue or possibly a wiring issue or both.

 

the car still wont shift on its own though. The tuner told me that the computer was commanding the solenoids. so if i can manually shift into all gears then why cant i just put it in drive and the trans shift on its own?

 

any more ideas of what i should check next? i used a auto zone scanner, would transmission codes show up on it? What part or parts would keep the trans from shifting on its own? any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated!!!

 

bump!!!!!!!!

 

just checked and i have 12v power on pin E. Any other ideas?

 

You Need to pull the valve body down and clean it in solvent usually the shuttle valve sticks and will cause funny things to happen what ever it is if its not setting codes then it is hydralic problem if it is setting codes then it could be both electrical or mechanical your valvebody controls the shifting process so i would start there

 

where is the valvebody located (a picture would be great) so i can pull it and clean it. thanks for the suggestion G body

 

your going to have to remove the transmission pan you will then see the filter which is mounter to the valve body.

I was looking for a picture for you and came upon these videos which are probably more helpful anyways.

The videos on the left deal with removal and dis assembly of the valvebody
http://video.boxwrench.net/transmission/index.htm

Good luck.

 

it seems a little more involved than i thought it would be, but when the weather around here gets better ill pull it out and clean it up. is there anything i should look for while im in there?

 

im about to send it back to FLT, any other electrical stuff i should check first?

 

You could try the test i mentioned above. However I certainly would not pull the vb without and ok from FLT first.
I would take a few and do those test though it would be ashamed to skip a simple test and find that there was nothing going on with the trans. You would be amazed how many times that little self made tool has saved people much money and stress. Trust me what the data says is happening and whats really happening are not always the same.

 

what is the name of those connectors so i can try that led test? Since the car started life as a m6, is there any fuses that i may need to add?

 

Check to make sure the speed signal is good.I'm not talking by the speedo but by a scanner.You can see if it's jumping.I've had this problem before and the stock speedo looked fine but the signal to the computer was jumping which caused tranny shifting problems.We swaped the speed sensor and everything worked perfect.