pancho toco loco

iTrader: (8)

rufrntn im running a 11 by 12 by 1 1/2 stacked cooler. Fits just fine in front of the AC condensser. Have'nt seen temps go over 160. They stay with in the 140-150 range. 160 was stop and go around town driving with the AC on.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Nice write up.......BUT don't put a tranny cooler or any other type of cooler up against the condensor or radiator. Mount it at least a few inches away from them so the HOT air coming off the backside doesn't go right into the condensor or radiator and cause a hot spot in that big area. Mounting it away from them will let the hot air mix with the ram air off the air dam before it goes into them.

Like this:

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qwarnon

on the debate of using the stock cooler and aftermarket one vs. just the after market, I would think someone needs to measure the temp of the fluid as it exits the transmission coming towards the stock cooler, with the stock cooler unhooked, and no aftermarket cooler if it is less than or equal to 180-190, i would doubt the stock cooler is doing much, if it is above 180-190 i would believe that the stock cooler is cooling it down to that range, then the aftermarket cooler is lowering it more after that.

I may be wrong though.

duckvader

iTrader: (1)

just what i was looking for. explains very well.thanks

damn

Could someone tell us what size/type barb to screw into the feed line and return line so i could use hose and clamps to the aftermarket cooler.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

What?


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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So...it seems the perfect set up would be to remove the factory (ridiculous) cooler from the radiator, which I have done, and I plugged the the two holes in the plastic side tank.
I ran for 6 years with the aftermarket cooler and the factory radiator cooler. 2 years ago I removed the factory one, so I guess my line pressure changed. So if add fin type in place of the factory cooler it should be fine.

I have one stacked cooler on there now....but I'm going to add a fin type cooler. Since the fin type cooler won't decrease flow but will still aid in further cooling, it seems the best way to get the most cooling without changing/hurting line pressure.
I'll use a splitter valve so these two coolers are run in parallel.

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MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

The kits comes with all barbs, fittings, and other hardware you need.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Do I have to worry about air in the system?

Gilbert@Ace Racing

I haven't seen this thread before, thanks for posting it up. The OP did a good job of putting some good information together.

But there are a few things I want to clear up guys...

The reason the factory installed the cooler in the radiator is to provide heat for the transmission in the winter. It's not such a crucial thing in the southern states, but in the regions where it gets cold and stays cold there is a significant benefit to running the factory cooler. Think about running your transmission with frozen rubber seals... remember the Space Shuttle Challenger? It exploded because of frozen rubber seals in one of the solid booster rockets.

Line pressure does not, cannot and will not change regardless of cooler routing. What can and will happen to a transmission when there is an issue with the cooling system is it can die a horrible death when the cooler becomes clogged with debris. The fluid that feeds the cooler is directly from the transmission torque converter. That is where the heat is generated. The fluid then goes to the cooler and back to the transmission. The fluid that returns from the cooler is then fed into the lubrication circuits of the transmission. That's why transmissions will cease up if the cooler has an obstruction. And that's exactly why some companies will tell people to simply bypass the factory cooler and install an aftermarket cooler when the proper installation would be to utilize the factory cooler in conjunction with the aftermarket cooler.

As far as flush mounting the cooler to the condenser or radiator, there really is no right or wrong way. In a properly functioning cooling system there will be not "hot spots". In fact, the tranny will be cooler than the condenser or the radiator, especially in the summer time when the condenser can reach several hundred degrees! Depending on how the airflow is coming into the space that a cooler is mounted, when not mounted flush... the air can actually bypass the cooler because it will take the path of least resistance. I've cured more than one overheating condition on cars in the past by redirecting air into or around the radiator.

Hope that helps gang!

g

1964_442

iTrader: (5)

hi, im planning to use this plate-fin http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-678/ NOT bypassing the stock one, I mean using both, will they cause too much preassure or is it fine?

Awake455

Not off topic, but off vehicle.

I'm in one of those insanely "holy ish I didn't know it could go that low" cold climates. My engine can be running for nearly 2 minutes on some days before the coolant temp sensor reaches -36 degrees F. I'm not liking the idea of a trans cooler out in that frigid air. I've been pondering the notion of an oil to coolant heat exchanger for my towing rig. I recall a few places used to make these, does anyone still make any?

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

^I have no idea

nomoneyz

iTrader: (15)

Just in my experience, I ran an aftermarket cooler in line with the factory cooler and my temps went crazy high way past the 200 mark on my gauge. I then just ran the aftermarket cooler and temps never even came near 200.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

This is odd. Did you run the stock cooler before or after the aftermarket cooler?

It also makes me wonder if there was an obstruction or poor flow through your stock cooler. Was the aftermarket cooler a stacked cooler or a tube and fin style?

On my setup I run into the stock cooler, through the aftermarket cooler, through an inline trans fluid filter, and finally back to the trans and it doesn't run warm at all.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Question.
Im in the middle of installing a fti 3800, my father and I are debating deleting the stock cooler lines all together and replacing with 45 degree fittings off the trans, push lock connections with high pressure hose to the b&m cooler, bypassing the stock cooler aswell. Sound ok, or is that going to drop line pressure to much? Thx

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Many people just bypass the stock cooler, you will be fine I would think. IIRC, adding a trans cooler won't effect line pressure but I may be wrong on that. Can someone else verify this?

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Great Write-up. Sticky worthy with good info

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

well after talking to jph, I was informed it is best to use the factory cooler and a external together. He was saying that the 4l60e does benifit from the stock cooler by getting it up to temp faster. I guess these trannies need some heat but not too much in order to get consistent shifts. So we went ahead and ran a external cooler after the stocker. Thanks for the great write up!!

waxenate

iTrader: (5)

I'm planning using a cooler out of a Chevy suburban. They are stacked plate and there are tons of them at the jumkyards