stalled auto from a roll?
So how many rpms do you have to rev to get the car moving with that 4000?
I would recommend taking a ride in someone's car, I see it every month on the forum where someone buys a stall and wishes they wouldn't of been afraid to go higher.
running Yank 4000 also, I do not know at what RPM it begains to move I never pay any attition as to RPMS very happy with it, ran Yank 3500 for 8 years before going to 4000
ps: have a spare 4400 waiting on the side untill I find time to try it
Johnny
ps: have a spare 4400 waiting on the side untill I find time to try it
Johnny
did you run that 3500 with stock tranny and 10 bolt?
yep, stock trans lasted 68k then lost 3-4 clutch pack, rebuilt lasted 700 miles lost 3-4 pack again ( my fauilt hot laped/stall 30-40 time on street in 2-3 hours- yep running a 24k cooler, but no timp gauge) rebuild again then 2 nd slipping,rebuild with new builder/ with a lot of GOOD parts( 1 k IN PARTS) did vac mod, seems ok after 1000 miles, still on 10 bolt but have over 1 k in parts/ mos 31 spline axels/detroit locker/ta cover/3.73...have 9 in/locker/4.10 waiting to install
good luck
Johnny
good luck
Johnny
i went from a fuddle 3400 that seemed loose as hell and got me around 18 mpg to a vig 3200 and now i have damn near all of my stock stall mpg back, plus she still moves when i want. Im so much happier now
if you have to daily drive and have any amount of commute i would highly recommend the vig 3200, especially if you are on a stock cam.
if you have to daily drive and have any amount of commute i would highly recommend the vig 3200, especially if you are on a stock cam.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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I daily drive my Cammed 4000 stall and LOVE it!! Even from a roll, it gets the job done. I just swapped out my cam, so i havent really driven to much since, but with my 234/230 it pulled great, and drove well even in town.
my ss3600 moves at a 850-900 rpm idle, unless I'm on a hill I can cruise around town at under 2200rpms stop and go...takes a good bit of throttle before the stall starts to raise considerably
At the end of the day you are going to most likely be stuck between a 3600 or 4000.
The number one thing is to go with a quality converter. Something with a billet front cover from a sponsor; FTI, Yank, Circle D to name a few. They can all help spec a converter for your car.
Also generally your going to need torev more with the bigger converter under light throttle. Every product is different but you can think of it roughly like this.
My converter with 2:73s needs just under 2k to move from a stoplight at the rate of traffic. A buddies car with a 4k needs more like 2.5k to do the same.
If you go with a bigger converter the STR ratio frequently gets higher. More heat for the tranny, so something to consider if your on the stock 60e like me.
The number one thing is to go with a quality converter. Something with a billet front cover from a sponsor; FTI, Yank, Circle D to name a few. They can all help spec a converter for your car.
Also generally your going to need torev more with the bigger converter under light throttle. Every product is different but you can think of it roughly like this.
My converter with 2:73s needs just under 2k to move from a stoplight at the rate of traffic. A buddies car with a 4k needs more like 2.5k to do the same.
If you go with a bigger converter the STR ratio frequently gets higher. More heat for the tranny, so something to consider if your on the stock 60e like me.
