tilly

iTrader: (5)

Okay,

So I have been getting bored at work and been trying to figure out my 2->3 shift problem. It gotten better with the new gear in the back. No matter what RPM i tell the tranny to shift, it would hit limiter under WOT even when i have the speed set to 0 and the rpm shift speed set to 3900.

So I looked at the partial throttle table and dropped down the speed for which that shifts at. Yes I have corrected my speedo. I have also set my WOT Enable to 82% TPS. I also took a tune that has the shift pressures adjusted and I changed the shift times.

Can some one take a look at this file briefly and either say, you're stupid or these are safe good changes. Torque management should still be enabled.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

on mine I had to set shift point by mph speed, it would not change based on my rpm commands

have you tried that yet?

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

That tune file doesn't open for me.

I'd like to take a look at it, but I'll still say most WOT 2-3 flares are mechanical problems or transmission mechanical tuning (clutch material/clearance, feed hole sizes, etc)

72blownvert

Does the trans have a shift kit?This is a very common problem on a 4l60E sometimes thats all that is needed other times it could be a problem inside of trans.How many miles are on it?

tilly

iTrader: (5)

There is no shift kit (yet). I adjusted the tables and revert them back to stock once i put my transgo and new converter in the trans.

Oh, you need the beta version of HPT to open that file.

Trans has maybe 35k to 40k and probably the last 5k miles have been pretty hard on it. I have a fuddle 4k infront of it but I am putting an FTI with the shift kit.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

If you're putting a converter and shift kit in it, you might as well open it up and put a better 3-4 clutch in as well. And other parts like a sunshell, etc.

tilly

iTrader: (5)

I've thought about it. But I've never opened up any type of transmission. Yes I have change clutch packs on motorcycles but that's about as much tranny knowledge i have. It will be a learning experience doing the shift kit.

Everyone who i have talked to says its a pain in the butt to rebuild these transmissions. And I am teetering on what I want to do.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

Well you've got to consider how many times you've done a 2-3 shift that flared. It all works on killing the 3-4 clutch.
It makes no sense to me to put a shift kit and converter in it and not upgrade the weakest part in the transmission.

With the mileage you have you could easily take the pump out and replace the 3-4 clutch, sunshell, whatever else. You could skip the sealing rings which are one thing that requires special tools.

To do the clutches you need a small screw driver to work the snap ring off, to do the sunshell you need lock ring pliers. Other than that it's sockets and basic tools.

I did the exact same modifications to my transmission at 32,000 miles.

It may be an extra headache, but think about driving it with the new converter and shift kit and 2-3 still flaring, you'd have to drop the transmission all over again.

Quick Sh0t xMLx

Your 3-4 clutches are shot. Doesn't matter what you do to the tables it's not going to fix it. I have the same exact problem. I would stop running it hard unless you want to be limping around in 2nd gear like I am

Tried to look at the file but I don't have the beta and couldn't find it anywhere.

tilly

iTrader: (5)

Well, if i am going to go this deep what should I replace. Its been a tough 10k miles on it.

So 3-4 clutches and sunshell. What else?

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

A borg warner hi energy 8 disc 3-4 clutch, bw hi energy band with reinforced anchors, The hi-rev 3-4 and fwd springs that come in the HD2 kit, beast sunshell, wide sungear bushing, transgo hi-rev pump ring kit, front seal, pump bushing, pump gasket and o-ring, bolt o-rings. Usually the 1-2 and fwd accumulator pistons are plastic, replace those with aluminum.

Thats about $200 in parts.

You might be better off having a shop swap out the 3-4 and fwd springs that come in the kit, the fwd spring retainer is flimsy and easy to damage so the proper tool or a well made tool is a must.

A good set up on the 1-2 accumulator is to put the blue spring in first, the gold tapered washer, the piston, then the orange spring. NO SHIM WASHERS.

All the holes they instruct you to drill, drill to .093, .104 on third, .125 on 4th, block the fourth accumulator by driving a check ball into the feed hole in the case. Adjust the servo travel to .062 to .125.

tilly

iTrader: (5)

Okay. Well I am a bit of a do it yourselfer type of person. I remember seeing a writeup here where a guy rebuilt his transmission himself. Is there some nice documentation on the dis assembly and assembly of these damn clock like mechanisms. I do have the official GM service manuals, but it only shows valve body stuff when it comes to dis assembly and the layout of the clutch packs but not any type of procedures.