Transmission cooler questions
#1
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Transmission cooler questions
I am going to order a transmission cooler tomorrow and I am wondering if I should bypass the stock cooler completely or leave it intact? I am running a 160* stat, but I have yet to get the fans tuned to turn on sooner. I have an appointment to have it tuned in Sept, but for the time being I need some advice.
I am going to get one of the B&M super coolers and a gauge probably. I have asked in a few other threads and no one ever replied.
Thanks in advance.
I am going to get one of the B&M super coolers and a gauge probably. I have asked in a few other threads and no one ever replied.
Thanks in advance.
#3
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But why do some people say bypass, when you can use the added BTU removal from the stock unit?
Location of the added cooler should play a part also.
Would you mount 'Dope-style', no stock unit, & then daily drive thru the stop-n-go city driving? Hell no, ...
I'd like to see written proven recorded results from someone doing that on a daily driver, a drag racer, a road course user, ..., etc.
Tell ya what, get yer gauge on there first, & check the results.
Then add the extra cooler, & check the results.
Then remove the stock cooler out of the system passage, & again check the results.
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#4
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I am going to order a transmission cooler tomorrow and I am wondering if I should bypass the stock cooler completely or leave it intact? I am running a 160* stat, but I have yet to get the fans tuned to turn on sooner. I have an appointment to have it tuned in Sept, but for the time being I need some advice.
I am going to get one of the B&M super coolers and a gauge probably. I have asked in a few other threads and no one ever replied.
Thanks in advance.
I am going to get one of the B&M super coolers and a gauge probably. I have asked in a few other threads and no one ever replied.
Thanks in advance.
Mount the tranny cooler like I did (pics below)...do not mount it up against the condensor or radiator, it will just create a huge hot spot on the condensor/radiator the size of the fluid cooler.
By mounting it like I did the cooler gets bathed all around as well as ram air through it BEFORE it hits the condensor, so the hot air coming off the fluid cooler is close to outside air temp before it hits the condensor.
Tranny cooler:
2 bolts, 2 metal sleeves as spacers to keep the cooler away from the frame its mounted to. Drill two holes in the frame.
First 2 pics....tranny cooler.
Second 2 pics.....power steering cooler
......I can tell you this, as we all know: the cooler some things are on a car, the longer it will last. My 4L60E is 4 years old with ~500 RWTQ of daily driving it. I attribute its long life and daily driving in one of the hottest places on earth to my cooler. I also have a 12+ year old "original" 1998power steering pump, and I definitely attribute that to deleting the dumbass GM factory cooler (heater) and putting my aftermarket one on. The factory PS cooler would give you 3rd degree burns if you ever touched it...my aftermarket one is NEVER more than warm to the touch, no problem putting my hand on it and keeping it there. Proof that its WAY better than the factory junk.
Do both of those coolers.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 08-02-2010 at 09:59 AM.
#7
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Never by pass the cooler.
The transfer of btu are much greater oil to water, than oil to air.
You will just be defeating the purpass.
Heat is the primary cause of most transmission failures.
Most air coolers by themselves are not sufficent.
Temp in the pan should not exceed 200f.
You can use a non contact thermoter to check the temp, just get close to the pan on a hot day after you have driven for some time, that or plug in a scan tool and read the temp.
The transfer of btu are much greater oil to water, than oil to air.
You will just be defeating the purpass.
Heat is the primary cause of most transmission failures.
Most air coolers by themselves are not sufficent.
Temp in the pan should not exceed 200f.
You can use a non contact thermoter to check the temp, just get close to the pan on a hot day after you have driven for some time, that or plug in a scan tool and read the temp.
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#8
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Mine is by passed and my temps have only gotten over 180, when I hot lapped the car at the track. Normal temp not running it hard or racing at the track is 160. Works fine for me, I would not change mine back.
It has been super hot here lately 95 with heat index up to 110 and still no problems, even in traffic.
It has been super hot here lately 95 with heat index up to 110 and still no problems, even in traffic.
#9
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Another issue is if the car has any cold weather start ups. Some of the B&M coolers do not have a low temp bypass.
I ended up running it in series after talking with several shops. Plus my cooler doesnt have the bypass feature and I occasionally will run it in colder weather when the streets are clean.
I ended up running it in series after talking with several shops. Plus my cooler doesnt have the bypass feature and I occasionally will run it in colder weather when the streets are clean.
#10
Bypass it. Plus, having a tranny cooler in your radiator is just another 2 places a radiator leak can spring up one day. Its a pretty cheesy design by GM. Hot fluid going through more hot fluid. Just like our ridiculous power steering coolers getting "heated" up by the hot radiator fluid. I gave you 2 pics below of my power steering cooler too. I removed my cheesy factory cooler.
Mount the tranny cooler like I did (pics below)...do not mount it up against the condensor or radiator, it will just create a huge hot spot on the condensor/radiator the size of the fluid cooler.
By mounting it like I did the cooler gets bathed all around as well as ram air through it BEFORE it hits the condensor, so the hot air coming off the fluid cooler is close to outside air temp before it hits the condensor.
Tranny cooler:
2 bolts, 2 metal sleeves as spacers to keep the cooler away from the frame its mounted to. Drill two holes in the frame.
First 2 pics....tranny cooler.
Second 2 pics.....power steering cooler
......I can tell you this, as we all know: the cooler some things are on a car, the longer it will last. My 4L60E is 4 years old with ~500 RWTQ of daily driving it. I attribute its long life and daily driving in one of the hottest places on earth to my cooler. I also have a 12+ year old "original" 1998power steering pump, and I definitely attribute that to deleting the dumbass GM factory cooler (heater) and putting my aftermarket one on. The factory PS cooler would give you 3rd degree burns if you ever touched it...my aftermarket one is NEVER more than warm to the touch, no problem putting my hand on it and keeping it there. Proof that its WAY better than the factory junk.
Do both of those coolers.
.
Mount the tranny cooler like I did (pics below)...do not mount it up against the condensor or radiator, it will just create a huge hot spot on the condensor/radiator the size of the fluid cooler.
By mounting it like I did the cooler gets bathed all around as well as ram air through it BEFORE it hits the condensor, so the hot air coming off the fluid cooler is close to outside air temp before it hits the condensor.
Tranny cooler:
2 bolts, 2 metal sleeves as spacers to keep the cooler away from the frame its mounted to. Drill two holes in the frame.
First 2 pics....tranny cooler.
Second 2 pics.....power steering cooler
......I can tell you this, as we all know: the cooler some things are on a car, the longer it will last. My 4L60E is 4 years old with ~500 RWTQ of daily driving it. I attribute its long life and daily driving in one of the hottest places on earth to my cooler. I also have a 12+ year old "original" 1998power steering pump, and I definitely attribute that to deleting the dumbass GM factory cooler (heater) and putting my aftermarket one on. The factory PS cooler would give you 3rd degree burns if you ever touched it...my aftermarket one is NEVER more than warm to the touch, no problem putting my hand on it and keeping it there. Proof that its WAY better than the factory junk.
Do both of those coolers.
.
What coolers are you using?
#11
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
I disagree. A lot of it depends on your driving conditions too.
But why do some people say bypass, when you can use the added BTU removal from the stock unit?
Location of the added cooler should play a part also.
Would you mount 'Dope-style', no stock unit, & then daily drive thru the stop-n-go city driving? Hell no, ...
I'd like to see written proven recorded results from someone doing that on a daily driver, a drag racer, a road course user, ..., etc.
Tell ya what, get yer gauge on there first, & check the results.
Then add the extra cooler, & check the results.
Then remove the stock cooler out of the system passage, & again check the results.
Stickies
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lush-more.html
But why do some people say bypass, when you can use the added BTU removal from the stock unit?
Location of the added cooler should play a part also.
Would you mount 'Dope-style', no stock unit, & then daily drive thru the stop-n-go city driving? Hell no, ...
I'd like to see written proven recorded results from someone doing that on a daily driver, a drag racer, a road course user, ..., etc.
Tell ya what, get yer gauge on there first, & check the results.
Then add the extra cooler, & check the results.
Then remove the stock cooler out of the system passage, & again check the results.
Stickies
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lush-more.html