AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

I am going to order a transmission cooler tomorrow and I am wondering if I should bypass the stock cooler completely or leave it intact? I am running a 160* stat, but I have yet to get the fans tuned to turn on sooner. I have an appointment to have it tuned in Sept, but for the time being I need some advice.

I am going to get one of the B&M super coolers and a gauge probably. I have asked in a few other threads and no one ever replied.

Thanks in advance.

skat

iTrader: (3)

By pass it. I think that is what most people do. I did on mine. And def. get a gauge if not right away as soon as you can.

PontiacFan

iTrader: (104)

I disagree. A lot of it depends on your driving conditions too.
But why do some people say bypass, when you can use the added BTU removal from the stock unit?

Location of the added cooler should play a part also.
Would you mount 'Dope-style', no stock unit, & then daily drive thru the stop-n-go city driving? Hell no, ...

I'd like to see written proven recorded results from someone doing that on a daily driver, a drag racer, a road course user, ..., etc.

Tell ya what, get yer gauge on there first, & check the results.
Then add the extra cooler, & check the results.
Then remove the stock cooler out of the system passage, & again check the results.

Stickies
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lush-more.html

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Bypass it. Plus, having a tranny cooler in your radiator is just another 2 places a radiator leak can spring up one day. Its a pretty cheesy design by GM. Hot fluid going through more hot fluid. Just like our ridiculous power steering coolers getting "heated" up by the hot radiator fluid. I gave you 2 pics below of my power steering cooler too. I removed my cheesy factory cooler.

Mount the tranny cooler like I did (pics below)...do not mount it up against the condensor or radiator, it will just create a huge hot spot on the condensor/radiator the size of the fluid cooler.
By mounting it like I did the cooler gets bathed all around as well as ram air through it BEFORE it hits the condensor, so the hot air coming off the fluid cooler is close to outside air temp before it hits the condensor.

Tranny cooler:
2 bolts, 2 metal sleeves as spacers to keep the cooler away from the frame its mounted to. Drill two holes in the frame.

First 2 pics....tranny cooler.
Second 2 pics.....power steering cooler

......I can tell you this, as we all know: the cooler some things are on a car, the longer it will last. My 4L60E is 4 years old with ~500 RWTQ of daily driving it. I attribute its long life and daily driving in one of the hottest places on earth to my cooler. I also have a 12+ year old "original" 1998power steering pump, and I definitely attribute that to deleting the dumbass GM factory cooler (heater) and putting my aftermarket one on. The factory PS cooler would give you 3rd degree burns if you ever touched it...my aftermarket one is NEVER more than warm to the touch, no problem putting my hand on it and keeping it there. Proof that its WAY better than the factory junk.

Do both of those coolers.



.

Jay-P

iTrader: (16)

In the pictures posted above, how do you have the top of the tranny cooler attached?

TTA1437

iTrader: (7)

I too would like to know how you mounted the top?

Thanks

Detroit Gearbox

Never by pass the cooler.
The transfer of btu are much greater oil to water, than oil to air.
You will just be defeating the purpass.
Heat is the primary cause of most transmission failures.
Most air coolers by themselves are not sufficent.
Temp in the pan should not exceed 200f.
You can use a non contact thermoter to check the temp, just get close to the pan on a hot day after you have driven for some time, that or plug in a scan tool and read the temp.

skat

iTrader: (3)

Mine is by passed and my temps have only gotten over 180, when I hot lapped the car at the track. Normal temp not running it hard or racing at the track is 160. Works fine for me, I would not change mine back.

It has been super hot here lately 95 with heat index up to 110 and still no problems, even in traffic.

peterlawl84

iTrader: (12)

Another issue is if the car has any cold weather start ups. Some of the B&M coolers do not have a low temp bypass.
I ended up running it in series after talking with several shops. Plus my cooler doesnt have the bypass feature and I occasionally will run it in colder weather when the streets are clean.

99monguse

I see you just have bulk hose connected to your coolers; where are you connecting the bulk hose to the trans cooler pipes? There are two hard lines coming off the passenger side of the trans and they connect to the passenger side of the radiator, one high one low. Can you post a pic of the actual connection between the OEM pipe and your bulk hoses?

What coolers are you using?

z28_n_tx

iTrader: (7)

thought i would share my findings...i had may gauge go in first before my cooler and the readinds where through the pressure port. im in texas and lately the temp has been 97+ and feels more like over 100. my commute 45minutes from work to m y house at about 5ish in the dead heat , my car would see 170- 185 ish on the hight way. in traffict it once got all the way up to 200- 205!!!! put my cooler on similar to the one in the pics above.. now i see 145-160 on the high way and have yet to see it go past 180 in stop and go traffict. and believe me its hot down here in texas!!! this is all on my stock tranny. ill post up once i get my stall put in.