My car sucks on a roll. Stall time!
#41
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You know what they say....watch for idiots crossing the road.
#42
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With a quality high stall, dead spots no longer exist. I say this with some emphasis, AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE TRANSMISSION & CONVERTER TUNED RIGHT, it won't matter what mile per hour you're at when you give it hell. If properly tuned, it will downshift to the correct gear, and flash to your given stall speed and put your *** in the seat. I don't care what speed I'm going from a roll... I feel that my converter matches my setup perfectly, and if his car is faster than mine, he's going to have to prove it by either driving his *** off (manual trans car) or having an equally deadly motor/auto combination. From 65+ against an M6 car, no sweat. Like I said, dead spots are erased. Prior to the stall and gear change, when I had 3.23's, I could downshift to 2nd as long as I was at or below 70 miles per hour. It would be up in the RPMs and take off like a bat out of hell. With the stock stall though, the moment I shifted, I'd lose all that momentum because the shift extensions were, to say the least, dick! So I'd have to wait for it to hit that powerband again and by that time, against an equally fast car, or a car that may have been a little underpowered but had a better combination... I'd get dumped. Not anymore. That's the beauty of a good combination. Big cam, baby cam, I don't give a **** cam, if you have a good quality, well built high stall converter... hold the **** on because the powerband never
dies. And you can use that as sig material, lol. Sorry. I know I get carried away with my responses, but I tend to like to back up my responses with examples. Hope that
helps.
dies. And you can use that as sig material, lol. Sorry. I know I get carried away with my responses, but I tend to like to back up my responses with examples. Hope that
helps.
#43
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With a quality high stall, dead spots no longer exist. I say this with some emphasis, AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE TRANSMISSION & CONVERTER TUNED RIGHT, it won't matter what mile per hour you're at when you give it hell. If properly tuned, it will downshift to the correct gear, and flash to your given stall speed and put your *** in the seat. I don't care what speed I'm going from a roll... I feel that my converter matches my setup perfectly, and if his car is faster than mine, he's going to have to prove it by either driving his *** off (manual trans car) or having an equally deadly motor/auto combination. From 65+ against an M6 car, no sweat. Like I said, dead spots are erased. Prior to the stall and gear change, when I had 3.23's, I could downshift to 2nd as long as I was at or below 70 miles per hour. It would be up in the RPMs and take off like a bat out of hell. With the stock stall though, the moment I shifted, I'd lose all that momentum because the shift extensions were, to say the least, dick! So I'd have to wait for it to hit that powerband again and by that time, against an equally fast car, or a car that may have been a little underpowered but had a better combination... I'd get dumped. Not anymore. That's the beauty of a good combination. Big cam, baby cam, I don't give a **** cam, if you have a good quality, well built high stall converter... hold the **** on because the powerband never dies. And you can use that as sig material, lol. Sorry. I know I get carried away with my responses, but I tend to like to back up my responses with examples. Hope that helps.
Now this is the **** im talkin bout
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#45
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Im just looking for a reccomendation on the Yank stall for me. Im running on 01 Firebird Formula, Dual Catback, 125 Nitro Shot, SLP Lid, New Heads (Unknown), Ms3 Camshaft..And soon to be a Fast 102mm Fast Intake Manifold and TB. What Size Converter do you think is needed?
#46
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Im just looking for a reccomendation on the Yank stall for me. Im running on 01 Firebird Formula, Dual Catback, 125 Nitro Shot, SLP Lid, New Heads (Unknown), Ms3 Camshaft..And soon to be a Fast 102mm Fast Intake Manifold and TB. What Size Converter do you think is needed?