4l60 shift kit DIY install?
4l60 shift kit DIY install? Hello,
I have been trying to search on shift kits for the 4l60. It appears to be the consensus that I should get the Transgo HD2.
But I have gotten very mixed results when it comes to the install. Is this a do it yourself job? Can it be done without dropping the trans? (some say just skip installing one part - what is the consequence of this?)
If I can install my own heads/cam, can I install my shift kit?
TIA, Aaron
I have been trying to search on shift kits for the 4l60. It appears to be the consensus that I should get the Transgo HD2.
But I have gotten very mixed results when it comes to the install. Is this a do it yourself job? Can it be done without dropping the trans? (some say just skip installing one part - what is the consequence of this?)
If I can install my own heads/cam, can I install my shift kit?
TIA, Aaron
I did my own....if you've done heads/cam, you can do the shift kit. The trans stays in the car. I used the transgo kit, it wasnt hard to do with the vid and manual. Just keep things accounted for.
the HD2 doesnt have a video, but it is easy to install. the instructions are straight forward, and the pictures show how everything goes back in (including check ***** and bolts)
what youre thinking of for dropping the trans is the servo on the side. not sure if the f-bodies have enough room to get it out or not. you may have to unbolt the trans mount and lower it a little, but i still dont know if thats enough room
what youre thinking of for dropping the trans is the servo on the side. not sure if the f-bodies have enough room to get it out or not. you may have to unbolt the trans mount and lower it a little, but i still dont know if thats enough room
If you did your own heads and cam then I would say it is safe for you to tackle this install.Like 99ssleeper said..just make sure you follow the direction carefully and you keep everything accounted for
It's easy. The part people say to skip should be the spacer washers for the 1-2 accumulator. These make the 1-2 shift too firm, most people say it's annoying but I'll add that it also gives an illusion that the other shifts are too soft.
Even with no spacers it should chirp 2nd at wot.
Another thing is the accumulator housing itself. There are two used in f bodies, the earlier ones have a casting number ending in 428, around '00 or '01 they have a casting number ending in 937. The 428 is not as deep as the 937 so naturally it will have a firmer shift. You really don't want to use a spacer in the 428 housing.
What people leave out I'm assuming is the hi-rev 3-4 and forward return springs. The transmission has to come out to install those. IMO it's a good opportunity to get in there and uprade at least the 3-4 clutch and sunshell, maybe even the fwd sprag and add the $10 transgo hi-rev hardened pump rings and stiff priming spring.
As for the servo it can be removed with the trans in the car. You will need to lower the trans, how low it drops I think it depends on the exhaust setup and if you disconnect it or not. I dropped mine with the exhaust connected and had to disassemble the servo to get it out, then reassemble it as it went back in.
Heres how TransGo instructs to set up the 1-2 accumulator (with one spacer).
Dana at Pro Built recommends this set up and I find it works great.
These are the stock 3-4 and fwd return springs.
Even with no spacers it should chirp 2nd at wot.
Another thing is the accumulator housing itself. There are two used in f bodies, the earlier ones have a casting number ending in 428, around '00 or '01 they have a casting number ending in 937. The 428 is not as deep as the 937 so naturally it will have a firmer shift. You really don't want to use a spacer in the 428 housing.
What people leave out I'm assuming is the hi-rev 3-4 and forward return springs. The transmission has to come out to install those. IMO it's a good opportunity to get in there and uprade at least the 3-4 clutch and sunshell, maybe even the fwd sprag and add the $10 transgo hi-rev hardened pump rings and stiff priming spring.
As for the servo it can be removed with the trans in the car. You will need to lower the trans, how low it drops I think it depends on the exhaust setup and if you disconnect it or not. I dropped mine with the exhaust connected and had to disassemble the servo to get it out, then reassemble it as it went back in.
Heres how TransGo instructs to set up the 1-2 accumulator (with one spacer).
Dana at Pro Built recommends this set up and I find it works great.
These are the stock 3-4 and fwd return springs.
Last edited by Jays_SSZ28; Jan 30, 2018 at 08:02 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo I'm starting to tear into the trans today. I haven't tried lowering it yet, but it looks like it will be tight for the 2-4 servo. What happens if I don't change the parts under this?
Since it's part of the kit I would highly recommend doing it. Remove the crossmember and lower the transmission then you will be able to get it out and back in. I've also used Pro Builts TransGo shift kit with a bone stock transmission. I installed my kit 4 years ago and haven't had any problems since......the 10 year old trans chirps the radials on the 2-3 shift.
OK, I'll give it a shot. I have probably 75% of the kit installed, but ran into one problem. My 1-2 accumulator piston appears be starting to crack. I supposed I will have to purchase one of those. And I should probably replace the forward accumulator piston too.
Also - the instructions said to throw away the stock spring from the 3-4 accumulator and install their yellow spring - I can't seem to find a stock spring, does that sound right?
Also - the instructions said to throw away the stock spring from the 3-4 accumulator and install their yellow spring - I can't seem to find a stock spring, does that sound right?
Last edited by The Sad; Jan 19, 2011 at 12:22 AM.
Yes, I would replace that accumulator and if the other one looks fine just stick with it. I believe I remember mine not having a spring also and I just went with the setup they described.
I plugged the fourth accumulator feed like transgo does with their 700R4 kit, and I drill the 4th feed to .125.
The 4th accumulator is the only one that should be blocked in this transmission.
Your car should already have the vette servo.
When you order accumulator pistons get the regular one for the 1-2 and it has the smaller pin (older ones and the 4th has a bigger pin).
It's not a good idea to use the Sonnax pinless for the 1-2, but it's fine for the forward.
