Details:

2002 ls1 swap into 1996 mustang.

4k pi converter
4l60e built to 4l65e specs
shift kit (brand unknown)

plus boltons

harness built by chevy thunder on ebay
initial base tune included on pcm by chevy thunder



At first the trans would go into failsafe mode and lock out 1st and OD gears.
Which is normal for the 4k stall.

I sent out the pcm last week to Steve at TunedByFrost. When I reinstalled it, I took it for a drive. I immediately felt a difference in idle and shift firmness on the 1-2. But i soon realized I had no 3rd gear and obviously no OD.

I so far have tried disconnecting the trans harness and manually shifting into 3rd, which I do have.

Both Steve and I are convinced that the tune is good. He went as far as loading it onto a camaro with same mods to mine, and the car acted perfectly normal.

He set P0751, P0752, P0756, and P0757 to No Error Reported.

So, if its not the tune, and the 2-3 clutches arent burned out, it must be something electrical. A solenoid maybe?
But why were 2-3 gears working before? All i did was remove pcm, wait a week, and reinstall pcm.

Heres a screen shot of the tune.

 

Im sure the tune isn't the issue.

When your car went into failsafe then the pcm looses all control over the transmission, same effect as unplugging the trans connector. You will have manual second and of course third since both solenoids off make third. For the stall you only need 751 and 757 deleted. I cant remember if I have 52 and 56 reporting, ill check later tonight.

 

Small diameter converters can cause it to detect false misfires which will put it in failsafe mode and lock it in 3rd if the misfire tables weren't done right.

 

bump for help

 

Where did the screen shot come from? you?
So do you have hp tuners?
If you do, try using the VCM controls and shifting it manually.
Have you ever driven this trans and felt it work properly?

It would help to see the tune but I know that won't happen. Anyway the tuner said it's ok so of course it's ok. No one ever makes mistakes.

If it's a wiring problem it looks like your going to have to get your hands dirty, theres only so much that can be done over the internet.

 

Screen shot came from Steve aka Frost.
I bought it off of here several months back used with a 10,xxx fresh rebuild to 4l65e specs. Reason for sale was an upgrade to a built unit.

I just finished my swap this month.
After looking around, Im thinking its the 3-4 clutches according to my symptoms.

Its shifts from 1 to 2 firm and then instead of shifting into 3rd it feels like it goes into neutral. But then why do I have 3 gear when in failsafe mode if its the 3-4 clutches?

 

Have you checked your fluid? If the 3-4 pack was smoked you would see **** in the pan or something. Failsafe commands max line pressure. Since you dont have hptuners you can do the led mod to see if the shifts are being commanded. Inexpensive and straight forward. Would eliminate the tune from the equation.

The write up is in the stickies by performabuilt.

 

Again, has this trans ever had 3rd and 4th since you've had it?

In third gear both shift solenoids are de-energized. If it has 3rd with the harness unplugged then it's probably not the clutches.

Wiring, tps, vss, etc.

Do you have the VSS connected to the PCM?
Have you tried reading codes?
Have you ever had the pan off?

 

fluid is fine. I saw that thread earlier and looks like an excellent idea.

trans has never been into 4th. Before the tune, it automatically went into failsafe cause of the 4k converter. So only 2nd and 3rd.

vss connected to pcm.'
codes showing with obdII reader are low cps voltage bank A and an o2 sensor malfunction code

pan was taken off to install bung for temp sensor

 

Setting the codes to no report is the easiest way to get it to work with a converter, but now when theres a real solenoid problem you have to diagnose it the old fashioned way. Check the solenoids, ohm them out, supply voltage to see if you hear a click, etc.

If that doesn't work the valve body may need to come off for inspection.
Did you know the buyer? I see a lot of stuff for sale that conveniently has just been rebuilt, maybe it hasn't been.

Maybe first take it to a trans shop and see if they can get it to shift with a controller.

Also check your grounds, as far as I know the solenoids are powered up and get switched on and off through the ground side.

 

Dropped the pan today after rigging up the LED bulb solenoid display.

Fluid was a dark chocolate color and there was a cloud of smoke at the bottom of the tray. Keep in mind I replaced the fluid <50 mi ago.

Definitely the 3-4 clutch..
Talked to my trans guy a few hours ago and he estimated me at about 650 for a stock rebuild.

That climbs my freakin build total to about 7gs. This sucks

Will a stock trans hold up to a bolt on ls1 with an occasional 150 shot? I also plan on adding an ms4 into the combo in the near future as funds permit.

 

while its apart just get it built and be done with it.

 

Yes.

Please...don't go back stock. Some get lucky, most dont

 

So how much hassle would it be to just do a quick fix for now and save for a built unit? Is replacing the 3-4 clutch something a diy'er can handle with regular shop tools?
I mean, I did this swap by myself, so I'm obviously mechanically inclined...

I also found two used transmissions locally in the $400 range.
Both have 50,xxx miles. One is off an 05 tahoe and the other a rebuilt unit with HD parts. Not fully built, but upgraded.

Just trying to weigh my options here.....

How much would it cost to do it myself??

 

You apparently have two cars, so this vehicle is not your only means of transportation. With that in mind this project vehicle could be put on hold until you have the funds for a built trans.

If you spend $700 now, which is an insane price to just have the 3-4 clutches replaced, you are thowing money in the crapper.. You say you only have bolt ons, but that is more than enough power to rip one of these 60s apart in stock form.

 

$650 was the quoted price for a stock rebuild. So I'm wondering if I can just replace the 3-4 clutches myself, for now, and how much thAt would run.

Yes, I have other means of transportation readily available.
The easiest and cheapest route for me right now is either buy one of those used trannies or try the 3-4 clutches replacement myself.....

 

Forgot to mention that my transmission was supposedly built to handle 500hp and had only 10k mi when I bought it on here....

So much for a built tranny..

 

Built to hold 500hp and 10k miles, apparently BS.

Now you're thinking of 50k transmissions for $400, again one has been rebuilt.

If you've got money to burn I'd buy the built one, take it apart and see if it's built. If it's not go shove your foot up the guys ***, what you should be doing to whoever sold you what you have now.

 

Take a poke and get one... I see mistakes, but they are in this thread, not in his calibration... the noid electrical codes are still set OEM so if/when they fail, they WILL code. The impedance of their coil windings are under constant monitoring from the PCM still.

Improperly setup misfire tables will stop TCC lockup; they will never hold the car in any gear.

 

Now go dry your eyes...