Switching from 4l60e to 400 turbo. need ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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so its been awhile since ive been on here and another racing season has come and gone. my camaro is all drag now and i pretty much ripped drive outta it this past yr and its time to upgrade. im getting a built 400 that come from a 10 sec big block nova. the tranny was built to the max and has maybe 4 runs on it when the guy and my dad did some trading. its been sitting for about 2 or 3 yrs (maybe more) has about a 2800 or 3000 stall (not sure on make) and suppoablly a trans brake. the car still has the 10-bolt with a 4.10 gear. not really if i blow it out but just needing to switch the trannys. (sry about the long story, just giving an update)
so heres where i stand now. ive pulled trannys out of older car (my dads 70 camaro) and switch from a th350 to a th400 to a 700r with no probs but never in a newer camaro like my 2000 and im just needing some ideas on what i need to do and watch for. i know ill need a cross memeber which will be here next wk and a drive shaft. my other plans are to put a B&M Star Shifter with the slap feature in it also. (took my stcok shift and concole andput it in the 70. actually doesnt look to bad) any advice on what to do about wiring to get the car to start and run will be a great help![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
also over the winter i plan on taking the car to house of boost to have is dyno tuned.
so heres where i stand now. ive pulled trannys out of older car (my dads 70 camaro) and switch from a th350 to a th400 to a 700r with no probs but never in a newer camaro like my 2000 and im just needing some ideas on what i need to do and watch for. i know ill need a cross memeber which will be here next wk and a drive shaft. my other plans are to put a B&M Star Shifter with the slap feature in it also. (took my stcok shift and concole andput it in the 70. actually doesnt look to bad) any advice on what to do about wiring to get the car to start and run will be a great help
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
also over the winter i plan on taking the car to house of boost to have is dyno tuned.
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Here is what you need.
When I switched mine. I posted pics under the tranny stickie check that out if you get a chance.
1You need a tranny crossbrace for a t400 I just got the yank one.Do you need the one with the torque arm plate or without.
2. I got a tci flex plate sfi one
3. New tranny bolts and stall bolts
4. Have a drive shaft made. I took measurments and had a local shop do mine.
5. Dipstick I have a madman it doesnt fit that well. You may get a lokar
6 Shifter I have a B&M ratchet shifter. There is a wiring diagram you have to spice some wires and wire in the neutral saftey and the reverse lights if you need them.
7. I would double check with that stall you getting. I would probally just go get a new one that fits what your application is. I run PerformaBuilt give Frank a call if you need a tranny or stall.
When I switched mine. I posted pics under the tranny stickie check that out if you get a chance.
1You need a tranny crossbrace for a t400 I just got the yank one.Do you need the one with the torque arm plate or without.
2. I got a tci flex plate sfi one
3. New tranny bolts and stall bolts
4. Have a drive shaft made. I took measurments and had a local shop do mine.
5. Dipstick I have a madman it doesnt fit that well. You may get a lokar
6 Shifter I have a B&M ratchet shifter. There is a wiring diagram you have to spice some wires and wire in the neutral saftey and the reverse lights if you need them.
7. I would double check with that stall you getting. I would probally just go get a new one that fits what your application is. I run PerformaBuilt give Frank a call if you need a tranny or stall.
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thats my main deal is the wiring. i know we have 2 stalls that are about the same and i know for sure one is good and its like a 2800. thanks for the info.
more is welcomed
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more is welcomed
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i know thats true but the 400 is free to me. hell if i really wanted to i could go with the powergilde the i got but i was always told that im not make enough power yet. im only in the maybe 350 375 range if that
i guess itd help if i list all my mods to the car![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
stock LS1 with 155,000 mile
fast 72 mm intake with stock polished TB and fast fuel rails
stock injectors
de-screened stock MAF with smooth cases
suncoast ss hood with airbox adaptor and no filter (only touches the track, no street time)
MSD wire with ngk 55 plugs
mail order tune from tuned by frost
strut tower brace
slp line lock
stock 4l60e with B&M shift improver kit
umi lca relocate brackets
richmond 4.10
i think thats it
i guess itd help if i list all my mods to the car
![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
stock LS1 with 155,000 mile
fast 72 mm intake with stock polished TB and fast fuel rails
stock injectors
de-screened stock MAF with smooth cases
suncoast ss hood with airbox adaptor and no filter (only touches the track, no street time)
MSD wire with ngk 55 plugs
mail order tune from tuned by frost
strut tower brace
slp line lock
stock 4l60e with B&M shift improver kit
umi lca relocate brackets
richmond 4.10
i think thats it
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I used the BMR TH400 crossmember, it fit perfectly.
I also used the BMR X-treme torque arm, it comes with a driveshaft loop so don't purchase one seperately.
You use only five (5) bolt to secure the trans to the engine, left three and right two. The middle top bolt is not used, not are the bottom two. Only the one next to the alignment pins and the upper left one.
A 1998 flexplate can be used with an SBC converter, you'll need 1/8" space or washers.
You will need (if you use an SBC converter) at least a 7/8 pilot spacer (B&M p/n: 2801054-19, not sure if we sell it individually)
Do not use Lokar Firewall mount dipstick (p/n: TD-3350400FM), it is too short and will end up under the cowl, hard to reach for filling up the trans/checking fluid level. It can be done though.
Use the speedometer items from a 3L80 (3 speed trans) truck, part numbers were previously posted (GM# 8655291, 8655315), they work perfectly on ex-A4 cars. Just cut the (will verify wire colors) wires and splice them to the connector (p/n: 12085498)
You will need 1/2" NPT hose pipe adapters to fit into the trans (may be different, 5/16" NPT) with 5/16" hose to mate up to your OEM cooler lines. Just use a pipe cutter, about 3" of 5/16" hose and four hose clamps and it will seal up fine.
I used my HPTuners software to delete all the references to the A4 trans and it has worked great, you can also use a manual trans program or ECM, but the speedo signal will need to be multiplied by 2.5 to read correctly.
If you use the OEM park/neutral safety wires (connect together purple and dark green) and the reverse wires (connect together brown and light green), the computer will know the trans is in a drive gear.
My driveshaft was made by Wenco Industries and the length was exactly 44" using a KTRE 12-bolt with 1350 yokes, spicer u-joints.
My shifter of choice was a B&M Quicksilver for positive gear selections, it works better than OEM.
I will be adding a B&M Trans cooler with integral fan to keep the trans fluid cool
I also used the BMR X-treme torque arm, it comes with a driveshaft loop so don't purchase one seperately.
You use only five (5) bolt to secure the trans to the engine, left three and right two. The middle top bolt is not used, not are the bottom two. Only the one next to the alignment pins and the upper left one.
A 1998 flexplate can be used with an SBC converter, you'll need 1/8" space or washers.
You will need (if you use an SBC converter) at least a 7/8 pilot spacer (B&M p/n: 2801054-19, not sure if we sell it individually)
Do not use Lokar Firewall mount dipstick (p/n: TD-3350400FM), it is too short and will end up under the cowl, hard to reach for filling up the trans/checking fluid level. It can be done though.
Use the speedometer items from a 3L80 (3 speed trans) truck, part numbers were previously posted (GM# 8655291, 8655315), they work perfectly on ex-A4 cars. Just cut the (will verify wire colors) wires and splice them to the connector (p/n: 12085498)
You will need 1/2" NPT hose pipe adapters to fit into the trans (may be different, 5/16" NPT) with 5/16" hose to mate up to your OEM cooler lines. Just use a pipe cutter, about 3" of 5/16" hose and four hose clamps and it will seal up fine.
I used my HPTuners software to delete all the references to the A4 trans and it has worked great, you can also use a manual trans program or ECM, but the speedo signal will need to be multiplied by 2.5 to read correctly.
If you use the OEM park/neutral safety wires (connect together purple and dark green) and the reverse wires (connect together brown and light green), the computer will know the trans is in a drive gear.
My driveshaft was made by Wenco Industries and the length was exactly 44" using a KTRE 12-bolt with 1350 yokes, spicer u-joints.
My shifter of choice was a B&M Quicksilver for positive gear selections, it works better than OEM.
I will be adding a B&M Trans cooler with integral fan to keep the trans fluid cool
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The link for the wiring there is also pics I posted how the shifter cable bracket goes
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
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10-4 rubber ducky. i looked up it up there and holy **** theres alot more to do the what i reallized, but its got to be done. one thing i miss about the old day car. **** was simple and most parts bolted right up.
again thanks for the info dnkynrbk!!!
if anyone can think of anything he might of missed (and the way its looking he didnt miss a thing) please post up. im all ears
again thanks for the info dnkynrbk!!!
if anyone can think of anything he might of missed (and the way its looking he didnt miss a thing) please post up. im all ears