How to install a torque converter
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 4
sorry bout the late response its been crunch time with school and finals this week...the converter was seated properly i could get the alignment of the block to the tranny housing...it turns out that after meeting up with the tranny guys they pointed out that the seal were hub of the converter goes into needed to be replaced. and not the pump. i gave wrong info.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 4
it still at the shop waiting on the converter to come back but i just sent it last thursday so it might be a week or so...the tranny guys said that the seal were the hub goes into need to be replaced and that the hub on the vert needed to get looked at. I thought it something major but it all little stuff right and hopefully stays that way.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 4
I got it back from the shop not to long ago they did all the hard work but thanks for droping a line...I'm hoping that they did it right but now my park dosen't want to stay in park..I might of done something to the cable when I was lowring the trans trying to put the vert in. Any how the car is back and very close to getting started just waiting on a few things..
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: LA.
ur engine should be tilted downwards cuz it has nothing holding the back up. So you need to tilt ur transmission belhousing upwards. And make sure u have the converter all the way in.
I have had the best luck by putting trans jack up tight but not lifting trans and motor, just tighten it up, then remove cross member, lower it enough to get top bolts out or in, then raise it back to the highth were it sat on cross member. Now, put a small vertical jack under oil pan with a thick wide board to keep from damaging pan. Now you can take out the rest of the bell housing bolts and converter bolts or put them in. So when you are lifting the trans back in, everything is level. When putting them in, put just the two bolts in each side of bell housing, align converter, bolt it on. Trans should go up against block fairly easy sense you put the jack under oil pan. This will give you two different ways of adjustments if needed. One with the trans jack and one with the block if you need any at all. When converter is on you can now take the jack out from under the block and let trans down a little to be able to reach top bolt to bell housing much easier. Also getting the mount that holds the breather hose goes on the top bolt as well. Put dip stick in then the fluid lines because lines are always in the way if you put them on first before dip stick. At least they are for me. Hope this double jack method helps to align a little easier.
I have had the best luck by putting trans jack up tight but not lifting trans and motor, just tighten it up, then remove cross member, lower it enough to get top bolts out or in, then raise it back to the highth were it sat on cross member. Now, put a small vertical jack under oil pan with a thick wide board to keep from damaging pan. Now you can take out the rest of the bell housing bolts and converter bolts or put them in. So when you are lifting the trans back in, everything is level. When putting them in, put just the two bolts in each side of bell housing, align converter, bolt it on. Trans should go up against block fairly easy sense you put the jack under oil pan. This will give you two different ways of adjustments if needed. One with the trans jack and one with the block if you need any at all. When converter is on you can now take the jack out from under the block and let trans down a little to be able to reach top bolt to bell housing much easier. Also getting the mount that holds the breather hose goes on the top bolt as well. Put dip stick in then the fluid lines because lines are always in the way if you put them on first before dip stick. At least they are for me. Hope this double jack method helps to align a little easier.
