I'm a newby the power...had a V6 95 Camaro torture chamber for 9 years, and I finally got the V8....so now tell me how to do it properly from the line. Do you power brake it up to 2000rpm and then hit it, or something else? ANother question. Does it hurt the Tranny to downshift from OD-D-D2? What about slipping it into neutral for an occasional rev while your riding?

 

well, if you rev it to 2000 while staging, you will spin the tires lol. before my stall, i always (depending on available tracton) would load up to about 1200 RPM's and the either smash it or go half throttle or so until i had good traction and then smash it. but it realy depends on how well your car hooks up. But with a good trac and some good DR's you will be able to heat them up and then stage up to 12oo then burry it and pull 1.9-2.0's all day, then after you get through playing around with it you will see the need for a stall convertor. As far as manual shofting goes, you can go from 4th to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th, but dont go near 2nd, you will **** hammer you tranny after a while if you do. but im as guilty as anyone else of doing it. As far as dropping to nuetral to do a revup, you shouldnt have any problems as long as you make sure to be completley off the gas before you shift and that its down bellow 700 rpm or whatever your normal idle rpm's are. Other than that, Have fun with the extra power.

 

It all depends whether you are trying to launch on a surface that is well prepped like a track or if you are simply launching on the street. When at the track I simply rev it up to about 1200 with my foot on the brake then I mash the pedal as soon as it goes green. Not much science to it when you go to a well prepped track, I was able to pull 2.0-2.1s with this method on regular street tires.

As far as the street goes its a whole new ball game, especially with colder weather. I would not advise trying to stall it up on the street because you will find yourself spinning a lot. I try to just ease into it on the street for the best results. But like chis said it just depends on how your car hooks up. I would suggest just to go out somewhere and practice to see whatever works well for you. Good luck with your car and have some fun.

 

my 4000 vig would alow me to get to about 3500 brake stall then mash the gas and hang on for the ride of ur life.

roll around the water....back up...spin the tires to get'em wet...pull out..put in 2nd bring revs to around 5K untill they start goint up (5-10seconds) then roll out w/ur foot n the gass to "Clean" the tires......stage....stall up..when the 3rd yellow drops nail that sucker...

 

Thanks for the suggestions,
Couple more simple questions....What is a stall converter and what are the advantages, and then I noticed I have that Auburn Traction Control on the Hawk. Now should I be racing with that one or off. To me it seems like the car has more punch off the line with it off. What What about a line lock? Is that worth it?
Shippershack

 

i wouldnt really worry about a line lock just yet,

definatly turn it off

a converter is a must for racing an auto.. if you have raced your v8 before, you will notice that when you shift to 1-2 or 2-3 you car will rev up to 7 or whatever you shift point is then shift and go way back down to like 4k, it sounds like it boggs down also.. with a convertor when you hit the gas, it will go straight up to 4,000 rpms and up to 7 then shift back down to like 5700 to keep you at max power


and i think on a stock conv, when you hit the gas it only goes up to like 1,700 rpm's

hope that helps

 

Just a quick tip.....DO NOT spin your tires over in the water box....you can back into it slightly to get a little water on them but if you turn them over in the waterbox it will sling water into your wheel wells and potentially drip onto the tires at the line and cause you to spin.




Will

 

personally when i roll through the water box (cant go around it at L.I.D.) i blip the throttle to briefly spin and thus coat the tires and then roll forward out of the water about a foot and commence the burnout...ive NEVER had a problem with slinging water up into anything. Except for the one time i didnt roll up far enough and burned out in the water, ive really never had a problem hooking at all...

also like was stated, a high stall converter will make your camaro feel like a completely different car, its THE mod for an auto...

 

some guy i remember on this site.......a newbie..felt kinda bad for him....went through the water and did a 18 sec 1/4 mile not knowing what was wrong...took it to the track again and ran igh 13-low 14 i 4get......i believe that the best track launch tho is powerbrake 1200 rpms and mayb 3/4 throttle...then smash it whn your tires are hookin pretty good....i remmeber doing that on the street....racing a Stang...didnt hook the best off the line bcuz of the power breaking....but as soon as i had smashed it...my tires instantly grabbed...and they grabbed HARD....i assume the track woulda made a big difference like every1 has stated...but yest...1200 rpm power braking i heard is the best

 

I don't do my burnout in the water box..that's just plain stupid...i said back up spin to get the tires a bit wet...roll forward..put car in 2nd...mash the brake and gas..bring r's up to 5K...as soon as they start to go up roll out of the burn to clean the tires....stage...put the selector in OD and stall up...when 3rd yellow drops...hang on...you'll either be planted in ur seat w/a nice view of the strip or in my case and some others you will see the horizon for about a few seconds....just hang on and have fun...that's all this sport is about...fun.

 

I wasn't saying you were doing the burnout in the waterbox...but you said "Roll around the waterbox....back up and spin the tires to get them wet" and by doing that you fling water into your wheel well. That water then can drip down onto your tires at the line and cause you to spin

 

eh...anytime you have water on ur tires and do a burnout you will have slight drippage...that's why I back up..just put a lil water on the tires and do my thing..to each his own tho right? i'm not the master neither are you...we could both be wrong...those techniques have worked and worked well.

 

i was always told to use D and not OD to make the actual pass....i cant remember why exactly but i know ive heard that more than a few times....

 

yes its better to run the pass in D because it will shift firmer from 2-3, than if you were in OD.

 

on a full 1/4 run ur car will hit 4th gear.....if not ur bending pushrods boucing off the revlimiter. "D" in a 1/4 mile pass won't have enough gear unless u have 2.73's....

 

im sorry, but thats most definitely NOT true....only M6s require 4th for a quarter mile pass....

it works out the same....both my car and an M6 have 3.42s and both finish the quarter in a 1:1 gear ratio....

i have 50 passes on my car with the 3.42s.....4th gear is not necessary.

 

I agree with Deep Blue. I finish in 3rd with a 3:73 rear. But I prefer to race in OD. I've tried both and I really didn't time a difference.
But it all depends on trap speed. I'm at 116 mph and still no overdrive, but it will be close soon, more power comming

 

I was told your car won't shift to fourth on a WoT run until somewhere around 130mph in a A4. Since the 4L60E is not going to handle the kind of power it would take to make 130 mph traps then we are all safe to run in D or 3rd gear. I did it and was no where even close to redline at the 105ish mph mark.

 

just do a good John Force burnout, stage and flash that sucker off idle and hold on.....ps, NOT WITH A STOCK 10 BOLT

 

Full throttle in neutral to about 6,000 rpm, count to 10 slowly, while still at full throttle, pull shifter quickly into Reverse and then instantly into Drive...sort of like using a two step and a trans brake without the expense!!! Works great for the ricer cars I have seen