01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I do not recommend the 90 degree after an adapter fitting on the trans. The 45s seemed perfect. The reason is because you have a huge bellhousing right there, and a dipstick tube that has to go back in.....and space is tight.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

I have the 70274 mounted "dope style" underneath the passenger side fog light.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Did you cut the shrouding and such? I did not want to drill into the bumper and have my cooler hanging down. Its a judgement call on whether it will fit or not. I say it doesn't.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

I trimmed the plastic , it sits flush where the plastic trim used to be. During the next round of mods though, I will replace the plastic and mount it in front of the radiator. I don't particularly like it there.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

^^ pics or it didnt happen

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

Pics !!!!!

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

so with everything added up it comes to around 100 bucks on summit's website. not a bad deal for cheap insurance against your rubber line blowing

bmf5150

I ran -6 for mine as well

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I did something similar.. but used some Stainless Steel 3/8" Tubing along with Russell Fitting, AN adapter and Stainless Steel Braided Hose.

I used the Russell Transmission adapter to AN -6 and not -8 as you did.

I use a short 9" Russell Teflon Lined SS Braided Hose with AN -6 Hose Ends (45* on the trans end and 90* on the Hardline end). This will connect to the SS 3/8" Tube that runs just right of the Trans, along the top of the Sub frame rails to the run just short of the Radiator.

Then some more 3/9" SS Braided Teflon line hose with AN -6 Hose ends. I ran the feed hose to the Radiator Trans cooler and then ran it to the BM Cooler that was mounted up front, all connected with the same SS Braided Teflon Hose and AN -6 Hose ends..

You can see my setup in by build thread (link in the sig).

BC

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

First and only location was the standard "in front of the condenser". Air would pull up from the bottom deflector and up into the plastic shrouding tunnel that gives it no where to go except through the condenser then radiator. Sticking it here was one of your only options. I made some changes, tubular bumper supports and a ram air setup. Figured the cooler had to move, bumper was now empty, it made perfect sense. Fabbed up the mounts, cut a section of "camaro" out behind the billet grill and wala. Cooler is being blasted with cold air from the front of the vehicle. First drives, the temps went way up. I realized the air is likely bypassing the cooler because of positive pressure in the bumper. So with no more modding, seems the fan is the quickest and easiest fix.

Here's the new setup mounted: (And I'm glad I left the extra length of hose attached, it has come in handy several times)



Here is looking up from the creeper. I cut that upward flap in the bumper off, and cut a cooler size hole in the front of the bumper so air can get in and out....or so I thought.



Looking a little more forward you can see the front air opening. What was happening was the air being picked up from the underside air dam was trying to find a place to go and I think was putting positive pressure through the rear of the bumper. Now if the front entrance air, and the underside entrance air are traveling at roughly the same velocity then they cancel each other out when they meet from different directions. Obviously the fan will correct this issue. Originally the cooler was mounted directly behind the grille to minimize air being able to sneak around it instead of through it. The brackets I had made and the fan weren't jiving so I had to make new ones so I decided to pull the cooler back some. Since it isn't dependent on natural moving air I figured pulling it back some wouldn't hurt.

Gabe02ws6

I did 8AN braided lines on my th350. 1/4 trans fitting ran 90 degree fittings off the tranny.



Tranny lines loom to close to the flex plate so I remounted them in a better location.



29000 tranny cooler

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Just ordered all this again for my built trans in my yukon. Total at summit was $265, fittings on ebay were $12. Ouch.

Can save yourself buying the AN line off ebay (save $20) and cross number for the cooler is Tru-Cool H7B which is about $30 cheaper then it labeled as B+M.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Old thread, giving it a bump.

I need to change the lines on my 2000 SIlverado. You said that you were going to do the same thing you did to your camaro to your Yukon. I'm wondering if you ever did and how that went. Your shopping list is super helpful and I just took all of your part numbers and threw them into an excel spreadsheet.

2 -8 AN x 1/4 NPS trans cooler fitting 12 24
1 B&M 70274 SuperCooler 133.42 133.42
2 Summit Racing® Hose Ends SUM-220886B 14.97 29.94
1 Summit Racing® Stainless Steel Hose SUM-230820 84.97 84.97
2 Summit Racing® Hose Ends SUM-240103B 9.97 19.94
2 Summit Racing® Hose Ends SUM-240110B 16.97 33.94
2 Summit Racing® AN Hose End Wrenches SUM-900108 10.97 21.94

I wish these AN fitting weren't like greek to me. I'm gonna try to do some shopping around because this came to $348.15.

The last two fittings you said were optional. Which did you use for your Yukon?

Thanks for the help.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You wanna run -6 or -8? What cooler? Can get an off brand for cheaper. Give me till tomorrow and I will get you a cheaper list in whatever size you want.

mrvedit

IMHO -6 AN is plenty big and will save some money and be easier to route.
IIRC the factory line is 5/16" and since -6AN is 3/8" that will have 50% more flow than the factory line.

jakeshoe

iTrader: (14)

Not to mention it can cause issues.

epfatboy

iTrader: (3)

I ran 6an to mine and temps are fine under any driving condition with a 3800 stall. I have 2 90's at the cooler also.

Not sure about 8 causing problems, got any specifics?

AN fittings are a YouTube video away from understanding them. Get a Kool Tool, makes putting them together real easy.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Fitting and hose price differences are negligible, and so is physical hose size.

Like? Obviously it would flow a ton more (open hose) but at the end of the day it only flows as much as the circuit allows......which is probably gonna be the plate cooler. A river only flows as much as the dam is open kinda thing.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

That does make sense. I would agree that the cooler is probably the restriction. But if everybody is running -6 maybe that's the way to go?

I'm not set on a cooler just yet, I don't know what I can run and what can fit without fabbing brackets. Right now I have a pretty cheap one, don't recall the specifics. It is what Performabuilt supplied with my transmission so I just used it. It just has two hose barbs on it. So I tied into my factory lines with with hose and clamp as well. I didn't feel great about it but it has held up, though I have to say it looks like absolute ***. I switched to electric fans and there is a ton of room in front of the engine. The only thing there are these awkward looking old lines with rubber hose on them, just kind of dangling there.

Anyone have any cooler recommendations? 5,500lb truck, 3,200 RPM stall, sees light towing?

I think I'm gonna bypass the factory rad/cooler this time.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Here's the camaro coolers, Y on feed and return, plumbed with 8, fans on top.



Here's the yukon, plumbed in 8: