DD Stall
#1
Staging Lane
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DD Stall
I was thinking about getting a stall for my 98 Z28 not to big just something better than stock. Having to launch under 1500 because it just tries to do a burnout if any higher but this is a daily driver also. And of course I still have the 10 bolt with 4.10 gears so I'm kinda worried about busting the rear axle with the stall and ETs. What stall would yall suggest anyway?
#3
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10 bolts hold together very well behind a A4.
You stated it's a daily driver, but you didn't state any other intentions, dragstrip, roadracing ?
A stall is nothing more than slippage vs. resistance. For example a 3000 stall with 3.23s' and changing the gears to 2.73s',that 3000 stall would feel like a 3500 stall,changing the gears to 3.73s',that 3000 stall would feel like a 2500 stall.
When I changed my stall from OEM 1800 to TCI 2800(OEM 3.23s'),it felt 'loose' but didn't take long to get used to. When I changed my OEM 3.23s' to 4.56s' that 2800 stall felt/feels as tight as the OEM 1800. Planning on putting in a Yank SS 3600 this weekend.
Since you're running 4.10s' ( good to see 4.10s' in a A4), don't waste your time & money on anything below 3000. A CircleD or Yank in the 3200 range would be a minimum.
the consensus rule of thumb for a convertor,"whatever size you think is best for you,go more"
wanting a 2800 means you'll regret not getting a 3200,or a 3500,or 3600.
go get/take some rides in variously stalled cars.
You stated it's a daily driver, but you didn't state any other intentions, dragstrip, roadracing ?
A stall is nothing more than slippage vs. resistance. For example a 3000 stall with 3.23s' and changing the gears to 2.73s',that 3000 stall would feel like a 3500 stall,changing the gears to 3.73s',that 3000 stall would feel like a 2500 stall.
When I changed my stall from OEM 1800 to TCI 2800(OEM 3.23s'),it felt 'loose' but didn't take long to get used to. When I changed my OEM 3.23s' to 4.56s' that 2800 stall felt/feels as tight as the OEM 1800. Planning on putting in a Yank SS 3600 this weekend.
Since you're running 4.10s' ( good to see 4.10s' in a A4), don't waste your time & money on anything below 3000. A CircleD or Yank in the 3200 range would be a minimum.
the consensus rule of thumb for a convertor,"whatever size you think is best for you,go more"
wanting a 2800 means you'll regret not getting a 3200,or a 3500,or 3600.
go get/take some rides in variously stalled cars.
#7
Staging Lane
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This is a street car that sees about 20-30 miles a day round trip. I would also like to go to the drag strip maybe once a month and do test and tune maybe bracket racing. But this mostly will be streecar for daily comutes and road trips from time to time. Car is all stock would like to do headers and cam this winter.
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#8
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Get a 4000 stall with those gears. With my 3.15s my 3600 stall drives great around town. It literally took me about 15 minutes to get used to it. Hell my mom has drove it a few times and hasn't complained a bit about it.
#10
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"This is a street car that sees about 20-30 miles a day round trip"
Your freeway mpg is about 22 with the 4.10s', and a 'lockup' stall will have NO effect on that.
My freeway mpg is 21.5 with the 4.56s',and even took 4 trips from Cleveland Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
MPG is RIGHT FOOT DEPENDENT.
Your freeway mpg is about 22 with the 4.10s', and a 'lockup' stall will have NO effect on that.
My freeway mpg is 21.5 with the 4.56s',and even took 4 trips from Cleveland Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
MPG is RIGHT FOOT DEPENDENT.
#13
Staging Lane
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Firstyrls1z you are dead on the car gets 22 mpg the car shifts hard into 2nd gear at 2 grand so I ease in too it until it shifts then get on it drops to 17 or so if I get on it from stop and spins bad. I run 26x10.5 DRs at the track then I run 235.60s on the street. Want to go to a taller wider rear tire for street. How wide can you go a stock 16in wheel.
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"This is a street car that sees about 20-30 miles a day round trip"
Your freeway mpg is about 22 with the 4.10s', and a 'lockup' stall will have NO effect on that.
My freeway mpg is 21.5 with the 4.56s',and even took 4 trips from Cleveland Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
MPG is RIGHT FOOT DEPENDENT.
Your freeway mpg is about 22 with the 4.10s', and a 'lockup' stall will have NO effect on that.
My freeway mpg is 21.5 with the 4.56s',and even took 4 trips from Cleveland Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
MPG is RIGHT FOOT DEPENDENT.
#16
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8 long trips (1100 miles) with my OEM 3.23s' gave consistent 24.5 freeway/cruise-control mpg,4 more identical trips with 4.56s' gave 21.5 mpg.
Theoretically,based on ratio change,it should have been 18 mpg. The higher numerical gearing gives the engine a better mechanical advantage over the vehicle which in turn means less engine loading. As engine load changes so does the air/fuel ratio. Wide open throttle put the highest load on the engine and the computor richens it up. Freeway cruise-control with 4.56s' has a very low load on the engine and the computor causes a leaner condition,but still within factory parameters.
One of the most useful additions to my 98Z was a ScanGaugeII which shows true RPM,true MPH,intake temp,true water temp,MPG,engine load,throttle position,manifold pressure,to name some.
Theoretically,based on ratio change,it should have been 18 mpg. The higher numerical gearing gives the engine a better mechanical advantage over the vehicle which in turn means less engine loading. As engine load changes so does the air/fuel ratio. Wide open throttle put the highest load on the engine and the computor richens it up. Freeway cruise-control with 4.56s' has a very low load on the engine and the computor causes a leaner condition,but still within factory parameters.
One of the most useful additions to my 98Z was a ScanGaugeII which shows true RPM,true MPH,intake temp,true water temp,MPG,engine load,throttle position,manifold pressure,to name some.