Urgent!!!! Powerglide to lq4 problem---SOLVED---
#1
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I got ready to mate my powerglide with my LQ4, and I was to believe that the converter was made to fit a LS flexplate. But I am obviously wrong. Heres some background info about it to help diagnose:
-When the converter is seated from the bolt locaions on the converter to the face of the bellhousing is 1" to 1 1/8"
-My flexplate is a PRW LS SFI approved flexplate
-When the flexplate is bolted it does not align with the starter, looks like the flexplate sits about 3/8" to far back.
- The nose of the converter DOES fit into the stock LQ4 crank fine.
When I tried to mate the two together the converter would hit the flexplate leaving about 1/2"-5/8" gap from the block to the bellhousing.
I supplyed 7 picture of everything i think you all would need to see to let me know what the hell is going on. Is the converter not made for LS flexplate, and i need the adapter, or is the flexplate not right?????
-When the converter is seated from the bolt locaions on the converter to the face of the bellhousing is 1" to 1 1/8"
-My flexplate is a PRW LS SFI approved flexplate
-When the flexplate is bolted it does not align with the starter, looks like the flexplate sits about 3/8" to far back.
- The nose of the converter DOES fit into the stock LQ4 crank fine.
When I tried to mate the two together the converter would hit the flexplate leaving about 1/2"-5/8" gap from the block to the bellhousing.
I supplyed 7 picture of everything i think you all would need to see to let me know what the hell is going on. Is the converter not made for LS flexplate, and i need the adapter, or is the flexplate not right?????
Last edited by BlackWS666; 06-05-2011 at 03:40 PM.
#3
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The flexplate bows outwards from the motor. If it would help i will mate them together and show you the problem. The converter goes into the crank about 1/2" and the tabs on the converter are seated to the flexplate. But the bellhousing is not even close to the block, 5/8" probably.
#4
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i may be missing something here..but the problem looks to be with the flywheel and not the converter...i just finished a glide in my 01 ss...my flywheel isnt nearly so far out the back as yours....almost looks like its on backwards...otherwise it looks to be the wrong flywheel...the depth measurement on the converte face to bell face looks about right
#11
TECH Veteran
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here is what i suspect-you have either a "long" crank, or .400 spacer on it
a "short" crank or no spacer will stick past the rear seal just a tiny bit, less than 1/8" roughly
since the converter regis in the crank, it isnt LS style, more like stock specs
you need a stock 4L80E flywheel, if its a long style crank-if it is a rem. spacer, you can get one of the after market ones, like from TCI, they are thicker and have their own spacer
the spacers have 2 threaded holes, you can screw 2 bolts in and it will pull it off
going from memory, i believe the correct flywheel spacing for the starter will be aprx 7/16", meas from the back ot the block to the back of the starter ring
on the flywheel
i have a stock spacer and flywheel laying around if you need a pic
a "short" crank or no spacer will stick past the rear seal just a tiny bit, less than 1/8" roughly
since the converter regis in the crank, it isnt LS style, more like stock specs
you need a stock 4L80E flywheel, if its a long style crank-if it is a rem. spacer, you can get one of the after market ones, like from TCI, they are thicker and have their own spacer
the spacers have 2 threaded holes, you can screw 2 bolts in and it will pull it off
going from memory, i believe the correct flywheel spacing for the starter will be aprx 7/16", meas from the back ot the block to the back of the starter ring
on the flywheel
i have a stock spacer and flywheel laying around if you need a pic
#12
TECH Veteran
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re reading your post, it sounds like the trans bellhousing doesnt reach the engine after converter registers in crank? my stock spacer has 8 holes, 2 are threaded, your end of the crank has 7, one prob for a dowell pin nobody uses, lol-so i think you have a long crank?
w/o the flywheel, if the converter/trans wont bolt up(converter seated all the way) my guess is the converter is for an LS-lay a straight edge across the mtg pads, meas up to the end of the snout
w/o the flywheel, if the converter/trans wont bolt up(converter seated all the way) my guess is the converter is for an LS-lay a straight edge across the mtg pads, meas up to the end of the snout
#13
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re reading your post, it sounds like the trans bellhousing doesnt reach the engine after converter registers in crank? my stock spacer has 8 holes, 2 are threaded, your end of the crank has 7, one prob for a dowell pin nobody uses, lol-so i think you have a long crank?
w/o the flywheel, if the converter/trans wont bolt up(converter seated all the way) my guess is the converter is for an LS-lay a straight edge across the mtg pads, meas up to the end of the snout
w/o the flywheel, if the converter/trans wont bolt up(converter seated all the way) my guess is the converter is for an LS-lay a straight edge across the mtg pads, meas up to the end of the snout
#14
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Problem solved!! The problem was my crank was sticking out .500/.525" from the block. Where as most others only stick out .300" or so. Chris from Circle-D helped me solve the problem, and ended up sending me a CRS flexplate with a spacer, and shims for the converter. Bolted it on about a hour ago, and is worked perfect. The highest of props to Chris!!!!!
If i ever buy anything else to do with a transmission, Chris will be the first one I call period!!!!!
If i ever buy anything else to do with a transmission, Chris will be the first one I call period!!!!!
#15
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What do I do if I need an SFI approved flexplate?
Would I just use this flexplate but not use the spacer that it comes with, since my crank is long and essentially has the built in spacer already?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-399754/?rtype=10
Last edited by SATAN; 11-04-2011 at 10:02 PM.