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What to expect after 3600 stall install

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LS-ONE_DAY
Do you have a Yank SS3600?

I am thinking somewhere between a 3200-3600 for myself either Yank or CD, problem is that while I want a 3600 the cams I am looking at are better at midrange and ramp up faster so I don't want to lose useable power by going with a higher stall. My DD has a little issue where at a light when it turns green I'll press the gas and the car doesn't want to move sometimes until I add pressure to the pedal, I look at it as training for when the new TC is purchases for the Formula
Yes its a ss3600
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #22  
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I think I am going to be the sole person on here that doesn't really care for my stall.

I am running a Yank SS4000 with a built trans and bolt ons/exhaust. I have been running it untuned for a little bit(waiting for my cam install to pay for dyno tune) and here is my take.

If you are trying to go fast in a straight line...Stalled Auto all the way. I've beaten cars on the street that I really really shouldn't be beating ever since I've been running this stall.

HOWEVER...if you drive the car alot just around town or on twisty roads, or whatever...it's sort of a headache...I mean sure it makes the car alot faster at WOT...but you lose so much low and mid range pull because the converter is unlocked most of the time...so now when you pass someone in a 30mph zone you are forced to give it enough throttle to flash so you can get around them and you look like a pretentious douchebag flooring it everywhere...

I don't like the way it feels pulling away from stoplights, or how it likes to roll backwards a little bit on hills, or the fact that you're constantly turning more RPM than you would with a stock converter, or the fact that the thing will randomly come unlocked when you're doing 80 on the freeway with the cruise on and now you're doing 3200RPM instead of 2200-2400 so your mileage goes south(this may be changed with a tune), and I just in general don't like that when I drive around town it sounds like i'm driving a car with a slightly slipping transmission...and it somewhat feels like it too.

I know a lot of my discomfort with this stall is somewhat the fault of the trans I was running. It wasn't built quite so well the first time it was built so it felt extremely loose...but even now with my trans that is built properly...it's just not that fun unless you're racing. I'm in the process of swapping to M6
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #23  
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Maybe you should have just swapped to a 3200 or lower.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Sir
Maybe you should have just swapped to a 3200 or lower.
I am in the process of trading now. I will check back in with my thoughts on a smaller converter. I think 3200 would be right about perfect for my setup. The 4000 is a little much to daily drive considering I almost never race anymore.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #25  
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Great info, as i drive my car daily and was thinking about buying a stall
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:20 AM
  #26  
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if you have the money to rebuild the trans and beef it up do it, trust me, my transmission shifted fine before i put in my yank 3600 now it has a little lag shifting into 3rd racing at the track, i think i'm going to get a 4l80e and do the swap
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #27  
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Before I discovered this site I read on other searchs/forums about stalls. I read alot about how a 28-3200 stall is great and is almost too much for a dd bolt-on car, and it made sense. I joined this site and everyone runs a 3600 or higher stall. And the regrets of not going higher with their stall choice. Still confused on which one I want.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #28  
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quick question guys. I have a Vig 4400 and i feel the same way that
TwitchZ28 feels about his stall. Everything he said is pretty much more or less the same thing that i have noticed and hate about my stall. Now, my question is, ive heard that Vig and other quality stall companies offer a one time free Re-stall. what do i have to do to get it restalled to a 3600 or so? Do i contact them and send it in? and do i need to have the recipt? Ive had this stall for about 4-5 years, unfortunality, the trans went out not long after i put it in so the stall only has less than 3k miles...Thanks
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by optiplex
quick question guys. I have a Vig 4400 and i feel the same way that
TwitchZ28 feels about his stall. Everything he said is pretty much more or less the same thing that i have noticed and hate about my stall. Now, my question is, ive heard that Vig and other quality stall companies offer a one time free Re-stall. what do i have to do to get it restalled to a 3600 or so? Do i contact them and send it in? and do i need to have the recipt? Ive had this stall for about 4-5 years, unfortunality, the trans went out not long after i put it in so the stall only has less than 3k miles...Thanks
Don't quote me but I think with Yank it's a 1 year free re-stall or cut and clean. I have no idea about Vig...I wouldn't get your hopes up if it's been 4-5 years though

Just trade someone. I'm trading my Yank4k for a PTC 3200. Straight up and other guy is doing the swap free
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #30  
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daily driver that will have CAI, catback, 75 shot nitrous here and there. Seriously this is how i am going to keep the car. I have a 78 camaro that is my "race car"

so at what rpm stall speed is a pcm tune needed.

i was looking at a 3600, but seems reviews are mixed on a daily driver.

what is the max stall speed WITHOUT A PCM TUNE?

3000, 3200 or 3600?

i was planning on getting a yank.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #31  
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sorry for the necrobump, but i have been searching and not sure which way to go.

i emailed yank and told them my setup but never received an email back.

kind of makes me wonder if their customer service is any good.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #32  
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I've had my ss3600 untuned in my daily driver for a year today. Never a problem. As far as yanks customer service, I've emailed Dave several times, and always get prompt responses even though I didn't buy my converter from him.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #33  
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noted.

i just know what i have read and my experience.

many guys are stating the car goes into limp mode and has shifting issues.

what year car is yours, what gears and mods?
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #34  
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It's a 95 z28. Has long tubes, true duals, cai, the converter and electric water pump. It's only tapped the limiter a couple times on me. I have a driving video on YouTube, just look for my screen name.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #35  
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Expect lower MPG's but if it's not your DD it doesn't matter. Shifts don't "feel" as firm with a higher stall. Mine is a 3K with a built trans. It needs a cam and tune to take full advantage of it but it's still fun.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 02:20 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 01wss6
I have a 3600 vig stall and am about to install it in my stock 4l60e. Just wondering what to expect after the install.
how did the stall intall go, and more importantly did you tune it for the converter or not?

did you have any issues with shift points, check engine lights or transmission damage?
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TwitchZ28
I think I am going to be the sole person on here that doesn't really care for my stall.

I am running a Yank SS4000 with a built trans and bolt ons/exhaust. I have been running it untuned for a little bit(waiting for my cam install to pay for dyno tune) and here is my take.

If you are trying to go fast in a straight line...Stalled Auto all the way. I've beaten cars on the street that I really really shouldn't be beating ever since I've been running this stall.

HOWEVER...if you drive the car alot just around town or on twisty roads, or whatever...it's sort of a headache...I mean sure it makes the car alot faster at WOT...but you lose so much low and mid range pull because the converter is unlocked most of the time...so now when you pass someone in a 30mph zone you are forced to give it enough throttle to flash so you can get around them and you look like a pretentious douchebag flooring it everywhere...

I don't like the way it feels pulling away from stoplights, or how it likes to roll backwards a little bit on hills, or the fact that you're constantly turning more RPM than you would with a stock converter, or the fact that the thing will randomly come unlocked when you're doing 80 on the freeway with the cruise on and now you're doing 3200RPM instead of 2200-2400 so your mileage goes south(this may be changed with a tune), and I just in general don't like that when I drive around town it sounds like i'm driving a car with a slightly slipping transmission...and it somewhat feels like it too.

I know a lot of my discomfort with this stall is somewhat the fault of the trans I was running. It wasn't built quite so well the first time it was built so it felt extremely loose...but even now with my trans that is built properly...it's just not that fun unless you're racing. I'm in the process of swapping to M6
This is exactly the kind of stuff I was worried about, but since I've heard so many things about how awesome and fun stalled autos are I still wasn't sure what route I wanted to take. Now I'm positive that I'll either be swapping out my A4 to an M6 or just getting an M6 car eventually.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #38  
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Default stall speed converters

Lots of people always over stalled the car, bigger is not always better. You always want to match the converter with the cam. For example, if the cam starts at 2500 that's where you should have your convertor, especially if it is a Street car and you like to drive it every day. Some people go with a higher stall, but it is a weekend warrior and they don't care too much about drivability. Just my two cents.
Maddogtransmissions owner MaddogLou. PS Vengeance racing Does all our tunes they do an excellent job!

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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by maddoglou454
Lots of people always over stalled the car, bigger is not always better. You always want to match the converter with the cam. For example, if the cam starts at 2500 that's where you should have your convertor, especially if it is a Street car and you like to drive it every day. Some people go with a higher stall, but it is a weekend warrior and they don't care too much about drivability. Just my two cents.
Maddogtransmissions owner MaddogLou. PS Vengeance racing Does all our tunes they do an excellent job!

Web: www.maddogtransmissions.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/maddogtransmissions
Twitter: www.twitter.com/maddoglou
YouTube: www.youtube.com/maddogtransmissions
yeah im getting a Yank SS.

its going to be a bolt on car at most.

but still on the fence on 3200 or 3600.

3.23 gears, cold air intake, catback exhaust, 75-100 dry hit, drag radials and tune is all i plan on doing to it...

replace things as they break... lol.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #40  
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Ive had my stall in the car for almost a year and love it. I had it tuned when I first put it in and the shift points were screwed up but when I did heads and cam the tune came out a lot better. It still needs some fine tuning for when I let off the throttle completely and the converter unlocks but wont lock again after accelerating. I have to hit the brake and then the continue with the gas and it will lock again its not really a big deal. No check engine lights just passed emissions two weeks ago and it is strong off the line in drive and in the other gears through stock trans stock 3.23s.
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