And my 4L80E swap begins
03-12-2012, 10:21 AM
#123
It will escape out the reverse side because we remove the center seal in the drum for the "dual feed" modification.
Normal, our separator plate blocks the leak here.
Normal, our separator plate blocks the leak here.
03-13-2012, 08:07 PM
#125
Alright, hadn't had much time to work on the car. Have to finish the motorcycle I'm working on at my in-laws, so I can get it out of their garage. And......My wife and I just found out today that we're having triplets!! We've known for 4 weeks now that she's been pregnant, but went to the Dr. today for the first visit and she wanted an ultrasound to make sure everything was alright since her last pregnancy was a miscarriage. Well, to our surprise there was 3 little ones in there. Kinda a game changer when you were expecting only 1, lol. I'm ecstatic, but don't know if I'll be keeping the car for much longer. Either way, now I gotta get this thing done ASAP.
03-19-2012, 09:28 AM
#127
Thank you!
Ok, been a hectic week. Didn't have a chance to touch the car, but should have a day or two this week to work on it. But, the other day I had an idea about the transbrake switch. I've been trying to figure where to put it, so that I don't accidentally hit it but also have quick access to shift it out of first. I got to reminiscing about my first vehicle, a 1987 ford f-150. And, for whatever reason, I remember the bright light switch was a push button switch on the floorboard (as are a lot of them in older vehicles). Well I got to figuring "why not do that with the transbrake". First thought that came to mind was what if I accidentally hit the switch? Then I figured I'd just copy my line lock and wire in an activation switch. So, I bought one of those $5 push button/momentary starter switches, and a flat toggle switch from autozone. I'm gonna drill and mount the push button switch on the "dead pedal" and then wire a good ground to it from the toggle switch, which I will mount on the flat panel under the steering wheel. I think it will work out great, and if not I'll just man up and buy one of those handle switches.
Ok, been a hectic week. Didn't have a chance to touch the car, but should have a day or two this week to work on it. But, the other day I had an idea about the transbrake switch. I've been trying to figure where to put it, so that I don't accidentally hit it but also have quick access to shift it out of first. I got to reminiscing about my first vehicle, a 1987 ford f-150. And, for whatever reason, I remember the bright light switch was a push button switch on the floorboard (as are a lot of them in older vehicles). Well I got to figuring "why not do that with the transbrake". First thought that came to mind was what if I accidentally hit the switch? Then I figured I'd just copy my line lock and wire in an activation switch. So, I bought one of those $5 push button/momentary starter switches, and a flat toggle switch from autozone. I'm gonna drill and mount the push button switch on the "dead pedal" and then wire a good ground to it from the toggle switch, which I will mount on the flat panel under the steering wheel. I think it will work out great, and if not I'll just man up and buy one of those handle switches.
03-19-2012, 06:29 PM
#130
I did make some progress today. Covered the hole where the shifter goes, drilled some holes, got some bolts and spacers for the shifter, and installed the shifter. Looks good and was easier than I thought. Also began wiring and installing the switches for the transbrake. I don't have pics yet, but will when I get it all installed.
03-25-2012, 09:38 AM
#131
Ok, made some progress this week, and also ran into a snag last night trying to install the tranny. I'll get to that later, but let's start out with the switch Idea I had. Like I said, I installed the momentary switch into the dead pedal.
I also installed an activation switch underneath the hatch switch, under the dash. This keeps me from accidentally activating the transbrake if I hit the button with my foot. Tested the wiring and all works well.
Then it was time to fill in the nice hole where the manual shifter was.
That was an in progress pic, as I added more screws and drilled a hole for the shifter cable. It's all buttoned up now and the console is back in. Didn't take any pics as there are plenty of them showing a stock auto console, lol.
Then it was back to the tranny and assembling the VB setup. And as a Hayne's manual would say, installation is essential the reverse of removal. First up was getting the check ***** back in there, with Jake's VB all you need is 4 check ***** in these locations
Then install the Reverse severo, valvebody (new gasket), and parking prawl bracket.
And, with Jake's VB, I needed to add a check ball and spring in this location
Then it was time to install the separator plate included with the VB kit and the pressure switch manifold
Then after that it's the normal things to finish up putting the tranny together
Now, let's talk about the snag I ran into. Got the tranny on the tranny jack and put it up and in the car. Lined it up and started a couple of bolts. After tightening them down, I noticed that the converter was really tight against the flexplate, and couldn't get over the "humps" where the mounting holes were. I took it back off and dropped the tranny down. The converter was properly set in, but I noticed that the mounting tabs on the converter stuck out fairly well.
Now, when I ordered the converter I told Revmax that it's for a 4l80e going into a 4th Gen f-body. There's a good chance that it was probably built with that in mind and they made it to fix with a stock flexplate. I didn't mention that I was using a spacer with the flexplate. So, I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow and find out if they built it with the purpose of not having to use the spacer.
Either way, here's a pic of the converter installed if anyone has an idea if the tabs protrude out farther than normal
I also installed an activation switch underneath the hatch switch, under the dash. This keeps me from accidentally activating the transbrake if I hit the button with my foot. Tested the wiring and all works well.
Then it was time to fill in the nice hole where the manual shifter was.
That was an in progress pic, as I added more screws and drilled a hole for the shifter cable. It's all buttoned up now and the console is back in. Didn't take any pics as there are plenty of them showing a stock auto console, lol.
Then it was back to the tranny and assembling the VB setup. And as a Hayne's manual would say, installation is essential the reverse of removal. First up was getting the check ***** back in there, with Jake's VB all you need is 4 check ***** in these locations
Then install the Reverse severo, valvebody (new gasket), and parking prawl bracket.
And, with Jake's VB, I needed to add a check ball and spring in this location
Then it was time to install the separator plate included with the VB kit and the pressure switch manifold
Then after that it's the normal things to finish up putting the tranny together
Now, let's talk about the snag I ran into. Got the tranny on the tranny jack and put it up and in the car. Lined it up and started a couple of bolts. After tightening them down, I noticed that the converter was really tight against the flexplate, and couldn't get over the "humps" where the mounting holes were. I took it back off and dropped the tranny down. The converter was properly set in, but I noticed that the mounting tabs on the converter stuck out fairly well.
Now, when I ordered the converter I told Revmax that it's for a 4l80e going into a 4th Gen f-body. There's a good chance that it was probably built with that in mind and they made it to fix with a stock flexplate. I didn't mention that I was using a spacer with the flexplate. So, I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow and find out if they built it with the purpose of not having to use the spacer.
Either way, here's a pic of the converter installed if anyone has an idea if the tabs protrude out farther than normal
03-26-2012, 08:59 AM
#132
Talked with Revmax this morning. They didn't build the converter to bolt onto a stock flexplate. They said that the converter isn't on the pump all they way, and there should be 3 distinct clicks to get the converter on. I got two clicks and then it moved about a 1/4" in when I installed it. I only messed with the converter for 15 minutes after taking the trans back out, so looks like I'll be playing with it a little more to get it seated correctly. Man, I guess I'm just too used to manuals, lol.
03-27-2012, 06:18 PM
#133
Transmission is in!!
No pics as I was busy working and forgot the camera again. Finally got the converter seated after a little persuasion with a rubber mallet. Was only able to get 5 bolts in. The 1 o'clock bolt hole didn't line up right, but all the others did.
Other good news is that I don't have to cut the slip yoke down. It slides in far enough to get the driveshaft into the rear end.
However, the y pipe does not fit. I custom made it for when I had the t56 in there, so now with the 4l80e and the new crossmember it's contacting the middle of the crossmember. I started banging away at the pipe to make it fit for now just to get it running. I ran out of time, but almost got it dented enough. Looks like it will severely hinder flow, so I need to make a new one ASAP.
So only thing left is to mount the cooler and run lines to it, bolt in driveshaft/exhaust, fill her with fluid, load an auto tune into the car, and start her up!
No pics as I was busy working and forgot the camera again. Finally got the converter seated after a little persuasion with a rubber mallet. Was only able to get 5 bolts in. The 1 o'clock bolt hole didn't line up right, but all the others did.
Other good news is that I don't have to cut the slip yoke down. It slides in far enough to get the driveshaft into the rear end.
However, the y pipe does not fit. I custom made it for when I had the t56 in there, so now with the 4l80e and the new crossmember it's contacting the middle of the crossmember. I started banging away at the pipe to make it fit for now just to get it running. I ran out of time, but almost got it dented enough. Looks like it will severely hinder flow, so I need to make a new one ASAP.
So only thing left is to mount the cooler and run lines to it, bolt in driveshaft/exhaust, fill her with fluid, load an auto tune into the car, and start her up!
03-30-2012, 07:38 AM
#135
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the company you bought your slip yoke from said they are on back order...would this work the same?
http://www.alloutracing.com/store/bm...oke-yk004.html
http://www.alloutracing.com/store/bm...oke-yk004.html
03-30-2012, 07:45 AM
#136
As long as it's for a th400, the splines will fit. The u joint ends will depend on what driveshaft you're using. I was using my PST, so it had 1350 ends. If you're using a stocker, I'm not sure what ends they have. Also have to take in consideration what output shaft you have on the 80e, whether it's fully splined like mine, or only splined part way up cause it's a bolt on yoke.
03-30-2012, 07:52 AM
#138
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As long as it's for a th400, the splines will fit. The u joint ends will depend on what driveshaft you're using. I was using my PST, so it had 1350 ends. If you're using a stocker, I'm not sure what ends they have. Also have to take in consideration what output shaft you have on the 80e, whether it's fully splined like mine, or only splined part way up cause it's a bolt on yoke.
lol but im going to be using the stock drive shaft..its from a 2003 exress
thanks for your writeup btw
03-30-2012, 11:56 PM
#139
Maiden voyage! Did a write entire and a quick tune to get it to idle and scaled for the 42lb injectors. Took her out for a drive....and no 3rd gear 
. I'm also getting a P0740 code as well. I tried to get it to go into 3rd via hptuners scanner but no dice. I'm currently working on the wiring side of it to see what's going on. 1st and 2nd seem great though, lol.
. I'm also getting a P0740 code as well. I tried to get it to go into 3rd via hptuners scanner but no dice. I'm currently working on the wiring side of it to see what's going on. 1st and 2nd seem great though, lol.
04-01-2012, 04:42 AM
#140
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I'm sure Mike, Stephen (elit3), or slow67 will chime in and help you out. I have an 80 from Jakes in my car and love it. I beat the **** out of it, every chance I get and any of the guys at Jakes will tell you how good I treat the tranny lol. Watch out for Stephen (elit3) though, he'll start to hate you, like he does me for some reason... lmao jk Well that's what he tells me anyways.. lol BTW awesome thread.