Dans69LS1velle

2001 4l60e just rebuilt. I installed it, and it only has park, and is stuck in low gear even with the selector in reverse and neutral. It has the wide band with the corvette servo and the shorter pin. I am able to push the servo cover in a little bit. With the tires off the ground, not running, they spin freely forward and with some resistance spinning them in reverse. There was enough play in the low clutch pack when it was assembled. ???

Dans69LS1velle

I also have a tci trans controller and it shows no codes.

Dans69LS1velle

Anyone?

mrvedit

Someone more experienced than me will have to help you, but I will share my limited experience.
1. The output shaft (and driveshaft if connected) definitely turns easier one way than the other.
2. You should be able to push the servo cover in a bit; that is normal.
3. Due to a post here several weeks ago about low clutch clearance, I discussed this with a pro trans builder and we concurred that with NO clearance, the trans should work fine in 1st and Reverse, but might bind when trying to shift to 2nd.

Hopefully one of the experienced experts here will know exactly what your problem is. When the selector is in Reverse, there is NO fluid being sent to any of the forward clutches (circuits D1,D2,D3,D4). Therefore, as a novice, I think something is jammed. Does the 3/4 clutch have clearance? Since you can spin the driveshaft, the band is probably OK.
I look forward to an expert's opinion and analysis...

Dans69LS1velle

That does help. The 3/4 clutch had .060 clearance. Yes even in reverse the car wanted to move forward. Neutral also. The only thing i can think of is the wiring
harness has a short? I
upgraded to the 5 pinion
planets, sonnax shell and
race, input drum
reinforcement sleeve, new
reverse drum, wide band and a corvette sep plate.

mrvedit

I cannot think of any way that a wiring problem could cause this, either shorts or opens, as they only control the shift and TCC solenoids.
The manual valve (shift lever) opens up hydraulic circuits called D1, D2, D3 and D4 which are distributed by the various valves and solenoids to the clutches and servos. Without D1-D4, there is no forward activation of anything.

Here is a thought - you mentioned installing the Sonnax input-drum reinforcement sleeve. I assume then that you used the custom Sonnax overrun piston and an old-style aluminum forward piston. And that both of these had clearance? I installed the Sonnax sleeve just last week and the first old-style forward piston I tried was defective (worn) and had no clearance. I wonder if your forward piston is jammed; that would explain why your trans is always in forward.
BTW - It looks like you installed some nice upgrades; sorry that you are having trouble. I would recommend just a few more including the Transgo HD2 kit and the Sonnax 2-3 check valve. I have very fast yet smooth shifts.

Dans69LS1velle

Ok. Yes I used the sonnax custom piston that came with the reinforcement kit. I used an old style forward piston out of a 93 4l60. It went together smoothly. Not too sure about clearance tho. I just followed the supplied directions. ?? Maybe that's the issue? Also if I used to big of the selective spacer between the input drum and reverse drum? Would that lock up the drum underneath the pump? I've had that transgo kit in a previous trans and I lost 3/4 clutch not shortly after..

mrvedit

To install the Sonnax reinforcement ring I went to my very-friendly local trans shop for the old-style piston. They had some lying around and gave me one. However when I installed the frictions, I noticed that the last one was ABOVE the five prongs, i.e. no clearance. I then noticed that the prongs were ground down. It took it back and the mechanic said this can happen in major failures and apologized that he didn't notice it earlier. Another piston was perfect and I had good clearance. When installing a well used 15+ year old part you never know its condition or history. Unlikely you ran into the same problem, but your forward clutch may be stuck.

The selective washer adjusts only the input shaft end play. If you can feel a little pulling and pushing on the shaft you should be OK. Factory spec is a huge range of .005 to .035. I aimed for 0.015. I assume you did not install the spring-loaded checkball capsule from Superior into the input drum; I think it is too big and jams the parts.

Low/reverse clutch pack - If you remove the valve body you can air test it and see the piston move to confirm it is not jammed. or too tight.

Seems that some people have screwed up their trans trying to install the fairly complex Transgo HD2 kit, but you obviously have the skills. At least install a bigger boost valve and spring to increase line pressure. I think some experts here would say that is essential for 3/4 clutch life. Some people skip checking the 3rd accumulator check ball (in servo area) and if that doesn't seat perfectly, you will quickly ruin the 3/4 clutches, especially if you use the corvette servo.
BTW - I use the Sonnax 2-3 check valve with a 0.120 diameter 3rd feed hole in the plate and I have supper quick and perfectly smooth 2-3 shifts.

If you want to talk by phone, PM me or email me: ted -at- vedit -dot- com.

Dans69LS1velle

Well I'm still a little novice with the GM overdrives. I've built a few but they were just stock applications. This is my first heavy duty trans for my 6.0 lsx motor I built. I did inspect the forward piston. It appeared like there was no damage or wear but then again I might have missed something.
I do have the sonnax check
valve. I was able to install it cause I didn't have the proper tools.. I know I should
have taken the case to my
trans shop.. But my budget
doesn't allow me to do much
work outside my garage.. But it appears I'm going to have to tear into my trans again. I will install the check valve.
Also I did install the high pressure valve in a rebuilt pump. And kolene steels and raybestos clutches. I did check the low clutch with air pressure during assembly. I did hear and see it operate. And no I did not install the check valve in the input drum.

mrvedit

You can just push the Sonnax 2-3 check valve in without any tools. However, I first tapped it for a 5/16(?) thread so that I could easily remove it in case it got stuck. You are also supposed to drill it when using a Corvette or performance servo.

I still think that something related to the non-stock assembly needed for the Sonnax reinforcement ring got your forward piston stuck.

You emailed me and I sent you my cell number. We will talk soon.

Dans69LS1velle

That's what I'm thinking. Something with that forward piston and reinforcement sleeve. I do remember putting the pump on the input drum and checking it with air. I have my local trans shop informed and I'm prob going to take it to them and have them check it out. I'm 99 percent sure I've assembled the trans correctly but not to sure now about that forward piston now that you've mentioned it.

Dans69LS1velle

Any other takers out there?

JUNK

Assuming the manual valve is engaged at the VB, seems like your trouble is in the input drum. Maybe stuck forward or overun clutch. IF it shifts at all and it binds 4th gear, it's the overun clutch. Did u pressure-check the input after clutchpack install? Something simple I am sure, but it may have to come out...

If u need to pull it back down, and it's not obvious, there is alway ls1 tech and this helpful section

You my try pulling the pan to make sure than manual link is connected to the shift valve. I have seen one come off because (it looked like) someone for got it AFTER the VB was installed and they tried to "cheat" by bending it to install. Found it in the pan after it hit my bench for a rebuild. It is nothing electrical, something mech. wrong going on here.

Dans69LS1velle

Junk-
Thank you for your response. And for ls1tech that's what I'm going to check after I pull the trans. I remember
installing the linkage when
bolted up the vb. I haven't drove it yet.. I'm afraid to! Or should I try? Thinking it's a
prob with that forward piston. I
used an early one in
conjuction with the sonnax reinforcement input drum sleeve. I'm going to try and tear it down today and will get back with everyone with an update.

JUNK

U can check the manual link by just removing the pan, let us know what u find.

Dans69LS1velle

Junk-
I doubt it's the manual link. That means the manual valve would be in the low gear position at all times. Even in park. I broke in my new motor, and threw a few revs while on gear the whole time? That would have smoked the converter or even broke or jumped the parking pall. It
didn't act at all like it was
idling in gear. So I think it's in
the input drum. Something
also I didn't mention was that I
took off the bottom portion
Of the spring cage to fit the early style forward piston. Per reinforcement sleeve directions. Don't know if that had anything to do with it.

Dans69LS1velle

Don't know why it's putting my reply to the right. Lol retarded phone..

GoinBacktoCali

Hello, hopefully you or someone could help me relating to air testing...When I air test the input drum, none of my clutches move when its sitting upside down on the pump. There is air flowing into the stator shaft at all positions, and all clutches apply with air being applied directly to the input shaft. Mr Zank said to use 40 psi at the feed holes on the pump. Is that not enough? I havent taken the input drum/pump to get the new teflon rings installed yet. Could the rings be the cause of the air leak or do I not have enough air pressure?

mrvedit

Sounds like a problem with the input shaft rings.
If you are taking it to a trans shop to have new rings put on, why not take your pump too and have them test it.
I recall that I have to cover the other holes on the pump with my fingers to test and move each clutch in the input drum. (That might be only true for the forward and overrun clutches.)