Gears Won't Go In
06-09-2012, 01:15 AM
#21
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Exactly.
Remove your starter and then the three converter mounting bolts. You should be able to spin the converter by hand.
There is an access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing into which you can place a screwdriver (or small pry bar) to move the converter back and forth to check its clearance to the flexplate.
If you cannot spin the converter and there is no clearance, then the pump got crunched. (I suppose it is possible that the pump rotor got broken so completely that there is now clearance, but I don't know if that ever happens.)
Remove your starter and then the three converter mounting bolts. You should be able to spin the converter by hand.
There is an access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing into which you can place a screwdriver (or small pry bar) to move the converter back and forth to check its clearance to the flexplate.
If you cannot spin the converter and there is no clearance, then the pump got crunched. (I suppose it is possible that the pump rotor got broken so completely that there is now clearance, but I don't know if that ever happens.)
Oh ok now I get you guys, well imma try doing that on Tuesday see what happens... So if it does move freely what else can be the issue? Or if it doesn't move what should I do? Remove the tranny and reinstall the TC the right way??
06-09-2012, 01:17 AM
#22
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First of all be sure that you used the proper oil filter. The filter also acts as the pickup for the oil pump. If you installed a shallow pan filter in a deep pan, it is a possibility that the filter is not fully submerged. Next i would recommend pulling one of the cooler lines off and placing it into a bucket. If you start the motor and nothing comes out of the cooler line, you have a pump and/or converter hub failure.The pan will come out easily with the trans still in the car, but the pump will not. Good luck!
06-09-2012, 01:19 AM
#23
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Since draining the fluid, dropping the pan, replacing the pan and adding fluid takes a bit of time, you might first try z28camaro82z's suggestion of checking for fluid in the cooling line. If there is none, they it has to be the filter or the pump. The drop the pan and determine which it is.
BTW - The filter has plastic tabs (feet) on the bottom which will rest on the installed pan and keep it properly positioned.
BTW - The filter has plastic tabs (feet) on the bottom which will rest on the installed pan and keep it properly positioned.
Yeah ima give it a try see what happens... Won't know till Tuesday see what happens... Best luck to me... 8). And thnx
06-09-2012, 01:24 AM
#24
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Look here I have a question , when you install the Torque Converter , Do you put first onto
The tranny then put the tranny back on or do you install the torque conveyer onto the flywheel then you put the tranny back on??
The tranny then put the tranny back on or do you install the torque conveyer onto the flywheel then you put the tranny back on??
06-09-2012, 01:42 AM
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you definitely want to stab the converter into the trans and be sure that it is installed properly before bolting the transmission to the engine. the common "3 clicks" is usually a good indication. Improper installation will result in broken pump rotor and/or converter hub. Once you are sure the converter is in you want to bolt the bellhousing up to the back of the block. If the converter hits the flexplate before the bellhousing hits the block, start over again and repeat the procedure.
06-09-2012, 09:07 AM
#26
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That says it precisely, short and sweet.
06-09-2012, 09:12 AM
#27
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I just thought of something else, although unlikely. If the link between the shifting shaft and the valve body fell out/broke, you would have these symptoms. I don't see how that could happen during a trans/engine swap, but that would be trivial to check when you drop the pan.
06-10-2012, 12:09 AM
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you definitely want to stab the converter into the trans and be sure that it is installed properly before bolting the transmission to the engine. the common "3 clicks" is usually a good indication. Improper installation will result in broken pump rotor and/or converter hub. Once you are sure the converter is in you want to bolt the bellhousing up to the back of the block. If the converter hits the flexplate before the bellhousing hits the block, start over again and repeat the procedure.
06-10-2012, 12:15 AM
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06-10-2012, 12:17 AM
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I just thought of something else, although unlikely. If the link between the shifting shaft and the valve body fell out/broke, you would have these symptoms. I don't see how that could happen during a trans/engine swap, but that would be trivial to check when you drop the pan.
06-10-2012, 12:19 AM
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Well I put 10qts like a week ago so I know it's ok in fluid.. What I might be confused about is the filter.. I might just go buy a good brand instead of autozone crap that I have right now installed
06-10-2012, 02:06 AM
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Yupp then I deffinetly fucked up... I installed the torque converter on to the flexplate first then the tranny onto the block, and I remember that there was half an inch or a bit more of space between the bell housing and the block when I put the tranny back on... I started bolting the bell housing back in the block with that space in between ... So I must have fucked it up... 8( SMh!!! Well hopefully I didn't **** **** up...
06-10-2012, 05:22 PM
#34
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If you bolted the trans to the block like you say you did, chances are very good that you have damaged the pump, converter hub, or quite possibly both. I'm willing to bet if you pull a cooler line and start the motor as i specified earlier in this thread, you will likely see nothing coming out. Be aware that if you start the motor and let it run you introduce the risk of spreading any unwanted debris throughout the rest of the transmission. It might be a wise idea to pull the trans and inspect the converter hub before you do more damage. If you need guidance determining potential damage post a picture and myself or someone else here can help identify any issues.
btw i was hoping you can or someone can help me out with this plug that i cant seem to find were it plugs into...
http://youtu.be/BhW-Sii-j4Y
06-10-2012, 07:42 PM
#35
Yupp then I deffinetly fucked up... I installed the torque converter on to the flexplate first then the tranny onto the block, and I remember that there was half an inch or a bit more of space between the bell housing and the block when I put the tranny back on... I started bolting the bell housing back in the block with that space in between ... So I must have fucked it up... 8( SMh!!! Well hopefully I didn't **** **** up...
Wow.....not trying to rub salt in the wound but how in the world do you know how to pull the engine and trans out of your car but didn't know to seat the converter in the trans first, not bolt it up to your flexplate first?
If you had any doubt, just a simple google search would have told you what to do...just for future reference I guess. Or a haynes/chilton manual would come in handy.
06-10-2012, 09:50 PM
#37
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I would not even both "fiddling" with the trans, take it out and to a local trans shop. If it is just a split rotor, it should be about $250; if you need a new pump case, add $150 for a used pump on ebay.
06-10-2012, 10:36 PM
#39
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Wow.....not trying to rub salt in the wound but how in the world do you know how to pull the engine and trans out of your car but didn't know to seat the converter in the trans first, not bolt it up to your flexplate first?
If you had any doubt, just a simple google search would have told you what to do...just for future reference I guess. Or a haynes/chilton manual would come in handy.
If you had any doubt, just a simple google search would have told you what to do...just for future reference I guess. Or a haynes/chilton manual would come in handy.
06-10-2012, 10:40 PM
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Year didn't think it was an 02 rather cuz ther 4 pins, and we're would it plug into ? I know u said ABS but is it behind the motor the other end of the plug? Or do I need to go look for it an find it myself?? LoL