Gears Won't Go In
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Gears Won't Go In Hello Gemtlemen ..
I hve a big Problem here... So My 99 Z28 Auto won't go into gears...
About a month ago I removed my engine and tranny to replace my blown motor.. Well it was time to install everything again... Before I did I went to autozone and bought a Gasket kit for the auto tranny... I took out the oil pan cover and replaced the gasket and filter... Closed it back up and put the tranny back on the car ..
I tried filling up the torque cnvtr with oil before installing it but it only let me put in like 1/4 of a qt... Practically nothing.. It would just keep spilling out... So I put it back on like that... Well I filled up the tranny with 6qts and the dipstick marked way over the fill line while motor on... Auto store said it took about 10 qts but tranny is fille up with 6qts..
Well tried sticking tranny into R-D-2-1 and nothing not even a slight pull... Shifter cable is connected right... Any suggestions?? I'm lost... Thanks guys
I hve a big Problem here... So My 99 Z28 Auto won't go into gears...
About a month ago I removed my engine and tranny to replace my blown motor.. Well it was time to install everything again... Before I did I went to autozone and bought a Gasket kit for the auto tranny... I took out the oil pan cover and replaced the gasket and filter... Closed it back up and put the tranny back on the car ..
I tried filling up the torque cnvtr with oil before installing it but it only let me put in like 1/4 of a qt... Practically nothing.. It would just keep spilling out... So I put it back on like that... Well I filled up the tranny with 6qts and the dipstick marked way over the fill line while motor on... Auto store said it took about 10 qts but tranny is fille up with 6qts..
Well tried sticking tranny into R-D-2-1 and nothing not even a slight pull... Shifter cable is connected right... Any suggestions?? I'm lost... Thanks guys
fluid level issue, and im going to guess low because a filter change and a semi empty convertor is going to take a little more than 7 quarts most likely. its very hard to get a good level reading after adding fluid due to using the same tube to do both tasks. start the vehicle and idle only run through the gears and check the level again while the engine is running and in park.
if still no luck, it may be possible the filter fell out of the hole it goes into in the valve body
if still no luck, it may be possible the filter fell out of the hole it goes into in the valve body
Could be a broken shifter cable. I had the same problem when I r/r my engine tranny. It broke near the top and split in 2 pieces.
Double check the fluid also. Let it warm up and see where it is on the dipstick.
Double check the fluid also. Let it warm up and see where it is on the dipstick.
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The fluid level should be quite a bit lower when the engine is running. If it is not, the pump is not running, perhaps because the converter was not installed correctly, the filter is not on correctly or the fluid level is much too low. I think you have enough fluid to get things started.
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fluid level issue, and im going to guess low because a filter change and a semi empty convertor is going to take a little more than 7 quarts most likely. its very hard to get a good level reading after adding fluid due to using the same tube to do both tasks. start the vehicle and idle only run through the gears and check the level again while the engine is running and in park.
if still no luck, it may be possible the filter fell out of the hole it goes into in the valve body
if still no luck, it may be possible the filter fell out of the hole it goes into in the valve body
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Teching In
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No I doubt it's the shifter cable, cuz I had someone changing fears while I was under the car and the cable would move... 8(
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This sounds plausible. (Although technically the filter fits into the pump body.) Make sure the filter fits snugly into the seal that is pressed into the pump body.
The fluid level should be quite a bit lower when the engine is running. If it is not, the pump is not running, perhaps because the converter was not installed correctly, the filter is not on correctly or the fluid level is much too low. I think you have enough fluid to get things started.
The fluid level should be quite a bit lower when the engine is running. If it is not, the pump is not running, perhaps because the converter was not installed correctly, the filter is not on correctly or the fluid level is much too low. I think you have enough fluid to get things started.
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Unless you have a drain hole on the pan, I suggest first pumping out as much fluid as you can through the dipstick. A cheap hand pump from Harbor Freight of local auto store works great. You should be able to get 3 quarts out that way. The pan should hold the rest as you carefully drop it.
The "rubber/metal ring" that came with your filter is a replacement seal, in case you need it. It is a bitch to replace underneath the car, hopefully you don't have to. The filter should fit snuggly into the existing seal and not drop out by its own weight.
Also, I assume you installed the three converter to flexplate bolts.
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Yes, that should be easy.
Unless you have a drain hole on the pan, I suggest first pumping out as much fluid as you can through the dipstick. A cheap hand pump from Harbor Freight of local auto store works great. You should be able to get 3 quarts out that way. The pan should hold the rest as you carefully drop it.
The "rubber/metal ring" that came with your filter is a replacement seal, in case you need it. It is a bitch to replace underneath the car, hopefully you don't have to. The filter should fit snuggly into the existing seal and not drop out by its own weight.
Also, I assume you installed the three converter to flexplate bolts.
Unless you have a drain hole on the pan, I suggest first pumping out as much fluid as you can through the dipstick. A cheap hand pump from Harbor Freight of local auto store works great. You should be able to get 3 quarts out that way. The pan should hold the rest as you carefully drop it.
The "rubber/metal ring" that came with your filter is a replacement seal, in case you need it. It is a bitch to replace underneath the car, hopefully you don't have to. The filter should fit snuggly into the existing seal and not drop out by its own weight.
Also, I assume you installed the three converter to flexplate bolts.
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Stick in perfectly the first two sections of the groves the third one was kinda hard but made it go
In as well... Maybe it's cuz I only fille it up with 1/4 of a quart...
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
The guideline is "Make sure you hear 3 clicks when you install the converter". These correspond to engaging the input shaft, the stator shaft and last the oil pump. You may have to turn the converter a half turn to get the pump engaged.
There are lots of threads here about people who missed the last part and then ruin their trans pump when they torque up their bellhousing bolts. I suggest barely going finger tight on the bell housing and then check the clearance between the converter pads and the flexplate. It should be 1/16 to 3/16. If it is Zero, then the converter is not in all the way and this must be corrected immediately.
GMRACER13 is probably right that this is the most likely problem. (Somehow I missed that myself.) If true, your trans will have to be pulled and fixed. Typically $250 at a trans shop for 2 hours labor and $50 in parts.
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Nothing to do with how much fluid you put into it.
The guideline is "Make sure you hear 3 clicks when you install the converter". These correspond to engaging the input shaft, the stator shaft and last the oil pump. You may have to turn the converter a half turn to get the pump engaged.
There are lots of threads here about people who missed the last part and then ruin their trans pump when they torque up their bellhousing bolts. I suggest barely going finger tight on the bell housing and then check the clearance between the converter pads and the flexplate. It should be 1/16 to 3/16. If it is Zero, then the converter is not in all the way and this must be corrected immediately
GMRACER13 is probably right that this is the most likely problem. (Somehow I missed that myself.) If true, your trans will have to be pulled and fixed. Typically $250 at a trans shop for 2 hours labor and $50 in parts.
The guideline is "Make sure you hear 3 clicks when you install the converter". These correspond to engaging the input shaft, the stator shaft and last the oil pump. You may have to turn the converter a half turn to get the pump engaged.
There are lots of threads here about people who missed the last part and then ruin their trans pump when they torque up their bellhousing bolts. I suggest barely going finger tight on the bell housing and then check the clearance between the converter pads and the flexplate. It should be 1/16 to 3/16. If it is Zero, then the converter is not in all the way and this must be corrected immediately
GMRACER13 is probably right that this is the most likely problem. (Somehow I missed that myself.) If true, your trans will have to be pulled and fixed. Typically $250 at a trans shop for 2 hours labor and $50 in parts.
Damn Suck *****, Yeah I really don't think I heard the third click... Ok so I'm a bit confused on what it explaining about the space between the flexplate and the pads?? Where is this at? And about removing the tranny I can do it myself won't need a mechanic for that... Thnx .. Please help I'm lost..
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Remove your starter and then the three converter mounting bolts. You should be able to spin the converter by hand.
There is an access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing into which you can place a screwdriver (or small pry bar) to move the converter back and forth to check its clearance to the flexplate.
If you cannot spin the converter and there is no clearance, then the pump got crunched. (I suppose it is possible that the pump rotor got broken so completely that there is now clearance, but I don't know if that ever happens.)
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First of all be sure that you used the proper oil filter. The filter also acts as the pickup for the oil pump. If you installed a shallow pan filter in a deep pan, it is a possibility that the filter is not fully submerged. Next i would recommend pulling one of the cooler lines off and placing it into a bucket. If you start the motor and nothing comes out of the cooler line, you have a pump and/or converter hub failure.The pan will come out easily with the trans still in the car, but the pump will not. Good luck!
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Since draining the fluid, dropping the pan, replacing the pan and adding fluid takes a bit of time, you might first try z28camaro82z's suggestion of checking for fluid in the cooling line. If there is none, they it has to be the filter or the pump. The drop the pan and determine which it is.
BTW - The filter has plastic tabs (feet) on the bottom which will rest on the installed pan and keep it properly positioned.
BTW - The filter has plastic tabs (feet) on the bottom which will rest on the installed pan and keep it properly positioned.
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Wait I'm lost, if the TC is bolted onto the flywheel (flexplate) souldnt it not be able to move without the flywheel as well?