ZzTeaRs

It only does it at wot and from some reading and what not it would seem that's its the 1-2 acumulator. Just had my trans pan off on Sat changing the fluid and the filter. Question is would it be hard to do this myself?? It looks easy enough. And where could I get the parts for it??? Could i get them from say autozone or would I have to go to a trans shop??

ZzTeaRs

Sorry forgot to say what the problem was. It's not shifting at wot. That's the only problem. I did notice however that of its been sitting for a couple hrs it shifts fine at wot. If the car is cold it works like a charm

mrvedit

Please explain exactly what "not shifting at WOT" means.
Is it hitting the rev limiter?
In what gears?
Does it have a high stall converter in it?

If you are thinking about the 1-2 accumulator, I assume you are referring to the 1-2 shift hitting the rev limiter. In this case the 1-2 accumulator is one of the less likely problem areas, but is easy to check. I would first buy a Sonnax pinless piston and install that to eliminate any problems with wear and leaks.
More likely problem areas are the seals on the 2nd servo and a worn band.

A trans shop can get you the Sonnax pinless piston overnight from their distributor. It is part number 77998-03K:

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-07799803k.htm

You only need to drop the pan, filter and then three 10mm bolts to remove the 1-2 accumulator. Unless you find a severely worn or cracked piston in there, that is probably not your problem. But worth a shot for $12.

ZzTeaRs

Ya its hitting the rev limiter but only from 1-2 in wot normal driving around town it drives fine . It's just at wot the problem is. The car is a bone stock 94 z28 a4 no stall in it or aftermarket converter. Would checking the bands on the servo be songbook.g easy to check or should I just ha e a trans shop do the work??

ZzTeaRs

Sorry for the typos I'm on my phone at lunch. I've changed the tps and the vss so far and just changed the fluid and filter on saturday. The fluid did smell pretty burned up. Was some metal on the magnet also not a whole lot but I guess a decent ammount.

mrvedit

If this is the original transmission and never rebuilt, the burnt fluid and slippage indicates it is at the end of its life. You might get a bit more life out of it by installing a bigger boost valve and pressure regulator spring to increase the line pressure which often reduces slippage. About $25 and only requires dropping the pan.

ZzTeaRs

Ya its the original trans as far as i know. It's got 108k miles on it , pretty well taken care of. I'm going to take it to a diffrent trans shop when i get home today . The first shop said it was a computer problem. But if i do have to get it rebuilt how much am I looking at?? I plan on going full bolt on with the stock bottom end for a bit and maybe a 100 shot should put it around 500 HP or so. What kind of trans rebuild kit should i look Into??

mrvedit

Its not the computer!
1994 was one of the earlier ones and weaker than later years. That means more internal "hard" parts should be replaced too. (My opinion anyway). If you R&R the trans yourself and take it to a shop, $900 is a basic rebuild price, but then add perhaps $400-$500 for performance parts including the $80 Transgo Shiftkit. If the local builder does performance upgrades, that is a reasonable option; ask for his price and preferred upgrade list. Then compare it to the price of one of the sponsors here.

ZzTeaRs

Gah!!!! The trans is shifting fine now. Took it to a second trans shop today and sure enough it shifted fine for him. I gave it wot a fee times on the way home and sure enough it shifted what is going on here Bleh!!!!