Whats the REAL differences between a 375$ converter and a 700$ one?
06-18-2012, 11:37 AM
#42
Teching In
I have had 3 revmax converter's,the first one slowed my car down 3 mph in the 1/8 mile,the 2nd took a dump on the dyno,the 3rd is Billet and was not correct for my application, and broke my pump. I don't like to bash anyone but i'm not happy with my experience with them.
06-18-2012, 12:05 PM
#43
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Hmmm, just looked at some of your other posts...
Seems like the converter that slowed you down in MPH picked you up 4/10ths so not sure what the complaint is on that one.
Second unit you tried to do WOT lockup pulls on our stage 3 unit that we expressly state cannot be done unless you purchased a billet stage 5 unit.
3rd unit, we gave you FULL CREDIT for your purchase and upgraded you into a stage 5 unit, even though your WOT locked pulls killed it, we still gave you credit for it...
Then you called and told us you had installed the new stage 5 converter and had over a 1/4" clearance between it and the flexplate. Instead of stopping and calling one of our techs, you elected to continue the install and drive it, then the pump broke ,which will always happen when the converter is not properly indexed. So, you are not happy with us?
Converters are meant to be installed by a qualified technician, and while most installs go by with no issues, there are the exceptions. This would be one of them, and this is why you pay someone to install it. The installers experience is priceless in situations like these.
We would be more than happy to fix the hub on that converter you damaged for free. We can provide you with the shims you need or tell you what to buy at your local hardware store ( about $2 or so) to remedy the issue on your end. We are always here to help and wish that you would have called us before you attempted to drive with the improperly installed converter. Please feel free to call us and we will do whatever we can to help you out!
Seems like the converter that slowed you down in MPH picked you up 4/10ths so not sure what the complaint is on that one.
Second unit you tried to do WOT lockup pulls on our stage 3 unit that we expressly state cannot be done unless you purchased a billet stage 5 unit.
3rd unit, we gave you FULL CREDIT for your purchase and upgraded you into a stage 5 unit, even though your WOT locked pulls killed it, we still gave you credit for it...
Then you called and told us you had installed the new stage 5 converter and had over a 1/4" clearance between it and the flexplate. Instead of stopping and calling one of our techs, you elected to continue the install and drive it, then the pump broke ,which will always happen when the converter is not properly indexed. So, you are not happy with us?
Converters are meant to be installed by a qualified technician, and while most installs go by with no issues, there are the exceptions. This would be one of them, and this is why you pay someone to install it. The installers experience is priceless in situations like these.
We would be more than happy to fix the hub on that converter you damaged for free. We can provide you with the shims you need or tell you what to buy at your local hardware store ( about $2 or so) to remedy the issue on your end. We are always here to help and wish that you would have called us before you attempted to drive with the improperly installed converter. Please feel free to call us and we will do whatever we can to help you out!
06-18-2012, 12:43 PM
#44
As a 6-speed guy looking to go auto this winter, its nice to see sponsors like Revmax & Jakes actually posting technical explanations that end up answering alot more than the original question. I have been doin alot of reading in this section lately & its nice to have this kind of info on hand.
06-18-2012, 03:32 PM
#45
Teching In
The whole reason we tried to lock up the 2nd converter is because it was too loose and would not put out a dyno number. My dyno guy locked it in 3rd gear at 3000 rpm and rolled into the throttle just so i could see what kind of power the car made,on top of that it was built for nitrous and would not hold on motor so i was unable to use nitrous .
06-18-2012, 06:18 PM
#49
If you want to buy something used to pay to have it serviced and not know the true condition to begin with thats fine...ill pass.
06-22-2012, 12:54 AM
#52
While I truly respect the knowledge and technical expertise in the posts by RevMax and Jake's, I'm not convinced that a 9.5" converter with a stock front cover is really adequate for a car even on bolt-on power levels.
This sticky lays it out visibly and clearly for all to see: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
That being said, I did run a TCI 3000 converter like the one in the pics with zero problems for 24k miles and countless track runs. I'm convinced that the only reason it survived was the fact that I had a Transgo shift kit installed with the converter that eliminated PWM - thus saving that weak clutch.
Those who have been on this board for some years will recall numerous accounts of clutch failures on these kinds of converters that ended up trashing transmissions.
If you're going to beat on your car, and you want a 9.5" converter, you want one with a billet front cover and a substantial clutch. And you must eliminate PWM, or you will run the risk of chewing up the clutch and destroying your transmission.
For me, moving up to a billet converter with a good clutch is peace of mind.
This sticky lays it out visibly and clearly for all to see: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
That being said, I did run a TCI 3000 converter like the one in the pics with zero problems for 24k miles and countless track runs. I'm convinced that the only reason it survived was the fact that I had a Transgo shift kit installed with the converter that eliminated PWM - thus saving that weak clutch.
Those who have been on this board for some years will recall numerous accounts of clutch failures on these kinds of converters that ended up trashing transmissions.
If you're going to beat on your car, and you want a 9.5" converter, you want one with a billet front cover and a substantial clutch. And you must eliminate PWM, or you will run the risk of chewing up the clutch and destroying your transmission.
For me, moving up to a billet converter with a good clutch is peace of mind.
06-22-2012, 02:44 AM
#53
I didnt say there was anything wrong with it. I just wouldnt personally do it. I dont want to take the time to have a used converter inspected, cleaned, and verified. IMO thats just a waste of time+money and would rather buy it new.
If you want to buy something used to pay to have it serviced and not know the true condition to begin with thats fine...ill pass.
If you want to buy something used to pay to have it serviced and not know the true condition to begin with thats fine...ill pass.
06-22-2012, 05:25 PM
#54
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While I truly respect the knowledge and technical expertise in the posts by RevMax and Jake's, I'm not convinced that a 9.5" converter with a stock front cover is really adequate for a car even on bolt-on power levels.
This sticky lays it out visibly and clearly for all to see: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
That being said, I did run a TCI 3000 converter like the one in the pics with zero problems for 24k miles and countless track runs. I'm convinced that the only reason it survived was the fact that I had a Transgo shift kit installed with the converter that eliminated PWM - thus saving that weak clutch.
Those who have been on this board for some years will recall numerous accounts of clutch failures on these kinds of converters that ended up trashing transmissions.
If you're going to beat on your car, and you want a 9.5" converter, you want one with a billet front cover and a substantial clutch. And you must eliminate PWM, or you will run the risk of chewing up the clutch and destroying your transmission.
For me, moving up to a billet converter with a good clutch is peace of mind.
This sticky lays it out visibly and clearly for all to see: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
That being said, I did run a TCI 3000 converter like the one in the pics with zero problems for 24k miles and countless track runs. I'm convinced that the only reason it survived was the fact that I had a Transgo shift kit installed with the converter that eliminated PWM - thus saving that weak clutch.
Those who have been on this board for some years will recall numerous accounts of clutch failures on these kinds of converters that ended up trashing transmissions.
If you're going to beat on your car, and you want a 9.5" converter, you want one with a billet front cover and a substantial clutch. And you must eliminate PWM, or you will run the risk of chewing up the clutch and destroying your transmission.
For me, moving up to a billet converter with a good clutch is peace of mind.
06-23-2012, 12:41 AM
#56
While I truly respect the knowledge and technical expertise in the posts by RevMax and Jake's, I'm not convinced that a 9.5" converter with a stock front cover is really adequate for a car even on bolt-on power levels.
This sticky lays it out visibly and clearly for all to see: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
That being said, I did run a TCI 3000 converter like the one in the pics with zero problems for 24k miles and countless track runs. I'm convinced that the only reason it survived was the fact that I had a Transgo shift kit installed with the converter that eliminated PWM - thus saving that weak clutch.
Those who have been on this board for some years will recall numerous accounts of clutch failures on these kinds of converters that ended up trashing transmissions.
If you're going to beat on your car, and you want a 9.5" converter, you want one with a billet front cover and a substantial clutch. And you must eliminate PWM, or you will run the risk of chewing up the clutch and destroying your transmission.
For me, moving up to a billet converter with a good clutch is peace of mind.
This sticky lays it out visibly and clearly for all to see: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
That being said, I did run a TCI 3000 converter like the one in the pics with zero problems for 24k miles and countless track runs. I'm convinced that the only reason it survived was the fact that I had a Transgo shift kit installed with the converter that eliminated PWM - thus saving that weak clutch.
Those who have been on this board for some years will recall numerous accounts of clutch failures on these kinds of converters that ended up trashing transmissions.
If you're going to beat on your car, and you want a 9.5" converter, you want one with a billet front cover and a substantial clutch. And you must eliminate PWM, or you will run the risk of chewing up the clutch and destroying your transmission.
For me, moving up to a billet converter with a good clutch is peace of mind.
The clutch material used also has a huge affect on whether it will live or not. Some materials are better than others. There is a reason the material was changed after the OEM's went to PWM lockup. That should apply to aftermarket setups as well.
06-24-2012, 12:12 PM
#57
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Props to the sponsors for stepping in and explaining everything.
I went with a circle d 4c with billit front cover because i planned on throwing heads, cam and a decent size of spray. Now I'm looking to pull the ls1 out and replacing it with an ls3.
I went with a circle d 4c with billit front cover because i planned on throwing heads, cam and a decent size of spray. Now I'm looking to pull the ls1 out and replacing it with an ls3.
06-24-2012, 09:41 PM
#59
this was a fantastic read. i talked with jakes performance the other day about my 4l80 and converter combo. I have also talked with PTC, and Circle D.
choices choices. there are some reputable builders out there, but Revmax let the cat out of the bag. I would guess the 258mm will always be better since there is more surface friction. I never ran lockup on my PTC 3200 10''. it was almost taking me to 1.5x 60'' with stock suspension and full weight. im sure it would have had I been given the time to loosen it up more.
choices choices. there are some reputable builders out there, but Revmax let the cat out of the bag. I would guess the 258mm will always be better since there is more surface friction. I never ran lockup on my PTC 3200 10''. it was almost taking me to 1.5x 60'' with stock suspension and full weight. im sure it would have had I been given the time to loosen it up more.
