The Ultimate 4L60E 3/4 Clutch ?
06-16-2021, 09:10 PM
#61
TECH Junkie
I don't know if I missed it, but how did the Blue Plates do? Are they streetable? I have a similar Smart Drum, the 77733-11KA I think, it sounds th e same but comes with the HD input shaft and the reinforcement sleeve pre-installed. I haven't decided on clutches yet. I ran across a YT video by Raybestos and kinda asked about using then in a street/strip car and they sorta made it sound like "whatcha waiting for?" which sounded like a green light to use them. The only comments I've read about them here were mostly 5-10 years old and things change, so still have not decided... Thanks for any help.
They are Hyped-up/ Marketed as Drag Racing Frictions...
I am going to give you a General-Rule in regard to Automatic Transmission Building: Don't Believe the Hype!
90 Percent of the time, the Friction Material is not important/ relevant... There are some situations where a certain Friction Material may be better suited to a particular Clutch Pack...
But not often!
I do not like much of anything about the Raybestos Blue Plate Special Frictions...
However I have seen some Builders swear-by-them; I don't know why.
One of the very few applications that I do use them is in 4L60E/ THM700-R4 Trans-Brake Builds...
Some of the Blue Plate Special Frictions are "High-Static" Tan colored Frictions.
For example, I would use them in the Low-Reverse Clutch Pack for a 4L60E/ THM700-R4 Trans-Brake Build.
Also a particular Friction material may be good for different types of Clutch Packs; like the Borg Warner Tan Frictions...
But many of the Performance Marketed Frictions are only worth it in specific situations; like the Low-Reverse Trans-Brake application I mentioned.
When you see Raybestos Stage 1 Frictions sold as a kit for all of the Clutch Packs in a Transmission; like for the 4L80E...
That would be a waste of money. I actually like the Tan Borg Warner Frictions that came in the Early 4L80E Transmissions.
I would only use the High-Energy Frictions or Stage 1 Frictions for the Direct Clutch... Tan Frictions work well for all the of the other Clutch Packs.
Actually the Tan Frictions can work in the Direct also long term with some Hydraulic Tweaks.
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matermark (10-26-2021)
06-17-2021, 12:16 AM
#62
In post #16 in this thread, I recommended using Raybestos Stage 1 frictions only when using my special set up. It gave me really good results, the key was the making the bottom apply plate strong to prevent flexing. I copied the old B&M 3-4 apply plate (for those who remember it), it looked like the one sonnax makes now. I just made it a little wider to use with TH350 frictions.
06-17-2021, 12:41 AM
#63
TECH Junkie
In post #16 in this thread, I recommended using Raybestos Stage 1 frictions only when using my special set up. It gave me really good results, the key was the making the bottom apply plate strong to prevent flexing. I copied the old B&M 3-4 apply plate (for those who remember it), it looked like the one sonnax makes now. I just made it a little wider to use with TH350 frictions.
I also sometime use Raybestos Stage 1 Frictions in this Drum...
and more often I use Raybestos GPZ Frictions instead.
I use Raybestos Stage 1 Frictions in select Clutch Packs inside Power-Glides, THM350s, THM400s, THM200s, THM200-4Rs, 4L80Es, Etc.
I like these Frictions when the application calls for it.
06-25-2021, 07:53 PM
#64
Moderator
Thread Starter
I don't know if I missed it, but how did the Blue Plates do? Are they streetable? I have a similar Smart Drum, the 77733-11KA I think, it sounds th e same but comes with the HD input shaft and the reinforcement sleeve pre-installed. I haven't decided on clutches yet. I ran across a YT video by Raybestos and kinda asked about using then in a street/strip car and they sorta made it sound like "whatcha waiting for?" which sounded like a green light to use them. The only comments I've read about them here were mostly 5-10 years old and things change, so still have not decided... Thanks for any help.
The Blue Frictions did not last long. A year after using them for my 3/4 clutch, I opened the trans for more experimentation and while there checked the 3/4 clutch. While it had never slipped, the blue frictions had worn significantly and increased the clutch clearance. So maybe they are like "R" rubber tires - they stick very well, but don't last long. So unless you are the type who is going to rebuild their trans every year or few thousand miles, I would stay away from them and instead stick with the proven Borg Warner High-Energy or Raybestos GPZ frictions for the 3/4 clutch.
06-25-2021, 08:10 PM
#65
TECH Apprentice
Sorry to have missed your post on my old thread.
The Blue Frictions did not last long. A year after using them for my 3/4 clutch, I opened the trans for more experimentation and while there checked the 3/4 clutch. While it had never slipped, the blue frictions had worn significantly and increased the clutch clearance. So maybe they are like "R" rubber tires - they stick very well, but don't last long. So unless you are the type who is going to rebuild their trans every year or few thousand miles, I would stay away from them and instead stick with the proven Borg Warner High-Energy or Raybestos GPZ frictions for the 3/4 clutch.
The Blue Frictions did not last long. A year after using them for my 3/4 clutch, I opened the trans for more experimentation and while there checked the 3/4 clutch. While it had never slipped, the blue frictions had worn significantly and increased the clutch clearance. So maybe they are like "R" rubber tires - they stick very well, but don't last long. So unless you are the type who is going to rebuild their trans every year or few thousand miles, I would stay away from them and instead stick with the proven Borg Warner High-Energy or Raybestos GPZ frictions for the 3/4 clutch.
