4l60e problems
12-13-2012, 11:22 AM
#41
I do not reccomend drilling the holes in the plate that big. They shift way too hard. Are you reusing the stock plate? Does it have wear from the check *****? If the plate has any wear I always replace the plate with a new Transgo. They are thicker than stock, I also replace all 8 steel check ***** with plastic Torlon check ***** that will not wear the plate anymore. You are going to have to pull this thing out and take it back apart. I do not think you are going to fix it from under the car. I thnik your problem is either a torn lip seal or something wrong with the teflon rings on the input shaft. Make sure none of the solenoids have popped out of the valve body, missing clips. I have had this happen to a guy trying to build his own trans before. Left the clip off the 3-2 downshift solenoid.
I like to use this Sonnax Performance Pack instructions as a guide to drill the plate. They are a little more conservative.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...L60E-01-IN.pdf
Also not a big fan of the Transgo kit, Sonnax stuff is way better.
I like to use this Sonnax Performance Pack instructions as a guide to drill the plate. They are a little more conservative.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...L60E-01-IN.pdf
Also not a big fan of the Transgo kit, Sonnax stuff is way better.
Absolutely 100% right on!!
12-15-2012, 11:41 AM
#42
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Ok guys just wanted to know what the line pressure should be on my truck with the Transgo hd-2 kit? What would it be in drive idle and reverse etc? I did a pressure test last night and my reverse idle was 140 psi and my drive idle was 120 but then drop to 90. Is the pressure suppose to fluctuate? Thanks
12-15-2012, 12:11 PM
#43
yes it will change as the load changes or as the pcm thinks it changed.. The best way to check it is use a scan tool with bi-directional controls to manipulate the current to the force motor.
12-15-2012, 05:20 PM
#44
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I kinda covered line pressure in my post #4 of this thread.
Blipping the throttle should give you close to max pressure. My last test gave me max 225 with the Sonnax .500 boost valves and springs; I recall that the Transgo HD2 was about the same.
The computer controls the "Pressure Control Solenoid" (PCS) which in turn can change it between the min and max values that the boost valve with its springs allows.
Blipping the throttle should give you close to max pressure. My last test gave me max 225 with the Sonnax .500 boost valves and springs; I recall that the Transgo HD2 was about the same.
The computer controls the "Pressure Control Solenoid" (PCS) which in turn can change it between the min and max values that the boost valve with its springs allows.
12-16-2012, 01:23 PM
#45
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I kinda covered line pressure in my post #4 of this thread.
Blipping the throttle should give you close to max pressure. My last test gave me max 225 with the Sonnax .500 boost valves and springs; I recall that the Transgo HD2 was about the same.
The computer controls the "Pressure Control Solenoid" (PCS) which in turn can change it between the min and max values that the boost valve with its springs allows.
Blipping the throttle should give you close to max pressure. My last test gave me max 225 with the Sonnax .500 boost valves and springs; I recall that the Transgo HD2 was about the same.
The computer controls the "Pressure Control Solenoid" (PCS) which in turn can change it between the min and max values that the boost valve with its springs allows.
12-16-2012, 10:25 PM
#46
Blipping the throttle is quickly hitting the gas hard enough to max out line pressure without holding it long enough to make the vehicle move. The same thing can be done by just unplugging the electrical connector and starting the vehicle... Do that and post results. I still suspect the 3-4 clutch is burnt up....
12-18-2012, 05:07 PM
#47
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Blipping the throttle is quickly hitting the gas hard enough to max out line pressure without holding it long enough to make the vehicle move. The same thing can be done by just unplugging the electrical connector and starting the vehicle... Do that and post results. I still suspect the 3-4 clutch is burnt up....
12-18-2012, 05:20 PM
#48
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Please re-read my post #4. We have now ruled out #1 (low pressure), but #2 (a leak in the servo area) or a damaged teflon sealing ring on the input shaft is the next thing to consider.
The ATSG manual has the procedure for checking the 3rd accumulator check valve. (With VB removed, basically fill the area with ATF and make sure none leaks out of the case.)
Assuming the trans is going to be removed and opened up, have the mechanic bench test the input drum/shaft installed into the pump for leakage. (Basically using a rubber tipped air gun test the 3rd feed hole in the pump and check that the 3-4 clutch engages firmly.) This should always be done during final assembly, but doing it before dissassembly can help pinpoint the problem.
I'm sure more experienced builders like carlsonauto can give you additional advice.
Ted.
The ATSG manual has the procedure for checking the 3rd accumulator check valve. (With VB removed, basically fill the area with ATF and make sure none leaks out of the case.)
Assuming the trans is going to be removed and opened up, have the mechanic bench test the input drum/shaft installed into the pump for leakage. (Basically using a rubber tipped air gun test the 3rd feed hole in the pump and check that the 3-4 clutch engages firmly.) This should always be done during final assembly, but doing it before dissassembly can help pinpoint the problem.
I'm sure more experienced builders like carlsonauto can give you additional advice.
Ted.
12-19-2012, 12:34 AM
#49
Please re-read my post #4. We have now ruled out #1 (low pressure), but #2 (a leak in the servo area) or a damaged teflon sealing ring on the input shaft is the next thing to consider.
The ATSG manual has the procedure for checking the 3rd accumulator check valve. (With VB removed, basically fill the area with ATF and make sure none leaks out of the case.)
Assuming the trans is going to be removed and opened up, have the mechanic bench test the input drum/shaft installed into the pump for leakage. (Basically using a rubber tipped air gun test the 3rd feed hole in the pump and check that the 3-4 clutch engages firmly.) This should always be done during final assembly, but doing it before dissassembly can help pinpoint the problem.
I'm sure more experienced builders like carlsonauto can give you additional advice.
Ted.
The ATSG manual has the procedure for checking the 3rd accumulator check valve. (With VB removed, basically fill the area with ATF and make sure none leaks out of the case.)
Assuming the trans is going to be removed and opened up, have the mechanic bench test the input drum/shaft installed into the pump for leakage. (Basically using a rubber tipped air gun test the 3rd feed hole in the pump and check that the 3-4 clutch engages firmly.) This should always be done during final assembly, but doing it before dissassembly can help pinpoint the problem.
I'm sure more experienced builders like carlsonauto can give you additional advice.
Ted.
12-20-2012, 07:58 PM
#50
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ted is right on. Make sure you do an air test when you disassemble the trans. Also if you have the technology take some pictures of your 3-4 clutch pack when you remove it and post them up. What kind of clutch count and clearance were you running in the 3-4 clutch? Also what kind of material were your clutches? I dont recall you mentioning what kind of vehicle and roughly what power level you are running either. That information may be helpful as well.
12-26-2012, 06:40 PM
#51
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ted is right on. Make sure you do an air test when you disassemble the trans. Also if you have the technology take some pictures of your 3-4 clutch pack when you remove it and post them up. What kind of clutch count and clearance were you running in the 3-4 clutch? Also what kind of material were your clutches? I dont recall you mentioning what kind of vehicle and roughly what power level you are running either. That information may be helpful as well.
12-29-2012, 08:36 AM
#52
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Hey guys I had another question about the 3-4 clutch pack I just got the raybestos z pak and it says to use the load springs but the Transgo says not to. Just wanted your guys 2 cents about the load springs. Also the z pak says .050-.070 is the clearance is that good or should it be less? Thanks
We had a discussion about the Z-pak clearance here several months ago and the experts said to follow the instructions and aim for .050 clearance. The important clearance is not so much the total clearance as the clearance per friction. Since the Z-pak has 14 single-side frictions and you want at least .004 clearance per friction, that comes out to .056 total clearance. One expert builder said he tried smaller clearance, but the frictions quickly wore down to have .050 clearance.
