4l60e problems
1. The pump is not producing enough pressure, the Pressure control solenoid is not working, or the PCM is not programmed correctly. These can all be tested by connecting a pressure gauge to the trans. It should be 60-90psi at idle in Park or Drive. It should be almost double that in Reverse. Blipping the throttle in Drive should give you 170psi, or even 220 if you have a bigger boost valve installed.
2. There is a leak in the servo area. A possible problem is a worn out 3-4 accumulator check ball" which is in the case behind the servo. If this leaks, the 3-4 clutch will slip. Or just replace it.
3. There is a leak in the input drum, either at the teflon seals or at the 3-4 piston. I would test the input drum immediately after removing it and before disassembly. Do an air test on the 3-4 clutch hole in the input shaft. There is a small bleed in the input drum which you can plug with your finger. Other than that it should hold air. (Exception - if the 3-4 checkball was replaced with the Transgo bleed cartridge, plug that with your finger too. Obviously this test should be done after rebuilding the input drum too.
If not already, I would suggest installing a .500 boost valve as this will give you higher line pressure if programmed. This only requires dropping the pan.
If you do remove and open the trans, rebuild the 3/4 clutch with a quality 4L65E 7-friction kit; Borg Warner Hi-Energy is recommended.
After the rebuild and before any heavy duty usage, hook up a pressure gauge and check the line pressure as above.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I'm not an expert, but these are my suggestions.
1. The pump is not producing enough pressure, the Pressure control solenoid is not working, or the PCM is not programmed correctly. These can all be tested by connecting a pressure gauge to the trans. It should be 60-90psi at idle in Park or Drive. It should be almost double that in Reverse. Blipping the throttle in Drive should give you 170psi, or even 220 if you have a bigger boost valve installed.
2. There is a leak in the servo area. A possible problem is a worn out 3-4 accumulator check ball" which is in the case behind the servo. If this leaks, the 3-4 clutch will slip. Or just replace it.
3. There is a leak in the input drum, either at the teflon seals or at the 3-4 piston. I would test the input drum immediately after removing it and before disassembly. Do an air test on the 3-4 clutch hole in the input shaft. There is a small bleed in the input drum which you can plug with your finger. Other than that it should hold air. (Exception - if the 3-4 checkball was replaced with the Transgo bleed cartridge, plug that with your finger too. Obviously this test should be done after rebuilding the input drum too.
If not already, I would suggest installing a .500 boost valve as this will give you higher line pressure if programmed. This only requires dropping the pan.
If you do remove and open the trans, rebuild the 3/4 clutch with a quality 4L65E 7-friction kit; Borg Warner Hi-Energy is recommended.
After the rebuild and before any heavy duty usage, hook up a pressure gauge and check the line pressure as above.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I'm not an expert, but these are my suggestions.
I'm wondering if the OP actually has 1st and 3rd, and no 2nd & 4th ( could be a band or servo issue).
Aukai25: Are you referring to which gear you think the trans is in, or which shifter position you have the trans in. In my post above, I assumed that 3rd and 4th gear were slipping after the car had accelerated out of 2nd gear.
However, if instead you mean that the trans slips from a dead-start with the shifter in [D3] or [D4]/[OD], but not in [D1] or [D2], then the forward sprag is slipping. This will require pulling the trans and replacing the sprag inside the input drum. Use a Borg Warner dual-cage for maximum durability.
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It is starting to sound like the forward sprag is slipping.
With the shifter in [D1] and [D2], the overrun clutch is engaged and assists the sprag. With the shifter in [D3], the overrun clutch is not engaged in 1st or 2nd gear. With the shifter in [D4], the overrun clutch is not engaged at all.
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If you put the shifter in 3 or D range IE 3rd gear (1 down from overdrive range) what does it do when you take off from a stop? does it shift or does it slip? If it shifts, how many times does it shift before it starts slipping??
As I mentioned earlier, you NEED to get the line pressure checked to determine the next step. The HD2 kit includes a .500 boost valve, but if it was installed incorrectly or any part of the kit was installed incorrectly, the trans could fail.
As carlsonauto asked, we need to know exactly in what shifter positions and which gears the trans slips. That is the first step.
You say "if i leave the shifter in 3 and take off from there it shifts twice", but don't mention if it slips. I am very precise in my posts - for shifter position I use [D1], [D2], [D3] and [D4]/[OD]. I use "1st gear", "2nd gear", etc; I never say just 1,2,3 as that is ambiguous. We need to know exactly in which position the shifter is and which gears, if any, then slip.
A seriously cracked 3-4 accumulator piston could cause a slip. Or a seriously worn bore. The Sonnax Pinless piston is a good cure for this, possibly with a new sleeve.
The "3 washers" only affect how firm the 1-2 shift is; that does not appear to be the problem here.







