no first or second gear 4l60e
no first or second gear 4l60e Have a weird issue with a 4l60e. When selected in drive it will start from 3rd gear and eventually shift to fourth and do lockup correctly, but will never go below the 3rd gear. This was verified with the scanner commanding gears manually and checking what gears the computer is commanding. If i put the transmission manually in first gear it will bind, it feels like holding the brake while trying to apply throttle.
Old thread update:
It was a cross leak in one of the seals on the shaft that caused the issue.
Old thread update:
It was a cross leak in one of the seals on the shaft that caused the issue.
Last edited by yevgenievich; Apr 18, 2016 at 04:06 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
Sounds kind of like the 3-4 clutches are welded. If you commanded 2nd gear with a scan tool it should have locked up then as well unless I am thinking wrong. Either way I think if it binds in manual low it needs to come out and get taken apart.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Interesting possibility. If Shift solenoid "B" were burnt out, you would lose 1st and 2nd gear; you should also get a MIL light.
I always forget to ask if the MIL light is on because I assume people would mention if it is.
So, perhaps putting in two new $12 shift solenoids might be a good test.
Look for excessive crud in the existing solenoid filters.
I always forget to ask if the MIL light is on because I assume people would mention if it is.
So, perhaps putting in two new $12 shift solenoids might be a good test.
Look for excessive crud in the existing solenoid filters.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
also the amount of crap in the bottom of the pan will tell you a story too. If its clean and has only a small amount of crap in the bottom its probably not catastrophic. If the pan is full of chunks and or clutch material it pretty much tells the tale... I assume that if you had a scan tool plugged in you checked trouble codes?? If it is an electrical issue it SHOULD (not will but should) have a code of some nature. If its a mechanical issue it may or may not, part failure, stuck valve, clogged or stuck solenoid... etc..
it is showing no codes at the moment, i already replaced the tcc and pwm solenoids thinking the issue was with stuck lockup originally and the amount of material in the pan appeared to be normal. So what other solenoids should i try replacing together with solenoid "B" ? If this is more involved than solenoid issue i will probably be scrapping the auto and going to a manual.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Considering the effort to drop the pan, I would suggest replacing both shift solenoids. There are under $15 from many places, $12 here:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035393a.htm
They are very easy to replace, just one clip holds them in just like the pwm solenoid you already replaced. One solenoid is spring loaded with two (2) pounds of force, so push the solenoid in as you pop off the clip.
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035393a.htm
They are very easy to replace, just one clip holds them in just like the pwm solenoid you already replaced. One solenoid is spring loaded with two (2) pounds of force, so push the solenoid in as you pop off the clip.
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On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
dont forget to replace the 3-2 solenoid!! That is the one I see fail the most. With what you are describing is fairly likely that it could be the issue... You should be able to replace both shift solenoids and the 3-2 for under $50 easily...
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