Troubleshooting 4L60e (No Drive)
Troubleshooting 4L60e (No Drive) Rebuilt a 4L60e for a '94 with a Yank 3000 stall and got the transmission installed in the car tonight. Here's what's happened:
-Put tranny fluid in (empty trans)
-Started car, immediately checked/added fluid
-Put car in reverse (on jack stands) and the wheels turned immediately
-Shifted to drive and the wheels did not spin at all
-Reved engine up to 3500ish RPM, wheels started spinning
-(Still in drive) let off gas, Wheels spun freely at idle
-Shifted down to "1"-wheels stopped spinning
-let car off jack stands, reversed out of garage (just fine)
-Car does not move forward in drive
Any idea whats going on here? After the initial install, we did fill it with fluid, let the car idle, and then flush the fluid before we did all this. We always quadruple checked the tranny fluid levels.
Thanks in advance for any help.
-Put tranny fluid in (empty trans)
-Started car, immediately checked/added fluid
-Put car in reverse (on jack stands) and the wheels turned immediately
-Shifted to drive and the wheels did not spin at all
-Reved engine up to 3500ish RPM, wheels started spinning
-(Still in drive) let off gas, Wheels spun freely at idle
-Shifted down to "1"-wheels stopped spinning
-let car off jack stands, reversed out of garage (just fine)
-Car does not move forward in drive
Any idea whats going on here? After the initial install, we did fill it with fluid, let the car idle, and then flush the fluid before we did all this. We always quadruple checked the tranny fluid levels.
Thanks in advance for any help.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
Off the top of my head without putting much thought into it I would say there is either an issue with the forward clutch or the forward sprag was installed backwards... Could also be an issue with the low roller clutch. A line pressure check would help and also you said in low the wheels stop moving... do they lock up in manual low or just coast to a stop?
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
Yes it would in manual positions but it would be very weak as it would be using only the overrun clutches for forward. If it locks up in manual low the sprag is not the issue... valve body gaskets incorrect?? Checkball missing or in the wrong spot??? Solenoid/electrical issue?? Thats where I would start..
There are a few bolts for the valvebody that have to go in an exact location...three 8mm headed long bolts..but usually this causes reverse and second gear issues if installed wrong
Did you do a full rebuild? What all did you replace?
We replaced all the clutches/clutch packs/worn seals with just a standard rebuild kit. We also did a transgo HD2 shift kit.
So, just narrowing down unlikely areas:
-Most likely not the drive sprag, becuase of lockup when downshifted to "1", and "1" and "2" don't have movement.
-Most likely not incorrect Valve body bolt locations because R isn't an issue (also forgot to add we did torque them to spec 90in lbs I believe)
also,
Petroleum Jelly was used to hold the check ***** in place when re-installed. When up on jackstands the initial time after the tranny install, we just let it idle in Park, (not in gear) then we flushed the fluid (no front brakes on the car at the time-we were painting calipers-so we couldn't shift out of park without making a big mess). Is it possible there is still petroleum jelly in the valve body because we didn't put it in gear during the initial run? Could that cause these issues?
So, just narrowing down unlikely areas:
-Most likely not the drive sprag, becuase of lockup when downshifted to "1", and "1" and "2" don't have movement.
-Most likely not incorrect Valve body bolt locations because R isn't an issue (also forgot to add we did torque them to spec 90in lbs I believe)
also,
Petroleum Jelly was used to hold the check ***** in place when re-installed. When up on jackstands the initial time after the tranny install, we just let it idle in Park, (not in gear) then we flushed the fluid (no front brakes on the car at the time-we were painting calipers-so we couldn't shift out of park without making a big mess). Is it possible there is still petroleum jelly in the valve body because we didn't put it in gear during the initial run? Could that cause these issues?
Last edited by MasterTomos; Dec 26, 2012 at 01:17 AM.
We replaced all the clutches/clutch packs/worn seals with just a standard rebuild kit. We also did a transgo HD2 shift kit.
So, just narrowing down unlikely areas:
-Most likely not the drive sprag, becuase of lockup when downshifted to "1", and "1" and "2" don't have movement.
-Most likely not incorrect Valve body bolt locations because R isn't an issue (also forgot to add we did torque them to spec 90in lbs I believe)
also,
Petroleum Jelly was used to hold the check ***** in place when re-installed. When up on jackstands the initial time after the tranny install, we just let it idle in Park, (not in gear) then we flushed the fluid (no front brakes on the car at the time-we were painting calipers-so we couldn't shift out of park without making a big mess). Is it possible there is still petroleum jelly in the valve body because we didn't put it in gear during the initial run? Could that cause these issues?
So, just narrowing down unlikely areas:
-Most likely not the drive sprag, becuase of lockup when downshifted to "1", and "1" and "2" don't have movement.
-Most likely not incorrect Valve body bolt locations because R isn't an issue (also forgot to add we did torque them to spec 90in lbs I believe)
also,
Petroleum Jelly was used to hold the check ***** in place when re-installed. When up on jackstands the initial time after the tranny install, we just let it idle in Park, (not in gear) then we flushed the fluid (no front brakes on the car at the time-we were painting calipers-so we couldn't shift out of park without making a big mess). Is it possible there is still petroleum jelly in the valve body because we didn't put it in gear during the initial run? Could that cause these issues?
Pull the valve body...make sure all check ***** are in the right spot...1 in case by 3-4 acc bore and 7 on the valvebody side..
also make sure no o-ring fell out of the pressure manifold switch..that would cause a leak
..also maybe check the forward acc piston in the valve body..its under the cover on the end with 3 8mm headed bolts
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There hasn't been any leaking at all. From your experience, is it pretty easy to pull out the valve body without dropping out the whole transmission (just taking off the pan?)
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Verdad Gallardo -Do you by chance know how much fluid you added? I think I usually add at least 2 gallons before initial movement occurs, then maybe another 2-3 quarts on top of that before the level is right..
-Did you replace all 4 teflon seals on the input shaft? or re-use the old ones?
-Did you air check the forwards clutches? you can do this with the input drum by itself, and/or with the input drum and the pump connected..
We are between 10 and 11 quarts total right now in the car. I am uncertain on the teflon seals, I wasn't around the whole time during the re-assembly.
In my mind, it seems like it should be something with the valve body, seeing as that controls most of the shifting business. Once we got the tires to spin with the car on jack stands, they spun well/responded to throttle ect. No shifting, however.
What do you mean by "air check the forward clutches"? I am not familiar with this term.
In my mind, it seems like it should be something with the valve body, seeing as that controls most of the shifting business. Once we got the tires to spin with the car on jack stands, they spun well/responded to throttle ect. No shifting, however.
What do you mean by "air check the forward clutches"? I am not familiar with this term.
Honestly, I doubt they air checked them, because my air compressor hasn't moved lol. If those teflon rings were bad, could it cause the symptoms described in the first post?
