Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

The right one is a little higher than I remembered. I looked up my receipt! Good Converters aren't cheep.

TCI-242938 TORQUE CONVERTOR - $488.39

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

I had a Cartek 224/228 with my stock verter...ran 12.4's...ran fine, drove very nice, but just switching converters to a barely noticeable 3500 w/ 2.5 str (was vert tight) knocked off 1/2 second!

Dont for a minute think these are converters of the old days, where a 3500 stall..FELT like a 3500 stall...these verts get you going without much pedal and lock-up easy and early in most cases. I cant tell you what to buy, but either will do you well. The cam will give you some power, just not max power..the new verter will probably use the power you have much more effectively.(not efficiently)

2000WS6Vert

Thanks Colonel.........that's exactly what I was looking for!

2003blue5.7

yank is too high in price...

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

you get what you pay for. if you cant handle Yank's prices, there are cheaper alternatives. but you wont get the full advantage of a great convertor.

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

That is true to a POINT, yanks convertors are VERY overpriced for what they are, and there customer service leaves something to be desired. I have been VERY happy with my TCI SSF 3500, TCI is always happy to answer any questions, or help in any way. The TCI's are half the price of the yanks and you can get them on the phone whenever you need. Call Kevin W at TCI, and tell him what you want and he will hook you up, believe me you wont be disappointed

samz28

yah the tci ssf 3500 is a great verter for a near stock no cam car.

way too small for my 224/226 cam/boltons car.

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

It runs pretty dang quick, in my 228/234 bolt on car and it seems to do REALLY good on the bottle

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

An SS3600 is going to feel very tight in a WS6 and would be a great addition. I agree with the 220/220 114 cam recommendation if stay with the stock converter.

My first converter was Yank's TT2800 3.0. That would do the trick if you had nittos, but I don't know if they still offer it.

Torqued

Tell me if this makes any sense...I am looking for a cam, maybe TEAs also, rather than a converter upgrade because I'm concerned that the extra stress of the converter will push my trans over the edge (quicker). And when the trans goes, crap may get run through a relatively new $700 converter shortening its life. I have 86K on the original transmission and part throttle shifts are occasionally sloppy. When the trans craps out after the cam and heads, I'll deal with it then and choose the proper converter at that time.

The car is a 98Z with basic boltons with Hooker LTs and without a ASP pulley. It runs consistantly 13.0-13.1s on KDWSs in the 108s.

I'm looking for a cam that will give 80% of the power and drivabilty without programming, with the stock converter. Given that I can't decide between the MTIs SS2 or TRs Old Man cam. I am not limited to a Stealth style cam it's just that they seem to fit the above requirements. If a TR224 were driveable I'd choose that. How it sounds is not important.


Thanks.

samz28

without a stall you are going to be missing out on the added rpm power band plain and simple. The SE of the stock verter is going to make your mods a waste imo.

If i had to stick to the stock verter i'd just spray. 100-150 shot wet and be done with it. Then again you do anything to a tired trans, and its gonna die.

seems like you should address the transmission first. rebuild her, beef it up, put a stall in it. Do it right.

Rebuild trans
Stall(shift kit/great cooler)
then worry about the cam/heads.

tuning is a must anyways.. It's not like its that expensive, but gives great gains.

thats my logic anyways. fix the trans b4 it dies

Wesley SS

I ran the TR224 12 on stock vertor and untuned for a while and ran a consistent 12.5 at around 111-112 it was pretty good on the street and it bucked a little when slowing to around 30mph.