Ok, i have a few questions...

First off, the car is a 2001 trans am, pretty much stock other than exhaust, stock 3.23 gears in the rear, so what would be a good stall speed for a street driven car (maybe 90/10 street/track)

What all will i need for this swap other than the obvious (the converter), tranny cooler? Trans temp gauge?

Anything else i need to do?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

I would go with something like a 3200 stall. If you plan on headers and cam later on, go higher like 3600.

But for a mainly street car with minimal mods you don't need more than a 3200.

 

Smallest I suggest is a 3600, anything smaller and you will wish you had.

Trans cooler and fluid..

Shift kit and a deeper pan is recommended but not mandatory.

I recommend ptc out of Alabama.

 

3200-3600 and you cant go wrong. stall is the best bang for your buck mod for autos and will support everything else down the road, plus youll be glad once you get a cam

 

just my exp with a 3600 stall, have a 2004 silverado with stage 2.5 heads and mid range comp cam, has a 3600 stall converter, i have my T/A as my DD so i only drive this truck when the cars down but it gets REALLY old after a few days of driving it, ur constantly at 3000-3600 rpms depending on how much ur in the gas, cause of this i get 6-7mpg average, on a positive, if i nail it off the line it takes off like a mf, so at a drag strip or weekend racing etc its cool, so it does what its suppose to do but, im currently looking for a stock stall on local CL to see if its drivable with it as im do not like mine but, thats me, i would suggest a 2200-2400 stall as thats what i would like just dont have the funds for it atm so a $50 stock one is more for me atm, but my $0.02

 

From what I understand a stall shouldn't dictate what rpm you cruise at? So I'm not quite sure what you mean by you're always at 3000-3600 rpm normal driving, because unless I'm wrong a stall should change none of that...

 

I'm running a 3600 and saw no change in normal cruising rpm. Only difference I found was that before the cam it took a little more to get moving. It didn't creep forward as much just idling. If you have to drive at those rpms I'd guess its slipping more than it should. Does it actually brake stall at 3600? It could be improperly set up but I'd guess its slipping more than it should. Could also be a non lockup converter.

 

I don't think he's describing it correctly, or he's ALWAYS on the gas accelerating hard no matter where he goes.

Once locked, the RPMs will be the same as stock which is dependent on the trans and rear end gearing. Even when unlocked, the RPMs aren't always at 3000-3600 unless you are hard on the pedal. Just putting around town with a 3600 stall you can keep it under 2000 if you really try and under 2500 even accelerating briskly. To get it over the 3000 range you really are getting on it with a 3600 stall. Maybe a 4400+ stall you're always above 3000 even when barely touching the gas.

 

3600 ftw

 

With my 4400 and stock 323s with an ms4 cam 2500 was a quick pick up.. 3000 and i was pulling away from people from red lights pretty quickly.

 

Dont think about getting a stall...just get one!
My car is based along the lines of what you want. Mainly a street car. I did the ss3600. Very easy to drive and dosent lack on performance so thats my advice.

I use an aeroforce gauge that reads a **** ton of things. It was easy and plugs into the obd.

I am currently running a b&m cooler. The 14,400 btu I believe.

 

My stall locks at 42mph currently.
When I had 3.23 bolt on stall only it locked at 38mph. After it locks then its just like stock.

 

Also... The difference taking off from a red light with a 3200 and a 4000 RPM range is minimal.

The difference in performance between those two sizes is huge.

 

I've had a TCI 3000 and Yank SS3600 in my daily driver and both have had great driveability, but I wouldn't want any more looseness than the 3600 for daily driving.

IMO, you want a 9.5" converter body with billet front cover, a Transgo HD-2 shift kit, and computer tuning for overall satisfactory performance.

 

if im cruising, using cruise control or not acc, like 45-50mph it will lock up in 4th and stay at normal stall status, but if its not its usually around 3k give or take, can tune effect the way a stall converter works? the tune on the truck was absolutely terrible and i had a friend re do the engine tune so it would idle normal and run but we never touched tranny, waiting for my T/A to be done this spring/summer then im taking it to get dyno tuned properly

 

Daily drove a vigilante 3200 for 3 years. Then stepped up to a circle D 5c 4000 stall. It drove the same honestly. Very surprised. And the 4000 pulled like a monster. The 3200 was okay but boring compared to the 4000 stall.

Honestly go with the 4000.. But if you really think that's too much go no smaller than a 3800.