4L80E junkyard horsepower
03-06-2013, 04:15 PM
#1
4L80E junkyard horsepower Im not sure if this exact question has been asked but I didnt find it.
Can I grab a junkyard 80E, possibly do the transgo kit and use a Jake's manual box (no computer control) and beat the hell out of it in a 3k lb car at 800whp with a nice converter ?
I think I can grab one at a local U Pull it for a decent price.
I currently have a manual valve body TH400 in there but getting ready to upgrade converters so I was curious before i spent the money on a converter if I should swap over to the 80E
Can I grab a junkyard 80E, possibly do the transgo kit and use a Jake's manual box (no computer control) and beat the hell out of it in a 3k lb car at 800whp with a nice converter ?
I think I can grab one at a local U Pull it for a decent price.
I currently have a manual valve body TH400 in there but getting ready to upgrade converters so I was curious before i spent the money on a converter if I should swap over to the 80E
03-06-2013, 04:27 PM
#2
Interested in some responses.. Im looking at 700Rw @ 33xx# for the time being so curious to see some input. If it will hold as much than my built 4l60e ill make the switch since ill probably end up with money in pocket.
Any specific year 4l80 I need to be looking at? 2000 trans am 6.0 block
Any specific year 4l80 I need to be looking at? 2000 trans am 6.0 block
03-06-2013, 06:33 PM
#3
It'll live for awhile.
The weak link will ultimately be the input shaft. I've seen some break in stock 6.0L applications, and some live at 1000 RWHP for awhile.
I usually consider the stock shaft fairly safe to about 750 flywheel HP.
The TransGo kit works well for an install without a rebuild, and it increases the pressure.
Leave the pressure relief system off if using their kit. Don't do any gear command mods.
The only real problem with a wrecking yard trans is that other than fluid condition you have no real indication of what's going on internally and even the fluid condition can be misleading.
The stock direct clutch pack is weak. It is usually compromised in even stock applications where the trans was used for heavy towing. By compromised it may be completely burnt or partially burnt but almost always shows signs of overheating in the cores we tear down and see.
The TransGo kit or my calibration kit takes care of that.
Sometimes you have a worn pump, worn or lube starved planets, etc.
If the only thing to lose was the transmission itself and the R&R labor, then it's a cost effective way to have a rugged transmission.
However we're usually dealing with a somewhat expensive converter, plus cooler, and the cost of fluid these days (F*** ME I buy a bunch of that stuff).
The weak link will ultimately be the input shaft. I've seen some break in stock 6.0L applications, and some live at 1000 RWHP for awhile.
I usually consider the stock shaft fairly safe to about 750 flywheel HP.
The TransGo kit works well for an install without a rebuild, and it increases the pressure.
Leave the pressure relief system off if using their kit. Don't do any gear command mods.
The only real problem with a wrecking yard trans is that other than fluid condition you have no real indication of what's going on internally and even the fluid condition can be misleading.
The stock direct clutch pack is weak. It is usually compromised in even stock applications where the trans was used for heavy towing. By compromised it may be completely burnt or partially burnt but almost always shows signs of overheating in the cores we tear down and see.
The TransGo kit or my calibration kit takes care of that.
Sometimes you have a worn pump, worn or lube starved planets, etc.
If the only thing to lose was the transmission itself and the R&R labor, then it's a cost effective way to have a rugged transmission.
However we're usually dealing with a somewhat expensive converter, plus cooler, and the cost of fluid these days (F*** ME I buy a bunch of that stuff).
03-06-2013, 07:27 PM
#4
Jake,
What about a basic overhaul kit and your manual valve body. Can you lock up the converter in 3rd at WOT at the track.
If so is it just on a toggle switch ?
Basically have my local builder freshen it up with whatever parts you recommend and sell me.
Again no electronics.
Thanks.
What about a basic overhaul kit and your manual valve body. Can you lock up the converter in 3rd at WOT at the track.
If so is it just on a toggle switch ?
Basically have my local builder freshen it up with whatever parts you recommend and sell me.
Again no electronics.
Thanks.
03-06-2013, 07:36 PM
#6
my question to poster is why swaping ?
if no overdrive needed then the 400 to 4l80 is same gear ratios 1-2-3 -r
as many years as i have been working in shops i dont realy trust the used auto trannys much as said only way to tell is fluid condition and it could have been flushed / changed and you dont know it.
1 time we got used tranny and swaped in ( was pita ) and swapped pan as thay punched hole to drain fluid . when we got the pan off we found thay punched threw a internal tube that requires whole tranny tear down to swap . we lost all that labor for full redo of tranny swap and extra 2 days with out car for cust.
so check fully out and make informed choice .
if no overdrive needed then the 400 to 4l80 is same gear ratios 1-2-3 -r
as many years as i have been working in shops i dont realy trust the used auto trannys much as said only way to tell is fluid condition and it could have been flushed / changed and you dont know it.
1 time we got used tranny and swaped in ( was pita ) and swapped pan as thay punched hole to drain fluid . when we got the pan off we found thay punched threw a internal tube that requires whole tranny tear down to swap . we lost all that labor for full redo of tranny swap and extra 2 days with out car for cust.
so check fully out and make informed choice .
03-06-2013, 08:00 PM
#7
just researching- the car is a weekend car so overdrive isnt super important but would be a nice perk.
also could run a high stall converter and then be able to lock it up in 3rd under WOT at the track- if that's not possible I will probably not bother.
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03-06-2013, 09:27 PM
#8
Must do mods are dual feed the direct drum, firm up the shifts, and a new filter.
The TransGo kit does the dual feed without going further than the valve body.
My kit requires you to go inside the transmission to dual feed but it works better in my experience.
I also think it's wise to look at the clutches and replace as necessary, as well as look at the pump condition and correct as necessary.
The problem is, this snowballs into a full rebuild. We all have car projects that tend to do that and a transmission is no different.
If you get into it to install my recalibration kit, and discover some or all the clutches are burnt, there is a reason the clutches are burnt. It needs to be fixed too.
So if you want budget, you may be better off doing it blind and hoping for the best. Because if you are like me, you'll get in there and before you are done it'll have all new parts, some billet stuff, a transbrake, a nice clean case, a billet converter stuffed in it, etc.
The TransGo kit does the dual feed without going further than the valve body.
My kit requires you to go inside the transmission to dual feed but it works better in my experience.
I also think it's wise to look at the clutches and replace as necessary, as well as look at the pump condition and correct as necessary.
The problem is, this snowballs into a full rebuild. We all have car projects that tend to do that and a transmission is no different.
If you get into it to install my recalibration kit, and discover some or all the clutches are burnt, there is a reason the clutches are burnt. It needs to be fixed too.
So if you want budget, you may be better off doing it blind and hoping for the best. Because if you are like me, you'll get in there and before you are done it'll have all new parts, some billet stuff, a transbrake, a nice clean case, a billet converter stuffed in it, etc.
