4l60e wot shift HELP
Any checks I can do while I'm here? I'm starting to suspect the solenoids but I'm not sure. Fluid is clean not burnt by any means.
If anyone can post a pic of their trans tables(only web access is my iPhone) I can plug those in and take a crack at it. From the logs it's hitting both rpm and mph thresholds. I just don't know what else to do.
Mods in sig. 3600 yank and 3.73 gears. Changed from 3.42s when I installed a s60 rear.
I did notice that on the last 2 passes it would bounce then eventually shift. Meaning by the time I let out of it it had already shifted. Then coming through the traps it was on the limiter again at 6700. Seems really high for a 3.73 26" tire combo. I could understand if I was spraying it but I wasn't.
I did notice that on the last 2 passes it would bounce then eventually shift. Meaning by the time I let out of it it had already shifted. Then coming through the traps it was on the limiter again at 6700. Seems really high for a 3.73 26" tire combo. I could understand if I was spraying it but I wasn't.
You probably already know all this, but this Sticky gives a good overview:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...tm-w-pics.html
It recommends duplicating the 90% values in the partial throttle shift table in the WOT Shift Speed table.
Personally I set my Shift speed tables corresponding to about a 6300 rpm shift, but then set my WOT shift RPM table to anywhere between 6500 and 7000 at the track. Since my shift-MPH values are fairly low, I can control my shift by only change the RPM values.
You said your trap RPM of 6700 seemed high, but didn't specify your speed. Based on tire size and gear ratio, the theoretical value can be calculated; anything over that is converter slippage which should be (well?) below 5%.
I think I just need to start from square one. I got in a hurry after the car not making a pass for over a year. I should have spent the time to do it properly.
It did the same thing last weekend. I was running a tune that I worked with frost via email. It's the same tune I have used for about three years. Only changes to the tune were to correct the speedo for the new gearing.
Mechanically I have installed the rear, a fast 92, and a nick Williams 92 tb. The car needs a tune in general but I was trying to get a baseline to work from. It doesn't appear to have any install issues, like a vaccum leak or cracking the intake. I had found somewhere on here that some of the trans functions are controlled by the same circuit as the o2s and maf. I don't know if there is a relation to my issue or not.
So your 6700 rpm does sound very high, either your tach is off or your converter or trans is seriously slipping.
Do have HP Tuners or other scanner to log your runs?
I am also suspecting that the gears may not be 3.73s. I noticed my speedo is off about 8-10 mph. I drove past one of the radar trailers on the interstate at what my speedo says was 70 and the box showed 60. So I turned on my gps and it said the same thing, cruising at 80 the GPS showed 70-72. I'm not sure how accurate either of those sources are but it's enough for me to check the ratio.
Last edited by 1320Chicken; Apr 14, 2013 at 04:58 AM.
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Here is an online calculator that might help you:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/rpmcalc.html
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I am not a happy camper about this. I'll be needing to get in touch with strange. All of my paper work lists 3.73s. I know exactly what happened too.
I'm going to jack it up, spin the pinion and count tire rotation to confirm, but like I mentioned this is totally possible. If this is the case no wonder I've been chasing my tail.
Seems like 4.11s would be ideal for me at the track as long as I'm n/a. Problem is I already have a wet kit and intend to use it. Might just run a set of 28s when I spray.
Thank you for all your help. I would have driven myself insane trying to sort this out.
It's not worth it to me to pull the rear and ship it back but at the same time I'm not going to dig into my pocket to swap gears locally. If I can get them to cover the install cost I'll put that toward tires.






