help figuring out my 4l60e problems?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
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help figuring out my 4l60e problems? i had this truck for over a month now. earlier this week it suddenly started acting up. my main issues are with the lock up on my converter, along with hotter temps.
specs are, fresh built lq4 with cam tied to a fresh rebuilt 4l60e with stall. i was told by PO there was just over 200 miles on the build. all invoices are dated from feb. this year so i believe him.
second gear has been soft and slow to shift into and i just got hptuners so while i've been reading how to tune i started adjusting my trans from threads here to clean up the shifts. it never really helped second but i started liking how it performed everywhere else better.
one morning on the way to work lockup never happened. first time for this except for a few delayed times after wot events. i then got the famous p1870 code with harsher 2nd shifts. read read read looking for ideas.
checked my fluid and its higher than i remember it being before, has a little odor to it, and my temps when this occured where in the 220-230 range(analog gauge) for a breif time.
i decided to remove the code and take another test run, got lock up very lightly but produced a p0106 code. maf wires were in a bind so i re routed them and the code went away.
drove it around more and before warming it wont go tcc until 60ish (command is 45), it hits and releases instantly a few times then locks in. after that it will lock in closer to comand. my temps eventually still go up over 210-220 which prior it only would reach stuck in traffic maybe. also the tcc lock up is not as firm as it was before this. its very soft engaugement but will hold once in there.
specs are, fresh built lq4 with cam tied to a fresh rebuilt 4l60e with stall. i was told by PO there was just over 200 miles on the build. all invoices are dated from feb. this year so i believe him.
second gear has been soft and slow to shift into and i just got hptuners so while i've been reading how to tune i started adjusting my trans from threads here to clean up the shifts. it never really helped second but i started liking how it performed everywhere else better.
one morning on the way to work lockup never happened. first time for this except for a few delayed times after wot events. i then got the famous p1870 code with harsher 2nd shifts. read read read looking for ideas.
checked my fluid and its higher than i remember it being before, has a little odor to it, and my temps when this occured where in the 220-230 range(analog gauge) for a breif time.
i decided to remove the code and take another test run, got lock up very lightly but produced a p0106 code. maf wires were in a bind so i re routed them and the code went away.
drove it around more and before warming it wont go tcc until 60ish (command is 45), it hits and releases instantly a few times then locks in. after that it will lock in closer to comand. my temps eventually still go up over 210-220 which prior it only would reach stuck in traffic maybe. also the tcc lock up is not as firm as it was before this. its very soft engaugement but will hold once in there.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 154
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update, i've adjusted my trans settings a little more. decreased my motor force tables removed lockup in third gear, and set my cruise tables to not contridict part throtle tables.
it seemed to help. temps stayed cooler reaching 200 tops and everything worked well, but i had to lift on throttle just a tad to get lockup to grab fully in fourth. last stretch of road coming home when trans fluid reached 200 it started kicking in and out of lock right at 60mph same as it would do before with cold fluid.
while out i picked up a hayden finned rv trans cooler and just finished that install bypassing the radiator cooling. i also picked up more fluid and a filter but i want to give it another test run before digging in that and waiting for a responce here before i remove pan so i don't miss the opertunity to look for something that might get suggested.
it seemed to help. temps stayed cooler reaching 200 tops and everything worked well, but i had to lift on throttle just a tad to get lockup to grab fully in fourth. last stretch of road coming home when trans fluid reached 200 it started kicking in and out of lock right at 60mph same as it would do before with cold fluid.
while out i picked up a hayden finned rv trans cooler and just finished that install bypassing the radiator cooling. i also picked up more fluid and a filter but i want to give it another test run before digging in that and waiting for a responce here before i remove pan so i don't miss the opertunity to look for something that might get suggested.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Since you have HP Tuners, you can use the scanner to log various Trans PIDs while driving around. I forget the exact PID names, but you should log the TCC apply command, trans slippage and simple MPH.
However, any vehicle (especially a truck) with a high stall converter really needs a large trans cooler to keep temps down. Start there and hope for the best.
Was the trans rebuilt with any performance parts? Shift kit? Boost valve?
However, any vehicle (especially a truck) with a high stall converter really needs a large trans cooler to keep temps down. Start there and hope for the best.
Was the trans rebuilt with any performance parts? Shift kit? Boost valve?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
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he said it had upgraded band, but really idk. cost was $800 from reciept. the trans cooler really helped. temp got to about 160ish and its high 80's here today. trans acted right so far.
i'm wondering if the valve to apply tcc is worn and hot fluid pushes by it?
i think i might get a corvette servo on order to help second shift and do my flush and filter change once that comes in.
i'm wondering if the valve to apply tcc is worn and hot fluid pushes by it?
i think i might get a corvette servo on order to help second shift and do my flush and filter change once that comes in.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 154
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after getting more time in the truck and lots of reading here and other places i think what i'd like to do is go ahead and get a rebuilt valve body along with a corvette servo. if that doesn't alieve my issues i'm looking into trans rebuild or replacement along with my converter.
any suggestions on which valve body or kit to look at? here is one on ebay i've come across that sounds good but is it worth the money? better options?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171045336371...ht_2805wt_1122
here is a cheaper one, is it just as good for my purpose minus the corvette servo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251243826651...ht_1317wt_1051
are there any other parts i should look for in the process?
any suggestions on which valve body or kit to look at? here is one on ebay i've come across that sounds good but is it worth the money? better options?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171045336371...ht_2805wt_1122
here is a cheaper one, is it just as good for my purpose minus the corvette servo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251243826651...ht_1317wt_1051
are there any other parts i should look for in the process?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
hope somebody replies to this.....
i just changed my filter and took a test drive. my trans was slipping at anything over 1/4 throttle. did some online reading and came across deep pan/shallow pan. it turns out advanced auto sold me a shallow pan filter, but also the one i pulled out is a shallow pan filter. my pan has the step down just infront of my drivers side exhaust pipe which from what i can tell is the deep pan.
my thinking is i cant get my fluid levels correct because it requires too much fluid to cover the filter properly/ or leaking around pickup???
could this be my source of issues?
Edit
New correct filter is the same one I had so ignore that issue. Idk why the info I found iS on the internet, coated me $50. Anyways, it's slipping bad and I'm having a really hard time getting an accurate fluid level reading. I'm about ready to park it till I can buy a new Trans unless I can get pointed in the right direction.
also i noticed my tcc valve has slop in it. its like there is clearence like spring is too short or something. is that normal for it to shift around easliy?
i just changed my filter and took a test drive. my trans was slipping at anything over 1/4 throttle. did some online reading and came across deep pan/shallow pan. it turns out advanced auto sold me a shallow pan filter, but also the one i pulled out is a shallow pan filter. my pan has the step down just infront of my drivers side exhaust pipe which from what i can tell is the deep pan.
my thinking is i cant get my fluid levels correct because it requires too much fluid to cover the filter properly/ or leaking around pickup???
could this be my source of issues?
Edit
New correct filter is the same one I had so ignore that issue. Idk why the info I found iS on the internet, coated me $50. Anyways, it's slipping bad and I'm having a really hard time getting an accurate fluid level reading. I'm about ready to park it till I can buy a new Trans unless I can get pointed in the right direction.
also i noticed my tcc valve has slop in it. its like there is clearence like spring is too short or something. is that normal for it to shift around easliy?
Last edited by tashspop; Jun 8, 2013 at 07:10 PM.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I suggest hooking up a trans pressure gauge to see what your line pressure is at different times and throttle settings. A trans shop can do that or buy one on ebay for $40; they have a long hose so you can hook the gauge to your outside mirror and drive around. I suspect your pressure is very low; hence it is slipping in all gears.
While the rebuilt valve body (VB) for $350 is very nice, I have had good luck with used ones from ebay for $100; I was even lucky to find a brand new 2006 one for $150. If you really want a "new" one the Sonnax rebuilt one for $250 would be my choice.
However, check line pressure first. Assuming it is very low, I don't know how a VB could cause that. If the line pressure is OK at idle, say 50 lbs, but never goes up with throttle, then I would first replace the EPS (force motor), then check the boost valve and last ponder if a VB problem could cause that.
Also, I assume you have no engine sensor related codes. You might also try disconnecting the MAF and seeing if that makes any difference.
Note: I am kinda guessing here. And hoping that your pump hasn't gone bad. If any of the builders have better ideas, I hope they will augment/correct me.
While the rebuilt valve body (VB) for $350 is very nice, I have had good luck with used ones from ebay for $100; I was even lucky to find a brand new 2006 one for $150. If you really want a "new" one the Sonnax rebuilt one for $250 would be my choice.
However, check line pressure first. Assuming it is very low, I don't know how a VB could cause that. If the line pressure is OK at idle, say 50 lbs, but never goes up with throttle, then I would first replace the EPS (force motor), then check the boost valve and last ponder if a VB problem could cause that.
Also, I assume you have no engine sensor related codes. You might also try disconnecting the MAF and seeing if that makes any difference.
Note: I am kinda guessing here. And hoping that your pump hasn't gone bad. If any of the builders have better ideas, I hope they will augment/correct me.
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
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update, its been slow cause we have a very large agenda this year. i increased my tables to get away from the p0106 code and took a drive. it appears that the slip is occuring in 2nd gear. i also believe its in forth too, but where i drove it was hard to get enough speed to confirm that. i was affraid of getting to far out from house. i did foot break it and it puts all power to the ground in 1st. light throttle it shifts through all gears and locks tcc. it is very slow going into 2nd, and at times i have to let off throttle to let it get there.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Here is a similar recent thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...nead-help.html
Knowing both the line pressure during the 1-2 shift, and the end play of the servo would help greatly in diagnosing/fixing this.
Here is another similar thread from last week.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-concerns.html
In this thread builder Dynamic396 is basically saying the EPC solenoid can stick in various positions, causing both slipping and intermittent problems. Replacing the EPC and the two shift solenoids (about $55 for all) would be my suggestion if your line pressure and end play are OK, and before replacing the entire valve body. (Your builder should have spares to swap out too.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...nead-help.html
Knowing both the line pressure during the 1-2 shift, and the end play of the servo would help greatly in diagnosing/fixing this.
Here is another similar thread from last week.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-concerns.html
In this thread builder Dynamic396 is basically saying the EPC solenoid can stick in various positions, causing both slipping and intermittent problems. Replacing the EPC and the two shift solenoids (about $55 for all) would be my suggestion if your line pressure and end play are OK, and before replacing the entire valve body. (Your builder should have spares to swap out too.)
