converter install question.
converter install question. Is there suppose to be a small gap between my converter mounting pads and flywheel before i begin tightening my converter bolts?
because I have a small gap and cannot push the converter forward toward the flywheel anymore. So what i did was pull the converter toward the flywheel by tightening the 3 converter bolts. is this ok? I noticed while tightening the flywheel would also move toward the converter.
because I have a small gap and cannot push the converter forward toward the flywheel anymore. So what i did was pull the converter toward the flywheel by tightening the 3 converter bolts. is this ok? I noticed while tightening the flywheel would also move toward the converter.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
Yes, there should be a gap of about 1/8" between the flexplate and the converter pads with the converter all the way in. If the gap is more than 1/8", I use shims to make up the difference. It should slide forward fairly easily, though...
Sometimes, if you just tighten one bolt, it will kind of "****" it to one side and put it in a bit of a bind in it so it won't slide forward easily. In this case, I'll usually run the one bolt up snug and then turn the engine over one turn. This will generally seat everything up nicely. If it still doesn't seat together nicely, you'll want to check and make sure the pilot on the front of the converter is seating into the back of the crankshaft properly.
Sometimes, if you just tighten one bolt, it will kind of "****" it to one side and put it in a bit of a bind in it so it won't slide forward easily. In this case, I'll usually run the one bolt up snug and then turn the engine over one turn. This will generally seat everything up nicely. If it still doesn't seat together nicely, you'll want to check and make sure the pilot on the front of the converter is seating into the back of the crankshaft properly.
Yes, there should be a gap of about 1/8" between the flexplate and the converter pads with the converter all the way in. If the gap is more than 1/8", I use shims to make up the difference. It should slide forward fairly easily, though...
Sometimes, if you just tighten one bolt, it will kind of "****" it to one side and put it in a bit of a bind in it so it won't slide forward easily. In this case, I'll usually run the one bolt up snug and then turn the engine over one turn. This will generally seat everything up nicely. If it still doesn't seat together nicely, you'll want to check and make sure the pilot on the front of the converter is seating into the back of the crankshaft properly.
Sometimes, if you just tighten one bolt, it will kind of "****" it to one side and put it in a bit of a bind in it so it won't slide forward easily. In this case, I'll usually run the one bolt up snug and then turn the engine over one turn. This will generally seat everything up nicely. If it still doesn't seat together nicely, you'll want to check and make sure the pilot on the front of the converter is seating into the back of the crankshaft properly.
sounds like the convertor snout is up against the flexplate,which should not be occurring. The convertor should be able to move to the convertor,although you wouldn't want it to because that might dis-engage one of the 3 components in the tranny that the convertor should be engaging. That's the purpose of the gap and using washer/spacers to maintain that gap.
the 'bending' of the flexplate is putting it to a 'cone' shape instead of it's natural flat.
some vendors should post up on this.
the 'bending' of the flexplate is putting it to a 'cone' shape instead of it's natural flat.
some vendors should post up on this.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
you my friend are correct. We pulled out the trans and removed all the paint on the pilot (why did you do this fti lol). I also pushed the converter in a lil further. all went smooth after that. except putting the starter back on =( 2 inch headers in the way.
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