1995 4l60e issues
1995 4l60e issues I have put 500 miles on my fresh 4l60e, went to go put gas in it the other day after not driving it for a week or two and it started acting very odd. The transmission shifted into 2nd normally, then when it went to shift into 3rd it felt like neutral. If I manually shift the transmission starting in 1 it will go though the gears like normal. Transmission pressure is good will hit 200 in drive and 250 in reverse.
Any ideas?
It almost seems to be electric.
Any ideas?
It almost seems to be electric.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I have put 500 miles on my fresh 4l60e, went to go put gas in it the other day after not driving it for a week or two and it started acting very odd. The transmission shifted into 2nd normally, then when it went to shift into 3rd it felt like neutral. If I manually shift the transmission starting in 1 it will go though the gears like normal. Transmission pressure is good will hit 200 in drive and 250 in reverse.
Any ideas?
It almost seems to be electric.
Any ideas?
It almost seems to be electric.
If you can shift into 3rd in [D3] then your 3-4 clutch should be fine.
If you have 1st and 2nd gear in [D4]/[OD] then your forward sprag should be fine.
(Please confirm those to be true.)
Beyond that, it might be sticking valve in the valve body.
Perhaps a more experienced person (and builder) like Dynamic396 has better ideas.
BTW - Glad you already know your line pressures. I assume there are not codes either. Also, here is a good chart for diagnosing trans problems:
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....rence-Material
Nope, no DTCS. I will pull the pan and test the solenoid. The guy who built my trans put an adjustable pressure switch in it, has the goofy wire nuts splicing it in.
I can manually shift it 1-2-3-4 and 4-3-2-1 fine, if I put it in OD and try it 1-2 fine then acts up trying to get 2-3
I can manually shift it 1-2-3-4 and 4-3-2-1 fine, if I put it in OD and try it 1-2 fine then acts up trying to get 2-3
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I asked Dynamic396 and CarlsonAuto for help; CarlsonAuto researched it on the "Transmission Rebuilders Network Worldwide" and found this:
I trnw'd it, 2-3 shift solenoid, check ball capsule leak, torn 1-2
accumulator seal, incorrect o-rings on 3-2 solenoid were all similar
complaints and confirmed fixes. There is one with the exact complaint and a
confirmed fix. It was a blown lower v/b gasket.
-------
Looks like I wasn't too far off; hopefully that helps.
I trnw'd it, 2-3 shift solenoid, check ball capsule leak, torn 1-2
accumulator seal, incorrect o-rings on 3-2 solenoid were all similar
complaints and confirmed fixes. There is one with the exact complaint and a
confirmed fix. It was a blown lower v/b gasket.
-------
Looks like I wasn't too far off; hopefully that helps.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
Yeah, boy that's a strange one isn't it!
The only difference between 3rd gear in the OD position and manual 3rd is the overrun clutch being applied in manual 3rd. In a stock valve body, that doesn't even occur until the 2-3 shift is commanded and the 2-3 shift valve actually strokes.
The pressure switch manifold does send a signal to the PCM when D3 oil is present (manual valve in the manual 3rd position). It's possible that something is going on there.
I don't see how a 3-2 downshift solenoid could cause any of this. The 2-3 upshift is unrestricted anyway. All the 3-2 solenoid does is create an orificed bypass so the 3rd accumulator can exhaust faster and get the band applied more quickly in a low speed 3-2 downshift scenario. It shouldn't matter what position the 3-2 control valve is in on a 2-3 upshift.
I know that's not much help, but I think some exploratory surgery is in order. I'd pull the valve body and have a look at the gaskets as was mentioned...
The only difference between 3rd gear in the OD position and manual 3rd is the overrun clutch being applied in manual 3rd. In a stock valve body, that doesn't even occur until the 2-3 shift is commanded and the 2-3 shift valve actually strokes.
The pressure switch manifold does send a signal to the PCM when D3 oil is present (manual valve in the manual 3rd position). It's possible that something is going on there.
I don't see how a 3-2 downshift solenoid could cause any of this. The 2-3 upshift is unrestricted anyway. All the 3-2 solenoid does is create an orificed bypass so the 3rd accumulator can exhaust faster and get the band applied more quickly in a low speed 3-2 downshift scenario. It shouldn't matter what position the 3-2 control valve is in on a 2-3 upshift.
I know that's not much help, but I think some exploratory surgery is in order. I'd pull the valve body and have a look at the gaskets as was mentioned...
Pulled my pan after work today, had some residue in the pan, seemed somewhat normal. My 2-3 solenoid is extremely loose in the valve body. Is this normal? It has a lot more play to it then the solenoid next to it.
When I turn the key on the 2-3 shift solenoid receives ground for a split second and clicks.
I removed the pcm and grounded the soleinod wiring to the transmission, the 2-3 and 3-2 both click when ground is applied.
When I turn the key on the 2-3 shift solenoid receives ground for a split second and clicks.
I removed the pcm and grounded the soleinod wiring to the transmission, the 2-3 and 3-2 both click when ground is applied.
Last edited by white3800camaro; Jun 6, 2013 at 05:58 PM.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I just checked an "old" valve body and didn't notice much difference in the amount of play between the two solenoids. So, I would say a loose 2-3 solenoid is not normal. It might just be the o-rings on the solenoid, but the solenoids are only $12 and any trans shop should have them. If you are near Ann Arbor, I have extra everythings. I also have extra solenoid o-rings.
If that doesn't do it, follow the advice and pull the valve body, but have some new gaskets ready. Was the separator plate replaced during rebuild? If not, get the Transgo Universal one ($25) and drill it; I can give you my recommended hole sizes.
If that doesn't do it, follow the advice and pull the valve body, but have some new gaskets ready. Was the separator plate replaced during rebuild? If not, get the Transgo Universal one ($25) and drill it; I can give you my recommended hole sizes.
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I just checked an "old" valve body and didn't notice much difference in the amount of play between the two solenoids. So, I would say a loose 2-3 solenoid is not normal. It might just be the o-rings on the solenoid, but the solenoids are only $12 and any trans shop should have them. If you are near Ann Arbor, I have extra everythings. I also have extra solenoid o-rings.
If that doesn't do it, follow the advice and pull the valve body, but have some new gaskets ready. Was the separator plate replaced during rebuild? If not, get the Transgo Universal one ($25) and drill it; I can give you my recommended hole sizes.
If that doesn't do it, follow the advice and pull the valve body, but have some new gaskets ready. Was the separator plate replaced during rebuild? If not, get the Transgo Universal one ($25) and drill it; I can give you my recommended hole sizes.
I will probably get a solenoid and try that, you can grab onto it and wiggle it up and down a lot.
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I knew it would be some what looser because there isn't spring tension on it. But I can move it in a circular pattern more then I can with one in an older VB I have laying around.
