Getting my 4l60e rebuilt and a stall. Could use some insight
#21
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I'm a proponent of the load release springs and I know that other builders are too. My reason is to ensure the full clearance between the 3/4 frictions in 1st and 2nd gear. Especially when running very tight clearance. They together exert less than 5 lbs of spring pressure. I know the ATSG manual suggests removing them to improve the 2-3 shift feel, but that assumes the OEM "small" 3rd apply feed hole and OEM line pressure. By the time you greatly increase the 3rd apply feed hole, install a boost valve and/or tune for firmer shifts, and reduce the clutch clearance to .040 (or less) there is no reason to remove them anymore.
(The Sonnax Smart Tech drum comes with longer and firmer springs that they recommend.)
As Dynamic396 mentions, the choice of the 3/4 clutch brand, number of frictions and planned clearance are the most critical concerns.
Also, the pump should be upgraded with a high RPM slide spring and carefully checked for clearance and flatness. Also using a 13 vane rotor.
"Filter bushing" is probably what the filter fits into. That should be replaced with every rebuild and any time the filter feels loose. Rather curious that it is even mentioned.
As I posted about a year ago, I use the Transgo spring kit, but use only about 2/3 of the springs (or alternate, stiff-stock-stiff-stock...) This increases the spring rate by about 75% instead of a a crazy 200% if you use all the springs. I have an imperceptibly fast 2-3 shift with that. However, I am curious what the mentioned "better way" is, as the springs are a pain.
Again, its not just the parts, its in the details of how it is assembled, how the separator plate is drilled, and more.
(The Sonnax Smart Tech drum comes with longer and firmer springs that they recommend.)
As Dynamic396 mentions, the choice of the 3/4 clutch brand, number of frictions and planned clearance are the most critical concerns.
Also, the pump should be upgraded with a high RPM slide spring and carefully checked for clearance and flatness. Also using a 13 vane rotor.
"Filter bushing" is probably what the filter fits into. That should be replaced with every rebuild and any time the filter feels loose. Rather curious that it is even mentioned.
As I posted about a year ago, I use the Transgo spring kit, but use only about 2/3 of the springs (or alternate, stiff-stock-stiff-stock...) This increases the spring rate by about 75% instead of a a crazy 200% if you use all the springs. I have an imperceptibly fast 2-3 shift with that. However, I am curious what the mentioned "better way" is, as the springs are a pain.
Again, its not just the parts, its in the details of how it is assembled, how the separator plate is drilled, and more.
#22
On The Tree
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I will use the load release springs in truck applications, but not for any clearance concerns. That has proven to be a non-issue, even with .023-.025" clearance. I use them to help control the feel of the shift. Even though they are a fairly light set of springs (somewhere in the 5-10 lb range for the set), they do absorb energy during the 2-3 shift and help to control the intensity of the shift. A truck application uses a very low stall converter, so excessive shift intensity can be quite offensive - both to the customer and to the transfer case and running gear.
In a high-stall , high performance application, I leave them out to keep the shift times down.
Yes, the springs are a pain, and completely unnecessary. But, then again, you won't see much in my shop that says Transgo on it. I'm just not a fan... I don't agree with many of their philosophies, and their accumulator springs are of very poor quality. I can't even begin to tell you how many broken Transgo accumulator springs I have thrown away over the years.
As far as the "better way" of controlling centrifugal apply, the best way that I have found is to drill a bleed orifice in the input drum to vent pressure from centrifugal force.
In a high-stall , high performance application, I leave them out to keep the shift times down.
Yes, the springs are a pain, and completely unnecessary. But, then again, you won't see much in my shop that says Transgo on it. I'm just not a fan... I don't agree with many of their philosophies, and their accumulator springs are of very poor quality. I can't even begin to tell you how many broken Transgo accumulator springs I have thrown away over the years.
As far as the "better way" of controlling centrifugal apply, the best way that I have found is to drill a bleed orifice in the input drum to vent pressure from centrifugal force.
#23
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call dana at pro built transmissions the specialize it 4l60 and 700r4 transmissions i built there 725rwhp kit for $958 dollars came this everything you need to rebuilt the entire transmission. they have several kits to choose from depending on what your looking for. they also have a website http://www.700r4l60e.com/ here is the link. hope it helps
#24
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Thank you for detailed information! That is much more useful than the typical "ATSG manual says to leave them out". This will help people make their own decision based on their goals and preferences.