Getting my 4l60e rebuilt and a stall. Could use some insight
#1
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Hi, im getting my trans rebuilt and I wanted to know if there are any other parts you guys would recomend me getting that arent already on the list. This is what the trans guy said he would do for $1700..
Performance Overhaul Kit
Sonnax Performace Pack
Alto Wide 2-4 Carbon Band
Wide Sun Bushing-Sonnax
TCC Regulator Valve
Trans Go Drum Spring Kit
Filter Bushings
Sonnax Stator Bushing
Torrington Bearing Kit
FWD Sprag
Low Roller
Variable Force Motor (EPC)
2 Shift Selenoids
Sun Shell-Sonnax
Reaction Carrier
Bearinf/Carrier Shaft
3-4 Release Springs
Reverse Input Drum
HD 2-3 Shift Valve
Also I am going to get a stall convertor and im thinking about the FTI 3600 stall.. any suggestions or recomendations for a convertor or different stall speed? I have a 2000 ws6 with 100k on it. Mods are lt's, ory, magnaflow cat back, ls6 intake and a lid. I will also be doing 3.73 gears and a tune after I do the trans and gears. H/C will be down the road maybe 2 more years? Please help me out here bc Ive already had the trans rebuilt once and it went in 11, 000 miles. Then the car sat for 2 years and I finally have enough money to fix it the way I want to so any and all info, suggestions and recomendations will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Performance Overhaul Kit
Sonnax Performace Pack
Alto Wide 2-4 Carbon Band
Wide Sun Bushing-Sonnax
TCC Regulator Valve
Trans Go Drum Spring Kit
Filter Bushings
Sonnax Stator Bushing
Torrington Bearing Kit
FWD Sprag
Low Roller
Variable Force Motor (EPC)
2 Shift Selenoids
Sun Shell-Sonnax
Reaction Carrier
Bearinf/Carrier Shaft
3-4 Release Springs
Reverse Input Drum
HD 2-3 Shift Valve
Also I am going to get a stall convertor and im thinking about the FTI 3600 stall.. any suggestions or recomendations for a convertor or different stall speed? I have a 2000 ws6 with 100k on it. Mods are lt's, ory, magnaflow cat back, ls6 intake and a lid. I will also be doing 3.73 gears and a tune after I do the trans and gears. H/C will be down the road maybe 2 more years? Please help me out here bc Ive already had the trans rebuilt once and it went in 11, 000 miles. Then the car sat for 2 years and I finally have enough money to fix it the way I want to so any and all info, suggestions and recomendations will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#3
Moderator
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If your builder has experience with those parts, you should be good to go.
However, sponsors PB and FLT have very similar transmissions for $1500, so $1700 seems a bit high. Now if it includes removing, rebuilding and installing the trans, it is a very good price.
However, sponsors PB and FLT have very similar transmissions for $1500, so $1700 seems a bit high. Now if it includes removing, rebuilding and installing the trans, it is a very good price.
#4
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Well its an extra $255 for the removal, trans fluid and instalation. He is pretty reputable and has been there for 20 years. I guess im paying for a qulity job..?
Last edited by SilverBullet00WS6; 06-11-2013 at 11:07 PM.
#5
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Newbie here and in the same situation as yourself... most shops in my area said they will install same quality parts as above with cheaper convertor with about 2600 stall speed between $1650 to 2000. Thats installed. They claim parts like above are cheap?
What worries me am i really getting what i ask for and we talk about?
Also are they doing the internal modifications that some of the more expensive shops with a reputation say they do?
Right now my mind keeps telling me to go to the shop that has been in business 20 years, multiple magazine writeups, and commanding $3200 installed with convertor, cooler,
for a 500hp transmission? Just dont have all the funds yet?
I was going to purchase one from board sponsor, do job myself remove/ install, but wife was not digging me under car on jack stands. Got two new babies now. I told her i used to do this 20 years ago. She said your not 20 anymore... sorry for the ramble...
Good Luck with whatever you do...
What worries me am i really getting what i ask for and we talk about?
Also are they doing the internal modifications that some of the more expensive shops with a reputation say they do?
Right now my mind keeps telling me to go to the shop that has been in business 20 years, multiple magazine writeups, and commanding $3200 installed with convertor, cooler,
![Guns](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_guns.gif)
I was going to purchase one from board sponsor, do job myself remove/ install, but wife was not digging me under car on jack stands. Got two new babies now. I told her i used to do this 20 years ago. She said your not 20 anymore... sorry for the ramble...
Good Luck with whatever you do...
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#9
TECH Apprentice
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I don't suppose the builder will let you stand there while your transmission is built? I used a local reputable shop and it didn't turn out so good. Now I use a guy in Mcallister that has the absalute best customer service. I paid $1800.00 for the transmission and got most parts ( if not all) that are in the raptor transmission. You can buy the parts yourself. I also used raybestos clutches and the raptor 700 billet servo. I watched him take mine apart and put it back togather and air test and measure clearence ( I'm no transmission builder)
I rebuilt mine before failure the first time and when I got it back it still had a sluggish 2-3 shift and made a clunk sound from 3-2. Last summer I blew (10) pumps or so before my dumb *** put a pressure gauge on it and had 300 psi at idle! No refund. Just got phucked.
The guy I use now charged me a little cash to go through it but still had 2-3&3-2 shift issues.
$1800.00 and that is with new everything inside 5 pinion planets, valve body, and shift kit mods.
I hope it works out for you. Looking back, I wish I had bought a board sponser transmission. They are not perfect but the piece of mind would have been worth it. I'm good now ( I think) but ill always be skeptical of the 60e
I rebuilt mine before failure the first time and when I got it back it still had a sluggish 2-3 shift and made a clunk sound from 3-2. Last summer I blew (10) pumps or so before my dumb *** put a pressure gauge on it and had 300 psi at idle! No refund. Just got phucked.
The guy I use now charged me a little cash to go through it but still had 2-3&3-2 shift issues.
$1800.00 and that is with new everything inside 5 pinion planets, valve body, and shift kit mods.
I hope it works out for you. Looking back, I wish I had bought a board sponser transmission. They are not perfect but the piece of mind would have been worth it. I'm good now ( I think) but ill always be skeptical of the 60e
#10
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Wow that is absolutely terrible :/ thats the part that scares me. I had it rebuilt 11, 000 miles ago.. now doing my second rebuild.. I feel like this guy will rebuild it just fine but like you said irs nice to have that piece of mind especially after this already happened to me. The lvl 4 trans from flt is a little out of my budget though and idt I should go with the lvl 3. Then shipping on a huge transmission cant be cheap -_- and then I still need to figure out the right converter to go with which will be at least $800. ridiculous... thanks I hope I can get this figured out too.
#11
Moderator
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Since I enjoy experimenting with various 4L60E builds, I swapped at least 4 times last year. Got it down to about 5 hours by myself. I consider it a good gym workout. Takes a good 1/2 hour just to jack the car up high enough (an '81 Z28):
![](http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af280/mrvedit/Camaro%20Tech/Trans%20Swap%202012/IMG_1392_zps376b67f4.jpg)
Your wife probably would not like to see you under that.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I just welded up a set of adjustable 36" jack stands to simplify the task.
#12
TECH Apprentice
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They guy I use now is a frequent seller/dealer on the truck site and what sold me on him was a ride in his regular cab short bed AWD converted 408 and 300 N2O. Not a show truck but quick as hell. He builds most transmissions. But he does pride himself on 4l60e ( that's what's in his truck) I stead of N2O it's got a huge turbo now and same transmission. He drives it to Tulsa to race and back to Mcallister. He will build my transmission from now on but, I was in your shoes not long ago and the decision is hard to make.
Piece of mind is worth a lot. I now have piece of mind. I hope you will too. Use some one that has build experience for trucks with 4l60e. Then for a converter, agin, use some one with experience with trucks. CircleD comes to mind for me, although I used PTC and saved a bunch of cash and got a converter that will blow the street tires off my car 1&2.
I really hope all works out for you. Good luck
Piece of mind is worth a lot. I now have piece of mind. I hope you will too. Use some one that has build experience for trucks with 4l60e. Then for a converter, agin, use some one with experience with trucks. CircleD comes to mind for me, although I used PTC and saved a bunch of cash and got a converter that will blow the street tires off my car 1&2.
I really hope all works out for you. Good luck
Last edited by squirlNUTZ; 06-12-2013 at 06:09 PM.
#13
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Damn I bet that thing is a monster! Andyes peace of mind might be worth the extra cash. I have a ls1 with llt's, ory, cat back, lid and an ls6 intake. Im obviously getting the trans rebuilt or buying one from flt and I want to put 3.73 gears in it with a tune and call it a day till next summer. Is there a converter u would suggest for my application? I will be daily driving it 7 months out of the year and I would like to do h/c in a year or two. Ive been interested in the fti 3600 or 3800 but I also just saw circle d's 1e and 2e today and they have me thinking. Any suggestions would be great too. Thank you
#14
TECH Apprentice
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Oh and by the way, I've taken my transmission ( and others ) out on jack stands by harbor rate more time than I can count.
Put the stands up high as you can, remove all you can and before removing crossmember place the jack under the pan ( of course) once the Trans is on the jack and lowered remove the Transmission from the jack and jack the nose high as your jack goes and pull (slide on the ground) the transmission to the driver side and remove from under vehicle. Squirlnutztransam at photo bucket.com has some photos.
I put the rear jack stands on the rear axle tubes so the car will articulate. Use a light ratchet strap to hold the torquearm in place on the Chassi brace ( mine now has a PITA BMR conversion) and long tube Pascetter headers. The passenger side would not clear bell housing. Any more questions I'm happy to help as many others will be.
Put the stands up high as you can, remove all you can and before removing crossmember place the jack under the pan ( of course) once the Trans is on the jack and lowered remove the Transmission from the jack and jack the nose high as your jack goes and pull (slide on the ground) the transmission to the driver side and remove from under vehicle. Squirlnutztransam at photo bucket.com has some photos.
I put the rear jack stands on the rear axle tubes so the car will articulate. Use a light ratchet strap to hold the torquearm in place on the Chassi brace ( mine now has a PITA BMR conversion) and long tube Pascetter headers. The passenger side would not clear bell housing. Any more questions I'm happy to help as many others will be.
#16
TECH Apprentice
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What clutches? Maybe I missed it. Contact a sponsor like RPM, FLT, or perfabuilt and they will be able to explain your options for a " performance over haul kit". The parts that go in need to work together and any of those three will be able to help.
#17
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Im not sure which clutches he is using actually but I tried contacting flt to buy a trans from them and I never got a reply. Called 3 times and emailed them.
Im just hoping this guy is a good rebuilder.
Im just hoping this guy is a good rebuilder.
#18
TECH Apprentice
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http://m.rpmtransmissions.com/contact.html
1-800-406-1109
http://www.performabuilt.com/gm%20pe...d%20truck.html
1-888-744-6542
1-800-406-1109
http://www.performabuilt.com/gm%20pe...d%20truck.html
1-888-744-6542
#19
On The Tree
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There are some odd items in that list that I would never use in a build for a car like yours.
Why is he putting load release springs in there in the first place, let alone making you pay for new ones? They are not cheap...and should not be in there.
There is no mention of what 3-4 setup he's planning on using.
What is he doing to the pump? Boost valve? Slide spring? Pump rotor?
What is a filter bushing?
The Transgo spring kit is a total waste of time and money and will kill your 2-3 shift times. The intended purpose for the springs is to ward off centrifugal apply of the 3-4 clutch at high rpm. There are far better ways to deal with that...
Just my opinion, but I've done this several thousand times...
Why is he putting load release springs in there in the first place, let alone making you pay for new ones? They are not cheap...and should not be in there.
There is no mention of what 3-4 setup he's planning on using.
What is he doing to the pump? Boost valve? Slide spring? Pump rotor?
What is a filter bushing?
The Transgo spring kit is a total waste of time and money and will kill your 2-3 shift times. The intended purpose for the springs is to ward off centrifugal apply of the 3-4 clutch at high rpm. There are far better ways to deal with that...
Just my opinion, but I've done this several thousand times...
#20
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There are some odd items in that list that I would never use in a build for a car like yours.
Why is he putting load release springs in there in the first place, let alone making you pay for new ones? They are not cheap...and should not be in there.
There is no mention of what 3-4 setup he's planning on using.
What is he doing to the pump? Boost valve? Slide spring? Pump rotor?
What is a filter bushing?
The Transgo spring kit is a total waste of time and money and will kill your 2-3 shift times. The intended purpose for the springs is to ward off centrifugal apply of the 3-4 clutch at high rpm. There are far better ways to deal with that...
Just my opinion, but I've done this several thousand times...
Why is he putting load release springs in there in the first place, let alone making you pay for new ones? They are not cheap...and should not be in there.
There is no mention of what 3-4 setup he's planning on using.
What is he doing to the pump? Boost valve? Slide spring? Pump rotor?
What is a filter bushing?
The Transgo spring kit is a total waste of time and money and will kill your 2-3 shift times. The intended purpose for the springs is to ward off centrifugal apply of the 3-4 clutch at high rpm. There are far better ways to deal with that...
Just my opinion, but I've done this several thousand times...