Is my transmission getting too hot????
#1
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I have a 5.3 and 4l60E swapped s10. Stock motor except 206/212 cam, stock converter and transmission. Using the stock s10 4.3 radiator cooler, no external cooler. In the tune I dropped shift times to .250 across the board, raised shift pressure about 10% and raised line pressure/desired torque approximately 10% IIRC.
I have a 45 mile commute and in the morning on the way to work at approximately 75* ambient, trans temp as scanned with torque pro app and bluetooth adapter will get up in the 185-190 range. That seems fine to me, but on the way home, 90-100 ambient with the a/c cranked, it will get up to the 210-220 range.
I think 220 is the highest it would ever really get short of hot lapping it, as once it gets up that high it kindof flat lines. And if I roll into town and slow down, it will cool off just a bit.
Coolant temp is 195-197 in the morning and around 205 after work with the a/c on.
Fluid doesn't really smell burnt, but it is a little darker than I would expect.
Is this normal for a stock 5.3 or ls1/4l60e combo?
Should I put the shift and line pressures back to stock and see if it cools down?
Thanks for any help.
I have a 45 mile commute and in the morning on the way to work at approximately 75* ambient, trans temp as scanned with torque pro app and bluetooth adapter will get up in the 185-190 range. That seems fine to me, but on the way home, 90-100 ambient with the a/c cranked, it will get up to the 210-220 range.
I think 220 is the highest it would ever really get short of hot lapping it, as once it gets up that high it kindof flat lines. And if I roll into town and slow down, it will cool off just a bit.
Coolant temp is 195-197 in the morning and around 205 after work with the a/c on.
Fluid doesn't really smell burnt, but it is a little darker than I would expect.
Is this normal for a stock 5.3 or ls1/4l60e combo?
Should I put the shift and line pressures back to stock and see if it cools down?
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by Bowtie316; 07-09-2013 at 07:46 AM.
#3
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That is too high in my opinion. I recently put in an SS4000 converter and installed a Hayden 679 cooler bypassing the radiator. I also tapped the pan to install a temp sensor and running this setup I am seeing no more than 150 or so in traffic and 140 or less running interstate miles. I would advise an additional cooler as soon as you can as they are cheap insurance against burning up a tranny.
#4
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The temps are not really super excessive based on your coolant temp assuming your still running through the cooler in the radiator with no additional cooling you can expect the trans temp to be a bit higher than the engine coolant temp. I would advise adding an external cooler as was mentioned. Lowering your line pressure or shift points will have no effect on temperature.
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#5
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Thanks for the replies. I agree with 180*, and I feel that this combo is running hotter than I like but I wasn't sure if it was normal. Sounds like it is to be expected.
So in looking for a aftermarket trans cooler, it looks like pretty much all of them are setup for rubber hose and hose clamps. I don't like the idea of that, is that how most people do it. Does someone make one with AN fittings or pipe thread?
So in looking for a aftermarket trans cooler, it looks like pretty much all of them are setup for rubber hose and hose clamps. I don't like the idea of that, is that how most people do it. Does someone make one with AN fittings or pipe thread?
#7
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Originally Posted by Bowtie316
So in looking for a aftermarket trans cooler, it looks like pretty much all of them are setup for rubber hose and hose clamps. I don't like the idea of that, is that how most people do it. Does someone make one with AN fittings or pipe thread?
If you're concerned about hose/clamp popping off the cooler, then you have an excessive pressure problem, this will cause the converter to balloon slightly and cause wear on the engine crank main/thrust bearing.
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#8
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If you can keep the fluid temp below 170F it will have longer life (as will the trans).
Yes, 1/2" pipe thread, have a look at B&M 70266 and 70274.
If you're concerned about hose/clamp popping off the cooler, then you have an excessive pressure problem, this will cause the converter to balloon slightly and cause wear on the engine crank main/thrust bearing.
Yes, 1/2" pipe thread, have a look at B&M 70266 and 70274.
If you're concerned about hose/clamp popping off the cooler, then you have an excessive pressure problem, this will cause the converter to balloon slightly and cause wear on the engine crank main/thrust bearing.
It's not so much that I'm worried about it popping off, but just that I don't like leaks and clamps tend to leak over time for some reason. I'll just get some extra clamps and put 2 on each connection.
I'm starting to think that my higher trans temp is caused by my radiator being inadequate. It was 102 here yesterday on my way home and coolant temperature was 215-225 cruising through town, luckily we don't have too many 100+ days, but I should probably look into a radiator upgrade.
#9
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Just thought I should update with my results after adding the jegs 60382 coolers, which is a hayden cooler with gates hose btw.
I configured it after the radiator cooler and installed it in front of the condenser.
Yesterday it only got to 160 on my way to work with about 70 degrees ambient, and hit 170 on the way home with the a/c on in about 95 degree ambient. Much more to my liking.
Thanks for the help.
I configured it after the radiator cooler and installed it in front of the condenser.
Yesterday it only got to 160 on my way to work with about 70 degrees ambient, and hit 170 on the way home with the a/c on in about 95 degree ambient. Much more to my liking.
Thanks for the help.
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Guess it's a good thing joecar is a god then. Thanks for all your tuning help over the years, joe!
Glad to hear the updated results, OP. I'm willing to bet if you bypassed the radiator altogether, it would cool even better.
Glad to hear the updated results, OP. I'm willing to bet if you bypassed the radiator altogether, it would cool even better.
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Agreed.
Now, I think OP temps are completely normal for any stock vehicle. However, I prefer my built transmission to run cooler, as beating on them creates excessive heat very quickly, starting lower gives more headway. In anything other then 90+, I see about 120-150. Over that and it will climb to a max of 190ish either sitting and idling or at the track or whatever.
Now, I think OP temps are completely normal for any stock vehicle. However, I prefer my built transmission to run cooler, as beating on them creates excessive heat very quickly, starting lower gives more headway. In anything other then 90+, I see about 120-150. Over that and it will climb to a max of 190ish either sitting and idling or at the track or whatever.