Tru-Cool Tranny Coolers OK?
#1
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Anybody know anything about these? I have heard some good things but I am concerned about how they don't let fluid flow until it reaches a certain temperature. This seems like a good idea but also seems like it could be a disaster waiting to happen. Their description.....
Thicker oil that is below the ideal operating temperature bypasses the cooler through the upper two plates. When the temperature rises, it becomes thin enough to pass through the entire cooler. TRU-COOL's superior heat transfer is efficient & automatic.
No specifics on that temperature though or exactly how it works. So are they good? Bad? Schme?
Thicker oil that is below the ideal operating temperature bypasses the cooler through the upper two plates. When the temperature rises, it becomes thin enough to pass through the entire cooler. TRU-COOL's superior heat transfer is efficient & automatic.
No specifics on that temperature though or exactly how it works. So are they good? Bad? Schme?
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#8
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ooofa, that 40k is a monster. I was looking at the 24K and keeping my factory cooler, having the factory output run into the new coolers input and then have that return t the trans. Maybe spend the extra bucks, get the El Grande and ditch the factory cooler. This is going in my truck btw.
#10
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Thanks. I do all my work at my buddy's metal fab shop so mounting all nice-like should be no problem. Guess I have to look at what the factory cooler lines are. Like what type of connections so I dont have to just run rubber hose, although that is probably fine, but getting ood connections and hose is the better way to go.
If there is a "go to" product I always like to go for it. So when you guys say everybody runs these, that makes life real simple.
Thoughts on why to ditch the factory cooler? And still go through the radiator first? Keeping the factory rad connections in place would make life a lot more simple. I have an all aluminum rad that is 50% thicker than stock if that matters. Truck has a hard time warming up so I have plenty of cooling capacity. (Thermostat must be stuck open, I knew I should have just left the fng factory one in there, waste of time and money changing it now, lol)
If there is a "go to" product I always like to go for it. So when you guys say everybody runs these, that makes life real simple.
Thoughts on why to ditch the factory cooler? And still go through the radiator first? Keeping the factory rad connections in place would make life a lot more simple. I have an all aluminum rad that is 50% thicker than stock if that matters. Truck has a hard time warming up so I have plenty of cooling capacity. (Thermostat must be stuck open, I knew I should have just left the fng factory one in there, waste of time and money changing it now, lol)
#11
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The 40K will have plenty of cooling capacity, so there's no need to run it through the stock cooler which would cause an additional and uneeded pressure drop. Plus, the stock cooler is probably right where you will want to mount the new cooler. Keep is simple, one cooler.
As for running it through the radiator, you can, most don't. I'd say if you live in a cold climate running it through the radiator will help the trans get up to temp faster. Seeing you're in NY, I'd run it through the radiator. The radiator can also help cool the fluid as apparently it comes out of the trans at a fairly high temp, so even though the radiator is hot, it will still have some cooling effect. This is what I read, not from personal experience.
As for running it through the radiator, you can, most don't. I'd say if you live in a cold climate running it through the radiator will help the trans get up to temp faster. Seeing you're in NY, I'd run it through the radiator. The radiator can also help cool the fluid as apparently it comes out of the trans at a fairly high temp, so even though the radiator is hot, it will still have some cooling effect. This is what I read, not from personal experience.
#12
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Simple, right. Agree probably just more of an unnedded pressure drop.
Good point on getting the trans fluid up to temp in cold weather. It was pretty cold here this morning. Again, thermostat appears to be stuck open so my coolant temps never got past 140, and my trans temp got to about 112. Thats a little too cool I think over 20 mile drive. Regardless, trans temp was still lower than coolant with the stock cooler. Hauling 2,500lbs last weekend my coolant stayed around 185, trans temp around 175 or less except up big hills, then it went up to 184 tops. So in general, going through the rad first and then through a small cooler I stayed a solid 10 degrees cooler than engine temp. Replacing the small stocker with a big one should bring an even bigger disparity between engine and trans temp so I think I'm good. I just want to be prepared for warm weather, because if it were 90 degrees out instead of 60 last weekend I would have been running a lot hotter.
Good point on getting the trans fluid up to temp in cold weather. It was pretty cold here this morning. Again, thermostat appears to be stuck open so my coolant temps never got past 140, and my trans temp got to about 112. Thats a little too cool I think over 20 mile drive. Regardless, trans temp was still lower than coolant with the stock cooler. Hauling 2,500lbs last weekend my coolant stayed around 185, trans temp around 175 or less except up big hills, then it went up to 184 tops. So in general, going through the rad first and then through a small cooler I stayed a solid 10 degrees cooler than engine temp. Replacing the small stocker with a big one should bring an even bigger disparity between engine and trans temp so I think I'm good. I just want to be prepared for warm weather, because if it were 90 degrees out instead of 60 last weekend I would have been running a lot hotter.