02 TA Trans problem?
10-29-2013, 10:46 PM
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02 TA Trans problem? Hi all, posted this info in the PCM section a short while back thinking I might have a tuning problem. I've come to the conclusion that my issue is not PCM related so I thought I'd try to find some answers here. Basically, I have an 02 TA with 35K miles, A4. Had some issues with the transmission a couple of years ago, had the trans rebuilt and put in a TCI Streetfighter TC while it was apart. Car had some idle issues for a while, found out I should have gotten the PCM reprogrammed for the newer TC. Got that done back in March of this year, all was well... until now.
Trans seems to "strain" on the 1-2 shift and TC is unlocking at highway speeds. Here is a link to a video of how she is behaving at around 70mph or so:
http://s70.photobucket.com/user/Wyat...a982d.mp4.html
Would sure appreciate some expert advice, do I have another rebuild in my future? Is this a TC going bad or hopefully something easier and less expensive to fix?
Trans seems to "strain" on the 1-2 shift and TC is unlocking at highway speeds. Here is a link to a video of how she is behaving at around 70mph or so:
http://s70.photobucket.com/user/Wyat...a982d.mp4.html
Would sure appreciate some expert advice, do I have another rebuild in my future? Is this a TC going bad or hopefully something easier and less expensive to fix?
11-02-2013, 03:35 PM
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One more piece of info, I am getting a P1870 code. Which tells me the trans is slipping, right? If so, then it seems I have either a failing Torque Convertor or the TCC module needs replacing. I guess I'll go the TCC route first.
11-02-2013, 03:41 PM
#3
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The P1870 code usually means the TCC valve bore in the valve body is worn out. This can be fixed without removing the trans, but requires removing the valve body which might get outside your comfort zone.
There are many threads on P1870 which describe the many options available.
In short:
1. Replace with an on/off TCC valve such as the Fitzall. $20 + labor
2. Rebore the VB for Sonnax oversize PWM TCC valve. $75 + special tools + labor.
3. Replace with used or rebuild valve body. $150 + labor.
There are many threads on P1870 which describe the many options available.
In short:
1. Replace with an on/off TCC valve such as the Fitzall. $20 + labor
2. Rebore the VB for Sonnax oversize PWM TCC valve. $75 + special tools + labor.
3. Replace with used or rebuild valve body. $150 + labor.
11-03-2013, 10:41 AM
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mrvedit, thank you very much for the info! I take it option #1 would be the easiest fix but would it be as reliable?
And now my rant...
I finally found my receipt for the transmission rebuild, had it done Dec 2011. I've put less and 4K miles on it since then. The car only has 35K on it now and I do not abuse it at all -maybe that is the issue!
Frustrating to have these troubles out of such a low mileage and babied car.
And now my rant...
I finally found my receipt for the transmission rebuild, had it done Dec 2011. I've put less and 4K miles on it since then. The car only has 35K on it now and I do not abuse it at all -maybe that is the issue!
Frustrating to have these troubles out of such a low mileage and babied car.
11-03-2013, 03:48 PM
#5
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And now my rant...
I finally found my receipt for the transmission rebuild, had it done Dec 2011. I've put less and 4K miles on it since then. The car only has 35K on it now and I do not abuse it at all -maybe that is the issue! Frustrating to have these troubles out of such a low mileage and babied car.
I finally found my receipt for the transmission rebuild, had it done Dec 2011. I've put less and 4K miles on it since then. The car only has 35K on it now and I do not abuse it at all -maybe that is the issue!
Frustrating to have these troubles out of such a low mileage and babied car.
11-03-2013, 05:48 PM
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#1 is the option nearly everyone on this forum takes. It is actually more reliable and most performance torque converters recommend it. The only "difference" is that you will feel lockup engage like a 5th gear. I and many others prefer that. GM created the PWM TCC for those applications where the customer is not supposed to feel anything.
Unfortunately many rebuilds do not include a thorough rebuild of the valve body. If you want to do it yourself, we can help you; figure on 4-5 hours for a newbie. (And you will learn a lot.) A trans shop will probably charge you 2 hours labor for options #1 or #3, but much more for #2.
Unfortunately many rebuilds do not include a thorough rebuild of the valve body. If you want to do it yourself, we can help you; figure on 4-5 hours for a newbie. (And you will learn a lot.) A trans shop will probably charge you 2 hours labor for options #1 or #3, but much more for #2.
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11-05-2013, 09:22 PM
#8
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No, you do not want to put the older stock valve into a newer valve body as there are other changes to the "plumbing".
The Transgo HD2 shiftkit, the Sonnax Performance Pack all include a replacement for the troublesome stock TCC valve. Like the Fitzall valve, they all turn the TCC valve from PWM operation into on/off operation.
Since you plan to remove the valve body and replace the valve, you will find the Transgo HD2 instructions helpful and someone posted them here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
Page 3, step 1 is the HD2's replacement of the TCC valve.
Critical steps while installing the valve body are putting the check ***** in the right place (hold them with Vaseline) and putting the different length bolts in the correct positions. See Page 4 and 4 of the instructions.
The Transgo HD2 shiftkit, the Sonnax Performance Pack all include a replacement for the troublesome stock TCC valve. Like the Fitzall valve, they all turn the TCC valve from PWM operation into on/off operation.
Since you plan to remove the valve body and replace the valve, you will find the Transgo HD2 instructions helpful and someone posted them here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
Page 3, step 1 is the HD2's replacement of the TCC valve.
Critical steps while installing the valve body are putting the check ***** in the right place (hold them with Vaseline) and putting the different length bolts in the correct positions. See Page 4 and 4 of the instructions.
12-22-2013, 12:23 PM
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Finally got around to dropping the pan. Found this:
Assuming this came out of the valve body, which can't be good? Think this requires a new valve body? If so, is it a pretty straight forward swap?
Assuming this came out of the valve body, which can't be good? Think this requires a new valve body? If so, is it a pretty straight forward swap?
12-22-2013, 02:10 PM
#10
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I assume that is a loose check ball.
It could be an extra one that someone dropped, forgot about and replaced. Or it could be one of the 7 that are in the valve body or the one in the case by the 3-4 accumulator.
No reason to think the valve body is damaged.
Using the previously linked HD2 kit instructions for guidance, I would suggest carefully dropping the valve body straight down so that the check ***** stay in position. Then you can determine if one is missing and which one. Worst case, just count how many fall out of the valve body. The 8th check ball is above the separator and drops out when you remove the last two bolts holding the separator plate to the case.
With the valve body out, I would still suggest fixing the 1870 code with either a shift kit or the Fitzall valve. At a minimum, also have new separator plate gaskets handy. Better, spend the $25 for the Transgo 46-PLT-96 universal separator plate and drill it according to the HD2 instructions even if you don't install the shift kit.
Carefully follow the HD2 instructions for the check ball locations -AND- for installing the various length valve body bolts in their correct position. For assembly use Vaseline to hold the check ***** in position; do not use grease.
It could be an extra one that someone dropped, forgot about and replaced. Or it could be one of the 7 that are in the valve body or the one in the case by the 3-4 accumulator.
No reason to think the valve body is damaged.
Using the previously linked HD2 kit instructions for guidance, I would suggest carefully dropping the valve body straight down so that the check ***** stay in position. Then you can determine if one is missing and which one. Worst case, just count how many fall out of the valve body. The 8th check ball is above the separator and drops out when you remove the last two bolts holding the separator plate to the case.
With the valve body out, I would still suggest fixing the 1870 code with either a shift kit or the Fitzall valve. At a minimum, also have new separator plate gaskets handy. Better, spend the $25 for the Transgo 46-PLT-96 universal separator plate and drill it according to the HD2 instructions even if you don't install the shift kit.
Carefully follow the HD2 instructions for the check ball locations -AND- for installing the various length valve body bolts in their correct position. For assembly use Vaseline to hold the check ***** in position; do not use grease.