Stall with no cooler!
Stall with no cooler! First off I know I should have a cooler with my new yank ss3600, ran out of time on rented lift combined with fact that B&M 70724 cooler was huge and required modification to fit on the car. Is there any safe guard such as check engine light if trans gets too hot? I'm only driving about 30 miles on highway at a time to work, keeping my fans on high just to help stock cooler. I would prefer not to ruin my new $2000 transmission, I have a digital gauge for trans on the way...thanks guys
I have a smaller 2800 converter, and ran it with no extra cooler for a while. I was worried about trans temp, so I bought a gauge and a medium sized cooler. The gauge came first, so I hooked it up to see what my temps were, 160ish normal highway and 180 spirited. After the cooler they dropped 25-30 degrees each.
I wouldn't be to worried about it, just be careful until you get a gauge. Then decide how big of a cooler you need.
I wouldn't be to worried about it, just be careful until you get a gauge. Then decide how big of a cooler you need.
on yanks website they have q & a and at the end they say with their converters for a street car you dont need a cooler. most web guys will tell you its good insurance. i have an aluminum trans pan already & when i add a new stall this winter im going with a b & m cooler. (why not?). im going with the smaller #264
You should be ok in the short run additional heat could be a loger term issue. Ia would not worry about it in the immediate time but would try and get one on it ASAP it is indeed good insurance.
Frank
Frank
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
We just had a thread where the OP had a 3600 or 4000 converter and determined his trans had hit 300F because of no cooler. We decided it was likely smoked.
No cooler => No drag racing for you.
I have no idea how accurate this is, but according to http://www.lifeautomotive.com/techni.../default.asp#3
Temperate versus expected life of a trans
175°F = 100,000+ miles
190°F = 90,000 miles
210°F = 55,000 miles (Pressure Drops)
230°F = 25,000 miles (Valves Stick)
250°F = 17,000 miles (Varnish Forms)
270°F = 4000 miles (Seals & Clutches Burn)
300°F + = TRANSMISSION FAILURE
No cooler => No drag racing for you.
I have no idea how accurate this is, but according to http://www.lifeautomotive.com/techni.../default.asp#3
Temperate versus expected life of a trans
175°F = 100,000+ miles
190°F = 90,000 miles
210°F = 55,000 miles (Pressure Drops)
230°F = 25,000 miles (Valves Stick)
250°F = 17,000 miles (Varnish Forms)
270°F = 4000 miles (Seals & Clutches Burn)
300°F + = TRANSMISSION FAILURE
Yea I def wouldn't drag race with no cooler, that's asking for trouble...I did how ever install a digital gauge and trans temp is holding at 160-170 on the highway and about 180 in the city. It's my only car now til I purchase a winter car, but I only do highway driving to work. Installing a cooler is going to be my first order of business come spring time because I wanna see what the stall does to lower my current 12.5 quarter mile, hoping for 11.999999999.....That chart is helpful though thanks.
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I installed a Hayden 679 in front of the condenser when I put in my Yank SS4000 converter. At this time I decided to bypass the radiator all together. I also went to a TCI deep cast alum pan and tapped the pan for a sender. In the dead of summer I only went above 140* when my converter was unlocking at interstate speeds. On some cool nights I drove 50+ miles on the interstate at 120-130*.
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Verdad Gallardo ^^^nice...I have a B&M 70274 which is the monster and since i have an SLP CAI it wouldn't fit and I was in a hurry to get it out of my buddy's garage...I may sell that cooler and go with the next size down...there is such a case of the trans temp being too cool, I believe below 140-150 isn't good for performance, I read that in a tech article somewhere
Id take out the passenger side headlight assembly and see if you can fit it up-right in behind the fog light opening.
IMO, with the large size of the cooler and mounting it away from the engine compartment heat it should work decent in that location, an it'll get some air flow once the car is moving. Also another option is the B&M #70298 in that location, which would work good.
IMO, with the large size of the cooler and mounting it away from the engine compartment heat it should work decent in that location, an it'll get some air flow once the car is moving. Also another option is the B&M #70298 in that location, which would work good.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 2, 2013 at 04:10 PM.
Unless you can post some tech results otherwise, I am a firm believer that the cooler your trans stays the longer it will last. Hence why I took the radiator out of the loop and run 140* max in the summer.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Since you are in MS, you don't see the cold temps that Wildcamaro sees in PA. Obviously you don't want to go WOT when the trans is below freezing as the oil viscosity will be thicker and clearances tighter. So I think you are both right - cooler is better, but only down to some point; maybe somewhere between 100-140F.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 151
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From: So Cal
actually you do not want the trans over cooling. they like to have a certain amount of heat in them.
Here's the tech article I was basing my info on...
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...s/viewall.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...s/viewall.html
Yea I can def tell, i am recording trans temp with a scan gauge 2 which is pretty cool, not sure where the PCM is reading temps as far as the trans goes, haven't been over 175 but I'm sure that's because the weather has been 30-40F as of late...that's good to see real world results rather than people just stating opinions...
