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Anyone know where to get better info on hooking up the supermatic controller for the 4L65E that came with my connect and cruise engine/trans package? The instruction sheet is minimal and says that more detailed information can be obtained from the CD that came with it. I loaded it and only get a run-time error message. The CD is titled GM #19257658.
The instructions tell you nothing about how to hook up the brake light connection to unlock the converter, or how to hook up the manual shift wiring.
I'm installing a 430hp LS3 in a '37 Oze. I've got all of the wiring run to the engine and the engine controller mounted under the dash, along with the fuse box and electronic throttle pedal. The supermatic controller is going in the trunk.
I'm not familiar with that controller, but I can tell you this:
* Unlike ancient setups, the brake light does not directly unlock the converter. You need a separate switch on the brake pedal which feeds a signal to the PCM/Controller.
* The harness to the trans contains the wiring to tell the PCM/controller which forward gear the shifter is in. Generally the only wiring from the shifter is the Park/Neutral signal for the safely interlock. Sometimes there is a Reverse signal too.
I found some info that's at least close to what I need, although I've already read a conflict between the few instructions that I have and the ones from Pace Performance (where I bought the engine and trans).
So the GM "Connect and Cruise" package doesn't use a GM PCM/TCU?
It uses the PCS transmission controller?
I read the directions. They say that the TCU does not use the Park/Neutral Safety Switch. That is no surprise, but it probably needs to connect to the PCM or else the engine won't start.
If you are trying to understand "2.2.8 Manual Shift Connection", I wouldn't worry about that now. That only gives you the option of using shift padles or a bump stick in the future.
The guys at Pace say that PCS makes the GM controller. It looks identical, right down to the blue box. They say that the PCS software will communicate with the controller.
What I'm trying to accomplish in the next 2-3 months of the build is to get the car far enough along to drive around my rural neighborhood, but not a street legal car. I really like the idea of electronic shifting through gears 1-4 and want to get that operational with a momentary rocker switch. I'll also need a switch to provide +12 to activate the manual shifting mode.
There's also a street calibration and a performance calibration. Just grounding one wire switches the trans over to the performance setting, according to my instructions. Another instruction says something different:
"A neat feature of the TCU is the ability to change to a completely different calibration at the flick of a switch. This is accomplished by hooking this lead to a dash/console-mounted toggle switch. Run the other switch pole to +12V. The default position (off) will be the Cal A setting. When switched on (+12V), the TCU will change the TCU to operate from the Cal B calibration."
I'm going to assume that the brake light instruction is correct, since I have a wire, labeled brake light. The switch should be normally closed and open upon braking. IIRC, in the old days, it was the opposite. The brake light switch closed to supply power to the brake lights.
2.2.13 GM Torque Converter Lock-up Release Switch
For smoother operation, it's suggested that the wire labeled brake light be run to a factory brake pedal switch (NC) so the TCC will unlock when you apply the brakes.
The guys at Pace say that PCS makes the GM controller. It looks identical, right down to the blue box. They say that the PCS software will communicate with the controller.
What I'm trying to accomplish in the next 2-3 months of the build is to get the car far enough along to drive around my rural neighborhood, but not a street legal car. I really like the idea of electronic shifting through gears 1-4 and want to get that operational with a momentary rocker switch. I'll also need a switch to provide +12 to activate the manual shifting mode.
There's also a street calibration and a performance calibration. Just grounding one wire switches the trans over to the performance setting, according to my instructions. Another instruction says something different:
"A neat feature of the TCU is the ability to change to a completely different calibration at the flick of a switch. This is accomplished by hooking this lead to a dash/console-mounted toggle switch. Run the other switch pole to +12V. The default position (off) will be the Cal A setting. When switched on (+12V), the TCU will change the TCU to operate from the Cal B calibration."
I'm going to assume that the brake light instruction is correct, since I have a wire, labeled brake light. The switch should be normally closed and open upon braking. IIRC, in the old days, it was the opposite. The brake light switch closed to supply power to the brake lights.
2.2.13 GM Torque Converter Lock-up Release Switch
For smoother operation, it's suggested that the wire labeled brake light be run to a factory brake pedal switch (NC) so the TCC will unlock when you apply the brakes.
Those guys at the GM Assistance Hot Line just told me to connect the "cal A/B" wire to ground. You also say that. I'm confused by your comment about "another neat feature" Have you been running with the CAL A/B wire connected to +12VDC, or is there a different wire that needs +12VDC??
This is the last step in finishing my 1993 Silverado engine swap out to an LS3/430HP 4L65E. I bought the truck new in Oct of 1992. Ordered it with a 3:73 POSITRAC, GLAD I DID.I have been driving it some, (547 miles) and changed the oil twice, and man it was black. Runs good though. You guys seem to be the best source of knowledge I've found, any help is greatly appreciated.
I know this is an old post, DaveS are you still around? I remember you from the FactoryFive forums.
I built their ‘33 Hotrod and bought the LS3 and 4L65e from GM Connect and Cruise.
The Supermatic software directions aren’t that great. I’m having problems with the torque converter not locking up. It rarely locks up.
I do have the brake wire connected to the brake switch so it does get 12 volts when I step on the brake.
Anybody have some suggestions on why it doesn’t lock up? I’ve taken it up to triple digits, still no lockup.
It’s only got 600 miles on it.
UPDATE: See post 15 for the fix.
Last edited by JimLev; Dec 17, 2023 at 07:51 PM.
Reason: Added info
I don't know anything about the Supermatic software but with the factory GM system the brake switch has two switches built into the one. One part of the switch works the brake lights that supplies 12 volts to the lights when the brake pedal is depressed. The other part of the switch supplies 12 volts to the PCM when the pedal is in the up position and cuts the 12 volt supply when the pedal is depressed. This is the part of the switch that GM uses to control torque converter lock up. By controlling the supply voltage this way, the converter is unlocked when applying the brakes. I hope this helps.
bbond105, thanks for the info.
My brake light switch supplies 12 volts to the brake lights AND the TCU from the same switch terminal when I step on the brakes.
It was working wired this way before. When in lockup if I touched the brake pedal (foot still on the gas) just enough to turn the brake lights on I’d see the RPM jump up 1100 RPM so it was unlocking then.
The software has various screens, the overview screen shows all the inputs on the right side (Current Modes) which all indicates the switch inputs are being read properly.
The other screens are for adjusting shift speeds up/down and line pressure. I haven’t touched the line pressures.
This morning I took it on a 6 mile drive to meet some car guys for breakfast. I hooked up the computer so I could see what the tranny was doing.
It shifted thru all the gears like it was suppose to, the converter locked up, the TCC light on the computer screen lit up.
An hour later I started home, the converter wouldn’t lock up. I’m lost, it works and then it doesn’t.
This morning I took it on a 6 mile drive to meet some car guys for breakfast. I hooked up the computer so I could see what the tranny was doing.
It shifted thru all the gears like it was suppose to, the converter locked up, the TCC light on the computer screen lit up.
An hour later I started home, the converter wouldn’t lock up. I’m lost, it works and then it doesn’t.
My LS10 swap is doing the same thing, I noticed that when I don't get TCC I don't have the command either. I am going to a different tune for other reasons and hopefully that fixes it.
I was using the factory tune that came with the tranny.
I’ve also modify shift speeds and saved it to a different file name.
Didn’t work. I’ll keep working at it and post what I find.
I’ve spoken with the GM Tech guys, but most of them didn’t seem to know much about the software.
Tranzman, I changed some shift points yesterday and got the converter to lock up. The tranny seems it needs to be hot before it will lockup.
I had to be going about 40 before it locked up. I’m going to lower the lockup speed later today, will report back with info.
Here’s what I’m using now.
Forgot to mention in the setup where you enter the diff ratio (mine is 3.55) I changed it to 3.73 which the directions said to do if you want the shifts to happen at a little higher speed.
Tranzman, I changed some shift points yesterday and got the converter to lock up. The tranny seems it needs to be hot before it will lockup.
I had to be going about 40 before it locked up. I’m going to lower the lockup speed later today, will report back with info.
Here’s what I’m using now.
Forgot to mention in the setup where you enter the diff ratio (mine is 3.55) I changed it to 3.73 which the directions said to do if you want the shifts to happen at a little higher speed.
Glad your getting somewhere. Factory setting is to wait for closed loop status for TCC, they also restrict it to above certain MPH as you have shown. So I would make an assumption that they are programmed to a certain temp & for lock up to enable.
My 2004 Trailblazer 4.2L gets TCC & 4th around 35-40mph. It lugs the motor and rpm is around 1100. If my S10 does that I will limit 4th to engage around 48-49mph.
Thank you for sharing this learning curve, It will help others.
To close the loop on this thread I found I have a vacuum leak on the back of the manifold tube that went to the fuel pressure regulator which kept the fuel pressure higher than it should have been, This prevented the engine from going into close loop because it was running rich, which prevented the converter from locking up.
Once I fixed the vacuum leak it now locks up all the time.
Last edited by JimLev; Dec 17, 2023 at 07:44 PM.
Reason: Fix typo
Congrats on getting it SOLVED, and not giving up!!!
A stupid amount of People would have reacted very poorly in the same situation.
They would be cursing-out the Transmission/ Torque-Converter and screaming Warranty/ DEFECTIVE Transmission!
When all along the issue was something so basic as a small Vacuum Leak pertaining to Fuel Enrichment/ Injection.
NOTHING to do with the Transmission.
Enjoy your Ride, and Thank you for following-up on the Thread!
Thanks, after dicking around with the tranny software and not getting anywhere a friend had mentioned that if it was running rich it wouldn’t go into close loop.
My MPG wasn’t great (mostly right foot problem) and the exhaust tips were pretty black.
That lead to the looking for a vac leak.
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supermatic controller hookup 
