alright so the other day i finally decided to try and drive my project up the street but did not go well. did not have OD, D and sorta had 2nd, 1st. reverse worked fine. kinda acts like if there was no fluid in it but its full according to my dipstick. trans was rebuilt by a shop ive used several times with no issues. i seated the torque converter and when i bolted up the trans to the motor there was like a maybe 1/2" or so gap between the torque converter and the flexplate. my dumbass decided to just bolt it up anyways. could i have pulled the converter out of the pump?

i didnt get to try and pull a hose off of my trans cooler to see if it was pumping. was also goin to try and pull the starter off and see if maybe i can spin and push the converter into the pump and maybe add some washers and see if thatll help. if not guess i gotta pull it all out again.

what i got:

2001 5.3l
2000 z28 4l60e
2000 z28 converter
dished flexplate

I did try searching and this is why im posting cause i couldnt find an answer.

any help is greatly appreciated.

 

The 1/2" gap and your symptoms indicate the pump is not fully engaged.
If really 1/2" I am surprised it is engaged at all.
The optimum gap is 1/8" +/- 1/16"; so no more than 3/16" and even 1/4" is pushing it.

Go ahead and try adding some washers to get the gap down. I suggest using calipers to measure the washers to get three bundles of the same thickness. You can wrap masking tape around e.g. 3+ washers to hold them together as one unit for easier assembly.

Hopefully you didn't damage the rotor in the trans pump.

 

thanx for the help

i knew this part "The optimum gap is 1/8" +/- 1/16"; so no more than 3/16" and even 1/4" is pushing it." i just didnt know how far in the converter goes in to engage the pump.

i got a bunch of 1/8" washers that im gonna try. gonna super glue some together and see.

do you think itll cause an issue with the converter snout into the crank?

 

ok so i was able to mess with the car a little today. added spacers 2 1/8" washers in between the T/C and flexplate. hooked up hptuners and read the DTC's as it was idling and got a couple codes. i think i might have wired something wrong on the trans. got a code p0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit High Input (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature).

i also talked to my trans guy that built my trans and he said hell have one of his guys come over and try to see if he can tell whats goin on.


would this cause the issue i explained?


i found this link which has a pretty good explanation of things.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20...%205.7%20L.htm



heres all my codes off hptuners. im still in the rocess of finishing up the wiring plus its goin to be tuned open loop speed density.

[] P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0713 - Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit High Input (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P1635 - 5 Volt Reference Circuit (Pending) (Current) (Immature)
[] P1637 - Generator L-Terminal Circuit (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P1638 - Generator F-Terminal Circuit (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P1639 - 5 Volt Reference 2 Circuit (Pending) (Current) (Immature)


Continuous Tests
Misfire: Complete
Fuel System: Complete
Comprehensive Component: Complete


Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Complete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Complete
Secondary Air System: n/a
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Complete
EGR System: Complete

 

also i just found out the trans is pumping like a boss. dont ask me how i know. lol

 

First, I hope you added three spacers, not "2 1/8", as there are three converter bolts.

Your symptoms were a bit vague and therefore difficult to tell how much of your problem is due to the codes. The P0102 and P0703 really need to be taken care as they will effect how the PCM controls the trans.

This link gives more detailed about the 4L60E wiring:

http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/wiring.html

This thread might be of interest too:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lems-help.html #4

 

i added 2 washers to each bolt. sorry.

im not running a maf and was told not to turn it to "no error reported" cause itll cause an issue.

basically 4th and 3rd i dont get anything (the car will buck when i put it in gear but the motor just revs and car doesnt move), 2nd itll sorta move, 1st itll move maybe about 2-5mph and reverse will move about the same speed as 1st.

thanx for those links. that megashift one is pretty good.

 

think i found out my issue!!!!

had

47 YEL/BLK 1223 Transmission Shift Solenoid B

and

51 YEL/BLK 1227 Transmission Temperature Sensor Signal

crossed. swapped them and i have drive now. just got to see if itll go up the street now.

 

went up the street but had another issue happen. never ends.

 

Sounds like you are making progress anyway.
Switched wires to the trans is going to give strange symptoms; hopefully nothing was damaged by that.