truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

it's possible with a tranny jack and some upper body strength

much much easier in the days of the powerglide and the th350

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

Well, weekend came and went and only thing I managed to get off the car was the exhaust and passenger side coil pack bracket, that side was a real PITA since I have big hands hard to get in the back to get the last bolt off the manifold and bracket. Managed to get the exhaust removed back to the single pipe so factory Y and manifolds are out, including the thin bracket that was under the Y pipe..(wavy bracket)

Looks like ill be replacing the valve stem seals while im in there. I removed the EGR setup, plugged the intake with the freeze plug method for now until we get the new intake.

Since its colder now and dark by the time I get home, I wont be getting much done under the car, so may work from above in the engine bay, still need to remove the hose that runs along the driverside and down into the bumper.

can anyone tell me, since I disconnected the EGR harness and will eventually get that tuned out, what to do with the lose connection?

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

Opps, forgot to ask also, I have the tall truck jack stands, is that tall enough to use when I get under there to remove the trans? I believe they extend to 22" or 24" but if I use my trans jack, im guessing I need more room to slide the trans out?

I was planning on double support of the car while im under it.. 4 truck jack stands supporting the car and then some 2x12 wood stacks under all 4 tires as added security.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You can get the tranny out with 4 x 6 ton stands but its still tight. For a rear main seal you can just leave the trans centered in the tunnel and push it back outta your way. Taking it completely out requires the car to be higher.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

Well I'm replacing the torque converter, flexplate rear main seal trans pan and gasket with new pan with plug to change fluid later on. So would pushing back into tunnel allow me working room for all that.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yes........

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

cool, so then really no need to drop the trans out completely unless I want to detail under the car
at this point im just going to do whats needs to be done, pressure wash all the nasty crap off the trans and motor so I can check for new leaks after everything is done.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

And thanks to everyone that has provided suggestions and info on what im to expect when I do the job.. If the forecast stays like they say it will be, then this weekend is when im going to start the work...hopefully get a lot done on the car over the weekend.. I have a long list of items to do, which I hope to get done, but im not going to rush it and do what I can to get the car back on the road...

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

Well had a great weekend with the weather and car.. nothing like working on your car without breaking a sweat or freezing your butt off.. Ill have to post the pics later, but I could have saved myself a lot of $$$$ if I would have done more inspection after locating the ticking... Saturday after getting the car up on blocks and few 2x12 under each tire I began the process of taking things off. Following the steps found else where and suggestions from members here I found the source of the ticking, and it wasn't a cracked flexplate. once I removed the inspection cover to begin working on the TC bolts, the first bolt that was exposed was the cause of the problem, it had backed out of the hole and was a hair from the trans case.. im sure if I would found that before spending all the money we could have had the car back on the road for no money... That was the bad news..

The good news is now that everything is apart I get to make all the mods I bought anyway.. since I already had the parts and the trans was already out and away from the motor, I wasn't turning back now, so I pushed forward and got the trans out and under the car. Let me back up, before dropping the trans, I emptied it of fluids, removed the old pan, wiped and cleaned any more fluid from the case and installed a new pan with plug to change fluids later on. Now I installed the new pan and gasket and tighten the bolts snug, but noticed the next morning that it was leaking in the corner where the dip stick goes, but it wasn't coming from above, it was coming from the pan/gasket corner.. since there is other things in that corner that could be the leak, what if anything should I look for? I mean its a new gasket and pan, I can torque to spec and see, but I drained the transmission, where could more fluid be coming from?
So Saturday was spent removing the trans, replacing the rear main seal, installed the flexplate everything torqued as I went to not leave anything undone.

Sunday I started a little earlier and had brother in law help and we focused on the motor mounts, got the driver side done, wasn't that easy, but done. Started on the passenger side and got it off to drill out and install the new mounts, will drill out tonight and get ready to install ASAP, but that was a pain having to remove the ac compressor to get it off..

plans now are to get the pass side mount back in, then install the headers, we also removed the fuel rails and injectors in preparation for the LS6 instake install, but main goal is the lower end of the car so that I don't have to keep putting it up in the air to work under it..