Broken intermediate snap ring 4L80E
06-18-2014, 09:22 PM
#41
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Seal 622 is correct to remove for dual feed.
The hole you see is stock and is there to drain the clutch pack area of the drum. You need to put a hole BELOW the piston.
Shown here:
We go a little bigger than .030" and it's not a big deal to put the HD springs on the direct drum in the 4L80E.
The hole you see is stock and is there to drain the clutch pack area of the drum. You need to put a hole BELOW the piston.
Shown here:
We go a little bigger than .030" and it's not a big deal to put the HD springs on the direct drum in the 4L80E.
06-18-2014, 09:26 PM
#42
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Jake: The ring was snapped and laying in the pan.
I'm starting to wonder if since im in here should i replace my clutches and steels with the Borg Warner high energys. Can someone hook me up with a kit that has, at minimum, the forward, intermediate and direct clutches and steels? This service manual is a little vague on what my clearances should be and how I should check them.
I might even consider a 300M input shaft. I'm thinking with the pressure mods, clutches and input shaft my trans "should" be able to handle my setup with slicks. What do you think?
I'm starting to wonder if since im in here should i replace my clutches and steels with the Borg Warner high energys. Can someone hook me up with a kit that has, at minimum, the forward, intermediate and direct clutches and steels? This service manual is a little vague on what my clearances should be and how I should check them.
I might even consider a 300M input shaft. I'm thinking with the pressure mods, clutches and input shaft my trans "should" be able to handle my setup with slicks. What do you think?
Last edited by JDMC5; 06-18-2014 at 09:32 PM.
06-18-2014, 09:49 PM
#43
It's not all that hard to replace the springs. We replace them on some builds depending on application.
Clutch pack clearance rule of thumb is typically .010" per friction. You're pretty safe to use that on all the clutch packs on a 4L80E.
We sell parts/kits as well as complete transmissions. I narrowed the scope of the kits we sell to basically a "complete" kit to build a trans equivalent to our Stage 2. Call Justin at the shop and he can put together a custom kit if needed and handle any billet shafts or other upgraded components.
Clutch pack clearance rule of thumb is typically .010" per friction. You're pretty safe to use that on all the clutch packs on a 4L80E.
We sell parts/kits as well as complete transmissions. I narrowed the scope of the kits we sell to basically a "complete" kit to build a trans equivalent to our Stage 2. Call Justin at the shop and he can put together a custom kit if needed and handle any billet shafts or other upgraded components.
06-19-2014, 10:43 AM
#45
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Yes, I would not hesitate to put in Hi Energies if I had the chance, were I in your position.
By .010" per friction, it means that if you have 6 total frictions in the direct drum, you're looking for about .060" total clearance.
We also offer rebuild kits and billet parts, although I can say that out of any other shop out there that offers transmission rebuild kits, Jake's kits are the only other ones that I personally would have no problem using without changing any parts of the order to something different to suit my preferences.
By .010" per friction, it means that if you have 6 total frictions in the direct drum, you're looking for about .060" total clearance.
We also offer rebuild kits and billet parts, although I can say that out of any other shop out there that offers transmission rebuild kits, Jake's kits are the only other ones that I personally would have no problem using without changing any parts of the order to something different to suit my preferences.
06-19-2014, 01:29 PM
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Yes, I would not hesitate to put in Hi Energies if I had the chance, were I in your position.
By .010" per friction, it means that if you have 6 total frictions in the direct drum, you're looking for about .060" total clearance.
We also offer rebuild kits and billet parts, although I can say that out of any other shop out there that offers transmission rebuild kits, Jake's kits are the only other ones that I personally would have no problem using without changing any parts of the order to something different to suit my preferences.
By .010" per friction, it means that if you have 6 total frictions in the direct drum, you're looking for about .060" total clearance.
We also offer rebuild kits and billet parts, although I can say that out of any other shop out there that offers transmission rebuild kits, Jake's kits are the only other ones that I personally would have no problem using without changing any parts of the order to something different to suit my preferences.
06-19-2014, 01:51 PM
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That said if it comes down to it I would rather it be a little bit tighter than looser. I would go for more than .065" or less than .055" though. The forwards can be a bit tighter than the directs since they're engaged through every forward gear, not as big of a deal there.
06-24-2014, 08:19 PM
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Here is a good reason why not to buy a used trans off craiglist for anything more than core. The ad was originally listed as a 60,000 mile working unit. Here's the OD planetary, I don't have pics of the pump but it looked like a scratched record.
He also told me it was out of a 97-99 6.5 diesel cube van. I ran the numbers and found out it was from a 99 5.7 liter van. Now whether or not it was taken from one and later transplanted into a diesel van or the guy was full if it who knows.
Moral of the story. Don't take someone's word on what they have unless it's a built trans with receipts or from a reliable source. Pull the pan at the very least and only pay core prices unless they can prove it works.
He also told me it was out of a 97-99 6.5 diesel cube van. I ran the numbers and found out it was from a 99 5.7 liter van. Now whether or not it was taken from one and later transplanted into a diesel van or the guy was full if it who knows.
Moral of the story. Don't take someone's word on what they have unless it's a built trans with receipts or from a reliable source. Pull the pan at the very least and only pay core prices unless they can prove it works.
06-24-2014, 08:20 PM
#49
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Here is a good reason why not to buy a used trans off craiglist for anything more than core. The ad was originally listed as a 60,000 mile working unit. Here's the OD planetary, I don't have pics of the pump but it looked like a scratched record.
He also told me it was out of a 97-99 6.5 diesel cube van. I ran the numbers and found out it was from a 99 5.7 liter van. Now whether or not it was taken from one and later transplanted into a diesel van or the guy was full if it who knows.
Moral of the story. Don't take someone's word on what they have unless it's a built trans with receipts or from a reliable source. Pull the pan at the very least and only pay core prices unless they can prove it works.
He also told me it was out of a 97-99 6.5 diesel cube van. I ran the numbers and found out it was from a 99 5.7 liter van. Now whether or not it was taken from one and later transplanted into a diesel van or the guy was full if it who knows.
Moral of the story. Don't take someone's word on what they have unless it's a built trans with receipts or from a reliable source. Pull the pan at the very least and only pay core prices unless they can prove it works.
07-05-2018, 07:47 AM
#50
Prophetic advice I just wanted to say thank you to NorthTexasConverter. You were correct about the Google search part. It's 2018 and I was reinstalling my center support and it would not align properly. After reading the below, I realized I had installed the thicker (wrong) snap ring where the thinner case saver snap ring was supposed to be. Put the correct one in and presto! Perfect fit.
NTC may no longer be active here, but this is why forums such as LS1tech are awesome.
NTC may no longer be active here, but this is why forums such as LS1tech are awesome.
Haha easy there killer, take a deep breath.
All of your problems are very very simple fixes that I can help you solve. I'll post up for future reference again for anyone who may need to read this now or in the future (maybe a random Google search a year or two+ from now). When I tell you this you're going to kick yourself at how easy this is.
You were trying to put in the assembly all wrong...
Here's how you identify the snap rings you're going to be screwing with.
The bottom-most snap ring is often referred to as the case saver. It goes on the bottom most area possible where the case lugs are, right above the low/reverse band. This is a TH400 case and not my picture (except for the crudely done MS Paint additions, that was me) but it's the same as an 80E. Look at where the red arrow is pointing. That's the area you want to put the first ring, right there on the bottom lip. See the blue? Notice the gap in between the (poorly drawn) "lines"? That's where the case saver ring gap should be.
FYI: The case saver snap ring is identified by the fact that it's extremely thin and has pointy ends, not flat tipped. If you took out all 3 of the ones that are installed in the case itself, it's the thinnest one of the three.
All of your problems are very very simple fixes that I can help you solve. I'll post up for future reference again for anyone who may need to read this now or in the future (maybe a random Google search a year or two+ from now). When I tell you this you're going to kick yourself at how easy this is.
You were trying to put in the assembly all wrong...
Here's how you identify the snap rings you're going to be screwing with.
The bottom-most snap ring is often referred to as the case saver. It goes on the bottom most area possible where the case lugs are, right above the low/reverse band. This is a TH400 case and not my picture (except for the crudely done MS Paint additions, that was me) but it's the same as an 80E. Look at where the red arrow is pointing. That's the area you want to put the first ring, right there on the bottom lip. See the blue? Notice the gap in between the (poorly drawn) "lines"? That's where the case saver ring gap should be.
FYI: The case saver snap ring is identified by the fact that it's extremely thin and has pointy ends, not flat tipped. If you took out all 3 of the ones that are installed in the case itself, it's the thinnest one of the three.
